Converter in 2013 Prime Time Tracer 2700RES

[tmckenna]

I've been researching the process of installing an inverter into my 2013 Tracer 2700RES and I noticed that most installation videos tell you to turn off the converter while utilizing inverter power because theres no reason to charge the batteries from their own power.

I've check my breaker box and have no breakers for the converter as far as I can tell. How else would the converter function, and where should I look?

[pianotuna]

tmckenna wrote:


Either way I think I would add the breaker so I have the freedom to control the fridge or the converter individually. I guess its mostly just a piece of mind thing to be honest.

I would just use a switch. Breakers are not intended to be used as switches. My converter draws about 700 watts, when running "flat out".

I used to use the converter before I had a hybrid load support inverter/charger to do "double conversion". I.E. in low power situations, I would plug in just the converter, and then run the rest of the RV from a 2500 watt MSW Cobra inverter.

[tmckenna]

pianotuna wrote:

corvettekent wrote:
Yes, you could add a switch but if it is tied into the fridge it would not be a big deal because the fridge would be on propane when you are using the inverter.

If the OP has 1800 watts of solar he could easily run the fridge on 120 volts.

Thats a good point and definitely something to think about. Either way I think I would add the breaker so I have the freedom to control the fridge or the converter individually. I guess its mostly just a piece of mind thing to be honest.

[pianotuna]

corvettekent wrote:
Yes, you could add a switch but if it is tied into the fridge it would not be a big deal because the fridge would be on propane when you are using the inverter.

If the OP has 1800 watts of solar he could easily run the fridge on 120 volts.

[pianotuna]

tmckenna wrote:
Ive taken a fair amount into consideration.

Most of the batteries that Im looking at have a maximum charge rate of 50 amps. So thats 600 watts at 12V. In terms of solar that basically means that you can use up to 6 panels to charge 1 battery.

3 batteries means I can have up to 1800 watts of solar charging at one time. Which would also be just about enough to maintain the same battery level even while running the Air conditioning.

For now its really just a pipe dream for over prepared off-grid life/travelling, but in theory its pretty solid.

Also, I'm aware that wanting to run AC off a battery setup is mostly unnecessary, but as I said itd be nice to have the option.

If you are serious about running the roof air from an inverter, please consider moving to a 24 or 48 (preferred) volt battery bank.

Magnum does NOT recommend running the roof air from their 3000 watt hybrid inverter/charger.

The similar sized Victron will run the roof air.

I'd go with SiO2 batteries (summer of 2021 for me), instead of Li. They are about 1/2 the price and can be used and charged at -40. One feature they share with Li is not needing to be fully recharged as there is no sulphation.

My roof air, when first run, draws about 1300 watts. After running a few hours that goes up to as much as 1900 watts. So wattage needed for a 13500 BTU A.C. is a "moveable feast".

[corvettekent]

Yes, you could add a switch but if it is tied into the fridge it would not be a big deal because the fridge would be on propane when you are using the inverter.

[tmckenna]

Just removed the breaker box cover and it looks like the converter is tied into my fridge power. Kind of a pain in the butt considering I wouldnt ever really want to switch my fridge off. I think I should add another switch for the battery charger. I know you mentioned that its not up to code but it shouldnt really be a problem in reality correct?

[corvettekent]

I tried fliping off the breaker to my converter but found out that I lost power to my bedroom outlets. My converter was plugged into an outlet so I just unplugged it, and it's been unplugged for seven years now because my solar charges the batteries.

You could also install an inverter/charger and it will take care of the problem.

[tmckenna]

time2roll wrote:
Yes if you have an open slot you can pop in a breaker and have a separate converter circuit. Assuming you power the entire panel you can just switch the converter breaker off as needed.

If you have a 30 amp RV NEC only allows 5 branch circuits. So technically you are not to code. I have 7 so that my rarely used converter or tank heaters can remain off most of the time. Never an issue.

Yes lithium has advantages. Most answers are for a fairly tight budget.

1800 watts is a lot of solar.

I dont have an infinite budget, but Ive done a ton of research and I know that what I'm looking to do isnt cheap.

Also yes, 1800 watts of solar is quite a bit, but I dont plan on using the roof of my camper for anything so I figured its as good a use as any haha

[time2roll]

Yes if you have an open slot you can pop in a breaker and have a separate converter circuit. Assuming you power the entire panel you can just switch the converter breaker off as needed.

If you have a 30 amp RV NEC only allows 5 branch circuits. So technically you are not to code. I have 7 so that my rarely used converter or tank heaters can remain off most of the time. Never an issue.

Yes lithium has advantages. Most answers are for a fairly tight budget.

1800 watts is a lot of solar.

[tmckenna]

Ive taken a fair amount into consideration.

Most of the batteries that Im looking at have a maximum charge rate of 50 amps. So thats 600 watts at 12V. In terms of solar that basically means that you can use up to 6 panels to charge 1 battery.

3 batteries means I can have up to 1800 watts of solar charging at one time. Which would also be just about enough to maintain the same battery level even while running the Air conditioning.

For now its really just a pipe dream for over prepared off-grid life/travelling, but in theory its pretty solid.

Also, I'm aware that wanting to run AC off a battery setup is mostly unnecessary, but as I said itd be nice to have the option.

[tmckenna]

time2roll wrote:

tmckenna wrote:
I've been researching the process of installing an inverter into my 2013 Tracer 2700RES and I noticed that most installation videos tell you to turn off the converter while utilizing inverter power because theres no reason to charge the batteries from their own power.

I've check my breaker box and have no breakers for the converter as far as I can tell. How else would the converter function, and where should I look?

That is correct that you do not want to create a charging/inverting loop as it will just run your battery down fast.

Your converter is probably on one of the shared branch circuits that go to the various outlets. If you pull the cover off to see the 120v wires in the distribution panel you may see the connection. Otherwise you can monitor battery voltage as you turn off the breakers one at a time. Battery voltage will drop once the converter is powered off.

You can also wire the inverter into the panel so it does not power the converter.

Also you will want to set the fridge to propane only as it may also get powered by the inverter.

Just depends on how you connect the inverter.

If the converter is on a shared breaker, is it as simple as just adding another breaker and running the lines to that?

If I'm not connected to shore power I would almost always run the fridge on propane.

I'm really just planning out the setup when I hopefully get a pretty beefy solar setup so I can power the AC items inside without being connected to shore power.

[tmckenna]

time2roll wrote:

tmckenna wrote:
Also I was planning on running a large enough inverter to power at least the AC. I don't think I'd ever power the AC from the batteries, but itd be nice to have the option, especially if i ever do a serious solar setup.

Running the A/C from battery power will need 2000 to 3000 watt sine wave inverter. To have cool air for any significant time you will need 10+ batteries. General minimum to power an inverter is a battery for every 500 watts.

Im looking to do a few 100ah Lithium batteries with 70amp continuous discharge rating. Thats 840 watts per battery, so with a 13,500btu AC pulling 1500 watts while running, i should be okay with 3 batteries, providing 2520 watts to start and run the AC.

[time2roll]

tmckenna wrote:
Also I was planning on running a large enough inverter to power at least the AC. I don't think I'd ever power the AC from the batteries, but itd be nice to have the option, especially if i ever do a serious solar setup.

Running the A/C from battery power will need 2000 to 3000 watt sine wave inverter. To have cool air for any significant time you will need 10+ batteries. General minimum to power an inverter is a battery for every 500 watts.

[time2roll]

tmckenna wrote:
I've been researching the process of installing an inverter into my 2013 Tracer 2700RES and I noticed that most installation videos tell you to turn off the converter while utilizing inverter power because theres no reason to charge the batteries from their own power.

I've check my breaker box and have no breakers for the converter as far as I can tell. How else would the converter function, and where should I look?

That is correct that you do not want to create a charging/inverting loop as it will just run your battery down fast.

Your converter is probably on one of the shared branch circuits that go to the various outlets. If you pull the cover off to see the 120v wires in the distribution panel you may see the connection. Otherwise you can monitor battery voltage as you turn off the breakers one at a time. Battery voltage will drop once the converter is powered off.

You can also wire the inverter into the panel so it does not power the converter.

Also you will want to set the fridge to propane only as it may also get powered by the inverter.

Just depends on how you connect the inverter.