Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure

Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.

Pictures would help.

I think aluminum will work. My frame broke years ago in the corner part way. It hasn’t been an issue due to where it is.

Sadly, another Heki failure. If it comes to that, you can buy one out of Europe shipped to the US - the whole thing - for less than replacement parts cost here.

I would JB Weld or epoxy the aluminum in addition to some rivets. This will create one solid piece and distribute load better on brittle aged plastic.

That will hold solid with some JB weld. Clean It up and sand both sides. Is there any way you can loosen the knob a little bit to not be so tight. I'd try to fix it. These things are real expensive.

Not sure what material Heki uses for the frame ... some plastics are very difficult to bond. We have a Heki in our camper, and the plastic "feels" like it can be glued with the right glue. I would double it up with an overlapping strip of ABS plastic or Aluminum (or something else that will adhere well) from the back side.

Degrease and clean the surfaces well and sand with 180, 240 or 320 sandpaper to make the glue adhere well. Use clothespins or similar to keep everything together until dry.

Can't really recommend a glue from here, we have different brand names here in Europe. I would use a good epoxy glue. No cyanacrylates, they bond really well but don't like long term exposure to moisture.

Mikell wrote:
Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.

This is the approach I would use . I would use an adhesive but not rely on it alone having the forces of the lock lip on it . Sandwiched with aluminum and riveted will probably hold up , you can only try , I have use similar repair on other projects with success . Good luck .

I believe the Heki is molded from ASA, which is similar to ABS plastic. I'd use West Systems GFlex, after flame treating it (instructions can be found on the WestSystem.com website). That only takes a second and greatly improves adhesion in many plastics. If you use rivets, be sure to use large backing washers, or you risk further cracking due to concentrating the stresses.