Some mod questions...

Farmerkev wrote:

D.E.Bishop wrote:
I disagree with needing 120volt three way switches. I have two switches for my water pump, one in the bath and one in the kitchen next to the water heater switch. My switches are std RV switches by Sigma and they are available through RV dealers and other parts houses. I'll post the numbers and mfgs in AM> DW is calling.

Same as you but my old motorhome has 3.
Bath, kitchen and basement compartment by the outdoor shower and dump valves.

That is because we have a latching controller

http://www.slesolar.com/items/item1261.htm

2 switches can work pretty well in Bishop's setup because you would always be within one toggle of having both switches in the same position. 3 switches without a latching controller and you would be running around trying to find the one switch that was out of alignment with the other two all the time.

I personally wouldn't go through the effort of even adding a second switch just to get the location out of the bathroom.

The easiest way to fix the light problem is with something like this. Then you can mount it anywhere you and the kid like it to be.

http://www.amazon.com/Instabulb-Battery-Operated-Stick-2-pack/dp/B007KYS8GC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1394203487&sr=8-6&keywords=closet+lights+battery+operated

Or, a puck light like this

http://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-30010-301-Battery-Operated-Stick-On-Silver/dp/B000R7PM36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394203487&sr=8-1&keywords=closet+lights+battery+operated


http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acloset%20lights%20battery%20operated

D.E.Bishop wrote:
I disagree with needing 120volt three way switches. I have two switches for my water pump, one in the bath and one in the kitchen next to the water heater switch. My switches are std RV switches by Sigma and they are available through RV dealers and other parts houses. I'll post the numbers and mfgs in AM> DW is calling.

Same as you but my old motorhome has 3.
Bath, kitchen and basement compartment by the outdoor shower and dump valves.

In my rig there are two switches for the pump, one in the bath and one in the kitchen. These switches do not have a typical on – off configuration. If both switches are in the same position the pump is on, if one is in the opposite position from the other, the pump is off. There are two places where we have water, the kitchen and the bathroom. Therefore, there are two switches for convenience. The OEM of the witches is Sigma and has the same dimensions as RVD and DG switches and they are fully interchangeable.

Below is a diagram of the circuit, and general information on the switches including the part numbers. If it would be helpful, I can scan the pages from the catalog and post them. Just notify me by PM.



I see by your last post that you have decided not to add the second switch, but should you change your mind, it is a pretty easy mod.

For the light switch project, I'd need to run forward in ceiling maybe 2-3 feet from light, and then 3-4 feet down an interior wall to switch location. Tub/shower is on other side of interior wall.

Based on feedback, I think I'll either add another outlet, or just relocate the GFCI outlet from its current location to desired location. It is located in front of sink on lower cabinet now- shouldn't be hard to run wiring around to behind sink inside cabinet and come up through hole in countertop to outlet. I'm thinking of using a surface mount outlet setup that would be mounted to wall but sitting right on countertop, so wiring would be sealed/hidden from view under counter. This would also eliminate any need to pull wiring through exterior wall.

I'll try and live with the WP switch situation. All my previous RVs have had switch in kitchen, so was just complaining based on previous experience.

Thanks!

I have done quite a bit of wiring mods to my TTs. Due to the differences in how mine have been constructed, different approaches were needed for each one. My present TT has solid foam block insulation in the outer walls. It does have an enclosed under belly, and a lot of the factory wiring runs inside that. So I have done the same, running wires up thru interior walls from the underbelly. Sometimes I had to come up under a cabinent and then go sideways thru the cabinent cavities to get to the wall that I needed.

In short, without actually seeing your unit... Nobody can say for sure what your best approach will be.... You do need some understanding of how all this stuff works, and the ability to solve the problems that will come up..

FWIW, my only solution to adding a receptacle at the kitchen counter location consisted of using a power strip. It works well and was cheap and easy.

I disagree with needing 120volt three way switches. I have two switches for my water pump, one in the bath and one in the kitchen next to the water heater switch. My switches are std RV switches by Sigma and they are available through RV dealers and other parts houses. I'll post the numbers and mfgs in AM> DW is calling.

IDK, but seems like you're splitting hairs on the WP switch location. We turn ours on when we set up and off when we pull out. If we leave for extended periods in between, we turn it off, but otherwise it's on. Why does it matter where it is so much? Last thing you're likely to do before you leave is use the bathroom. Last one out hits the switch. Just seems like there are better ways to use your time and talents. My .02.

Well, I'm afraid I am gonna hafta disagree with your disagreement. When I did it, I found it pretty straightforward in the end. But then, I got a bit lucky and found an existing hole close to where the switches were going. You've got up to 6" or so cavity depth to work in the center of the TT which can help. I was able to fish 120V, 12V and CATV wiring from one end of our TT to the other as well as up and down walls and fridge cavity without much difficulty. It was time-consuming though. Brake cable from an automotive store works well for 12VDC and is available in heavier gauge and has an overall jacket. Don't use light gauge wire.

The outer walls would definitely be a problem if they are block foam and you couldn't do it without damaging insulation.

It may seem like a challenge, but if you roll your sleeves up and stand back and scope out some routes, it's just not that bad. I was able to run coax cable from front to back of the TT by using the hole behind the lights on the ceiling. It was all much easier than I thought at first. Until one gives it a go, I wouldn't balk at it. Helps of course that electrical work is my thing.

SCD device

westend wrote:
I disagree that this will be an easy task to pull wire through the ceiling and down into a wall cavity.

If you have to connect to an existing non-GFCI recept., you can just add a GFCI as long is it doesn't end up being in series with another one. Or a GFCI breaker will work but they are expensive. Unless you can install an outlet box for a residential type recept., you need to use a "SCD" type like this Pass & Seymour one. (Available at RV parts vendors.)

Do some research on this. Should be some youtube videos about extending a circuit and pulling wire. It sounds like you have never done this type of thing by your post.

The 12V wiring for your ceiling light will be a run of two wires, 14 ga. will be adequate. I disagree that this will be an easy task to pull wire through the ceiling and down into a wall cavity. This will be especially true through an outer wall filled with foam or in the ceiling cavity through the joists. It will be much easier to establish a run under raceway to a surface mounted switch. As your child grows, the whole business could be removed.

The 120V receptacle location above the countertop is a good idea. I would extend the circuit from the existing GFCI. Any receptacle within a few feet of a water source should have GFCI protection. You could, of course, extend the circuit and add in another GFCI. That becomes problematic using a shallow old work box, the best choice for your new receptacle. You will need to pull wire from the existing GFCI to the new location, I would use 14 ga. if you have a 15 amp circuit breaker powering the GFCI, 12 ga. if you have a 20 amp. Cut an opening into the wall behind the countertop big enough for the old work box, leaving enough room if you have foam behind the paneling for the two attachment arms to swing inside the cavity. Use a metal snake or fiberglass rod to pull the wire into the new location (a coathanger will sometimes also work for this).

If you haven't done this type of thing, previously, I would enlist help from a relative or friend. Done incorrectly, there can be safety issues.

I wouldn't mess with the water pump switch. It is too problematic for any perceived inconvenience. You only touch it twice, usually, for a given camping setup.