Forum Discussion

SlideInDad's avatar
SlideInDad
Explorer
Jun 04, 2015

Some rear suspension questions

So my 2007 2500HD classic has a 2" Cognito Leveling kit on it (I know leveling kits aren't good for TCs but it was the only way to fit 285 tires rated at 3750 each). For the past 8 years I've had Supersprings and airbags in the back and they worked well loaded but truck road like a DRW empty so I just took the supersprings off this past weekend and ordered some Stable Loads. Problem is the rake is now gone as the Supersprings must have given me 1-1.5" lift unloaded=fairly level loaded with 50psi in the bags. My concern with the new setup is the Stable Loads will pick up where the Supersprings used to but they're starting engagement from 1.5" lower so my overall loaded ride may no longer be level. I can put more air in the bags but then aren't I taking the benefit of the stable loads away by riding on too much air?

Considering putting a 1" lift block under the leafs. I verified with Airlift that as long as the distance between the axle and frame is no more than 7" I'm fine there and my Bilstein 5100s can handle the extra inch as they did with the Supersprings. Several threads on hear about how lift blocks are a bad solution to leveling the load but I'm simply looking to use them so the overloads get engaged with stable loads a little higher and I still have the air bags to help.

Truck does ride a ton better unloaded now so I don't want to put the Supersprings back on.
Truck Campers
  • AnEv942's avatar
    AnEv942
    Nomad
    Jun 05, 2015
    I dont know if applicable but on our Ford one of the differences between 4x an 2 wheel drives is the addition of rear factory 2" blocks. I am not a fan of blocks either but that is the way it came and Ive never had issue.
    If Chevy same, Id opt for the factory blocks (and longer u-bolts) again if applicable.

    I gather now the rear is lower or when under load since removal of the SS- Not knowing or familiar with the front kit, is there a way to lower an 1"? Unless this is more about increasing engagement time/distance of rear.
  • Bedlam's avatar
    Bedlam
    Moderator
    Jun 04, 2015
    I don't like axle blocks since allows more twist leverage on your springs. If you are only hauling a TC, this may be fine, but I tow a 6000-8000 lb trailer while hauling my TC.
  • SlideInDad's avatar
    SlideInDad
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    terryrey wrote:
    Just a suggestion, but you may want to look at installing Maxloader overload springs. I have the same truck and tires, also with the 2" Coginito front leveling kit and rear air bags, and carry about 6700 lbs on the rear axle with the camper loaded. My solution to stop rock and roll when traveling off road and to level the rear of the truck with little or no air in the air bags was MaxLoaders. Unloaded the truck has a near stock ride because the MaxLoaders are not engaged. Here is a link to my RV.Net write up on my experience with and installation of Maxloaders: LINK For what it's worth...Terry


    I read your post on the Maxloaders and though they do look like a nice solution I don't take my rig offroad and you do state that your old setup with Stable Loads, Air bags ... did work fine around town and on the highway. This solutions more than I want to spend and appears to be a more involved install. I'd just put the Supersprings back on with new shackles should it come to this.

    I see varying opinions on the Stable Loads so guess I'll have to see for myself. Up til now they've done nothing as the SS never let the OEM springs get close to the overloads. Stable Loads will immediately get them into the mix. I hope to avoid putting the SS back on as the truck rides much nicer with them off, nice thing about Air Bags and Stable Loads is I can control when they're engaged.

    My real question in this post was if anyone saw any issue with my theory on putting a 1" block on the rear to put a small rake back into the truck unloaded while not effecting suspension. That way when I do engage stable loads I'm starting with the rake and sagging to level and ensuring the lower overloads are fully engaged instead of completely leveling with air.

    Bedlam wrote:
    What about using Timbrens or Work Rites between the frame and axle bump stop?


    On the GMC the Airbags install between the axle and frame so can't use with Timbrens, it's one or the other and I already have the bags installed.
  • cewillis's avatar
    cewillis
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    jefe 4x4 wrote:
    There is almost no flex on the GM lower overload springs. They are just an unyielding flat beam to be a limit of the loading of the rest of the spring pack,

    I respectfully disagree, Jefe. I was rather surprised at the about of flex in the bottoms -- before I took most of the camper weight on my custom top overloads.
  • jefe_4x4's avatar
    jefe_4x4
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    There is almost no flex on the GM lower overload springs. They are just an unyielding flat beam to be a limit of the loading of the rest of the spring pack, if the pack ever gets to that point. Remember too that your flex and suspension travel will be negatively affected. Everyone must design their own solution. I too think the S.S.'s should be part of the solution, but I'm not in the air bag camp.
    jefe
  • terryrey's avatar
    terryrey
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    Just a suggestion, but you may want to look at installing Maxloader overload springs. I have the same truck and tires, also with the 2" Coginito front leveling kit and rear air bags, and carry about 6700 lbs on the rear axle with the camper loaded. My solution to stop rock and roll when traveling off road and to level the rear of the truck with little or no air in the air bags was MaxLoaders. Unloaded the truck has a near stock ride because the MaxLoaders are not engaged. Here is a link to my RV.Net write up on my experience with and installation of Maxloaders: LINK For what it's worth...Terry
  • Bedlam's avatar
    Bedlam
    Moderator
    Jun 04, 2015
    What about using Timbrens or Work Rites between the frame and axle bump stop? You may find a happy medium by using different height spacers that come with these kits. It sounds like your SuperSprings were pretensioned too much when unloaded in order to give you enough support when loaded - There is fine line between unloaded ride comfort and loaded capacity.

    The lower StableLoad wedges may give you a 1" lift but it not as pronounced as the SuperSprings. The idea is to pretension your OEM suspension so that heavier loads are supported better.
  • SlideInDad's avatar
    SlideInDad
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    billtex wrote:
    We have same truck (06) and same setup; SS/bags/5100's. The SS's do make the ride a bit stiff but I would not be without them on a SRW.
    Did you try backing off the preload to the first hole?

    To be honest, the bags are just along for the ride now on our truck (min psi). I think the 50 psi you are running may be the problem. That is a lot of psi.

    IIWY I would out the SS on first hole and remove bags or run at min psi.

    We have been running 285's for several years now with no levelling kit (trimmed a tiny bit of the plastic front fascia).

    For us, the tires/wheels, SS and Bilsteins have been the ticket with SRW.

    Edit; the problem with stableloads and the 2500 for us was the lack of top overloads. This is why the SS were key; additional spring capacity. The weight of our required more spring capacity. Your 861 is probably heavier than our Eagle Cap. Nice camper...but they are heavy.

    Bill


    I only have 50psi in the bags when loaded and it rides fine that way, unloaded there's 5psi in the bags so that's not the problem. After 8 winters in New England nothing was coming off the spring pack nice so had to cut the u bolts and rollers off. I'm going to try the Stable Loads since with the SS my lower overloads have never ever come into play. I realize I'm losing the spring capacity of the SS but gaining that of the overloads. Worst case I still have the SS and etrailer sells replacement shackles for $5.

    When I first installed the SS 8 years ago I tried the first hole and it was annoyingly noisy unloaded as the roller kept disengaging and engaging from the springs on our lovely New England roads.
  • billtex's avatar
    billtex
    Explorer II
    Jun 04, 2015
    We have same truck (06) and same setup; SS/bags/5100's. The SS's do make the ride a bit stiff but I would not be without them on a SRW.
    Did you try backing off the preload to the first hole?

    To be honest, the bags are just along for the ride now on our truck (min psi). I think the 50 psi you are running may be the problem. That is a lot of psi.

    IIWY I would out the SS on first hole and remove bags or run at min psi.

    We have been running 285's for several years now with no levelling kit (trimmed a tiny bit of the plastic front fascia).

    For us, the tires/wheels, SS and Bilsteins have been the ticket with SRW.

    Edit; the problem with stableloads and the 2500 for us was the lack of top overloads. This is why the SS were key; additional spring capacity. The weight of our required more spring capacity. Your 861 is probably heavier than our Eagle Cap. Nice camper...but they are heavy.

    Bill
  • jason4598's avatar
    jason4598
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2015
    Last week I tilted my camper in the bed. I used 3/4 inch plywood with a 2 x 4 under the back, nothing under the front to make a little wedge. I used thinner pieces to brace the board towards the front.

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