where to put inverter on Northstar Pop up

thedavidzoo wrote:
They are the blue GBS cells from Elitepowersolutions.com. I got them through Larry at Starlight Solar in Yuma, AZ along with the BMS.
So far they are working great. I am having a few minor challenges with getting the cells balanced more (faulty BMS part initially drew down one cell). If you are not bottom balancing up front and keeping an eye on V and SOC yourself, they do require the BMS system to prevent drawing down too much or overcharging.
Weight reduction was one of the major factors for us. Huge savings per Ah, as was ability to draw down to 20% SOC.
My converter is the standard WFCO but I don't use the converter or alternator (or a generator) to charge the lithiums, only solar. Tried hooking up converter to charge the batts as a test, but the 10 gauge cable from converter to batts didn't seem to allow much amps.
Inverter is GoPower high-surge 1500W (surge to 3000W).

Thanks for the information. Solar is out for me. I camp mostly in the woods under the canopy so I'd have to either charge them with the converter (I have a WFCO front end with a PD upgrade installed through my small (2000 watt Inverter genny) or shore power at home.

I actually considered adding panels but after reading about the power loss with partial shading, decided not to. Don't get much sun in the north Michigan woods.

I'm looking at the weight savings as well. With a TC, any weight savings directly equates to being able to carry more 'stuff' without being overloaded and that was why I sold my Lance and got a pop up TC, I was always overloaded. Not mow and it's a much more pleasant driving experience. No sweaty palms on the slab in the wind and better fuel mileage too plus the whole outfit fits in the garage so storage now is easy.

We gave up some amenities selling the Lance but for us, the trade off was worth it.

Thanks again for the information.

They are the blue GBS cells from Elitepowersolutions.com. I got them through Larry at Starlight Solar in Yuma, AZ along with the BMS.
So far they are working great. I am having a few minor challenges with getting the cells balanced more (faulty BMS part initially drew down one cell). If you are not bottom balancing up front and keeping an eye on V and SOC yourself, they do require the BMS system to prevent drawing down too much or overcharging.
Weight reduction was one of the major factors for us. Huge savings per Ah, as was ability to draw down to 20% SOC.
My converter is the standard WFCO but I don't use the converter or alternator (or a generator) to charge the lithiums, only solar. Tried hooking up converter to charge the batts as a test, but the 10 gauge cable from converter to batts didn't seem to allow much amps.
Inverter is GoPower high-surge 1500W (surge to 3000W).

thedavidzoo wrote:
We have a much larger Northstar and more space to work with, 4 lithium batts, their associated junk, solar and chargers, fuses, and inverter.

We ended up building an easily accessible vented "box" beneath our fridge for one of the batts and the rest of the electronics. Rex sent us material to make it match decor. It takes up a little bit of floor space, but everything is very close and cables are short. Had to drill 2 holes in back of dinette to run cables between battery box and new box.
See here https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28937969/srt/pa/pging/1/page/3.cfm

While not on subject, I have to ask about the lithium batteries. What kind and do they work as advertised and what type of converter are you using. Reason I ask is I'm contemplating replacing my conventional batteries and I'm considering lithium for the weight reduction and no fumes.

We have a much larger Northstar and more space to work with, 4 lithium batts, their associated junk, solar and chargers, fuses, and inverter.

We ended up building an easily accessible vented "box" beneath our fridge for one of the batts and the rest of the electronics. Rex sent us material to make it match decor. It takes up a little bit of floor space, but everything is very close and cables are short. Had to drill 2 holes in back of dinette to run cables between battery box and new box.
See here https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28937969/srt/pa/pging/1/page/3.cfm

Thanks for all the info, I have a 1000 W PSW inverter. my compartment is the same as sidecarFlip. I have 2 Gp 31 105 Amp flooded batteries in plastic boxes, North Star did put a 2" vent tube into the compartment, with a single Gp 27 box for the vent to attach. I'm thinking of making a sub compartment (plywood box) for the batteries, and venting that. This is about the only option to keep the battery cables short.

I would never put the unit in the same compartment with an unenclosed flooded cell battery. The acid fumes would destroy the electronics pretty quick.

work2much wrote:
What type of batteries? In general sources of ignition are not advised in confined spaces with batteries but AGM could be ok, or sealing the batteries with venting as mentioned by sidecarfilp should be fine. The only other note would be that inverters can get hot and need space/venting as well.The only other note would be that inverters can get hot and need space/venting as well.

In my case, that space is quite large and the PSW unit has twin cooling fans plus the FW tank is in there, providing a bulk cooling effect. I've never heard the fans on the inverter run but they probably do. We run 2 CPAP machine on it every night and the coffee maker in the morning (unless I get up first and make percolator coffee).

What type of batteries? In general sources of ignition are not advised in confined spaces with batteries but AGM could be ok, or sealing the batteries with venting as mentioned by sidecarfilp should be fine. The only other note would be that inverters can get hot and need space/venting as well.

I have my AimsPower 2000 watt PSW inverter in the battery compartment (in my Palomino pup up TC) along with the water pump and the FW tank and all the electricals too...

and I'm running 2 flooded cell deep cycle batteries.

Having said that, my batteries are both in a sealed compartment vented to the outside, one vent on top, one underneath (the battery box). I've never in 2 years had any issue at all.

I wanted the Inverter as close to the battery bank as possible to keep the leads short and avoid as much resistance loss as possible. Inverters, by their very nature are amp hungry beasts so the closer to the battery bank the better.

Besides, there was no better place to install it...lol

One of the basics of RV solar is to never put the controller in the same place as wet cell batteries. IMO jury is still out regarding AGMs.