Loren_Ross
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Shower Drain Hepvo Valve
Well, I did it this time... I didn't realize my shower was protected by a Hepvo valve, and I used a wire to clear a hair clog. And, I tore the whole valve out of the pipe. Problem is that there is no room to replace it under the shower. There's only 3/4 inch space between the floor and valve, and same between the shower floor and valve. Can't fit a strap wrench on it, there's no way to turn it even if I could. Had an RV repair guy look at it, and he confirmed that I'd have to remove the entire shower to replace this piece. With this valve missing, the smell is terrible while showering. Question: Is there any other type of valve that I could install at the top of the shower drain? Maybe in the catch basket before the water goes down the pipe? Anyone have a suggestion?42Views0likes0CommentsDash A/C Problem
Drove our 07 Southwind 32V about 90 minutes the other day and while parking, the dash air got warm and a strong burning rubber smell entered the coach. I assumed the compressor had seized and was burning the serpentine belt, so I just immediately shut the A/C down, and continued parking, leveling, etc. After everything cooled down, my son and I started checking things out and found the A/C was working perfectly. Compressor is turning fine, and the air is ice cold like always. We have 43K on the coach and have never had an A/C problem before. Can the compressor seize and release again when it cools down? I wouldn't think that would be possible, I'd think that if the compressor seized, that would be it... Thoughts or suggestions?930Views0likes4CommentsRe: Slide out floor parting from frame
Thanks for the comments folks. Ended up replacing the plywood floor, and did it from the inside in 2 pieces. Sealed the exterior with spar varnish and recovered it with the plastic wrapping, and used screws to bolt it UP into the base of the walls. Holds great. LR208Views0likes0CommentsSlide out floor parting from frame
2002 Keystone Cougar 281EFS. Removed the carpeting to replace with vinyl laminate flooring. When I stood on the rear end of the slide, the floor sunk and broke away from the wall. There was daylight coming through the gap. On the outside, there is a metal frame with 7 screws horizontally into the slide floor. These screws were only 1 1/4 inch, were rusted badly, and not holding anything up. Initially, I used some Extreme Hold Liquid Nails in the joint between the wall and floor, and replaced the screws with 2 1/2 inch decking screws. I used a floor jack to hold the floor up in position and let it sit for 48 hours to give the Liquid Nails time to setup. First time I stepped on it while installing flooring, it broke away again. So now, I've re-glued it again and have it supported with the floor jack, but I don't know what to do to hold it together. Should I try screwing it from the bottom up into the wall?? Any other suggestions??1KViews0likes5CommentsReplacing Interior cab wall in upper bedroom
Trying to fix up a 2002 Keystone 5th wheel with major water damage in the front bedroom. Found the leak on the roof and repaired it, but had to open the interior wall to replace it. Found that the insulation was wet and moldy, and the interior paneling had completely de-laminated all the way across the front. Pulled out the paneling and insulation, installed new fiberglass insulation, and then attempted to replace the paneling. Problem I'm having is the wall is curved inward, matching the curve of the front cap. The old paneling was stapled to the aluminum studs, but for some reason I can't get the new paneling installed with the same curve. The panel is too stiff to bend to the curve. I did push (force) it in against the studs and hit it with my crown stapler, but the staples just go right through the paneling and won't hold it in place. I've set the air pressure on my stapler to 50 psi (supposed to be between 70 and 120) and the staples just keep going through the wood paneling. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to apply the paneling and follow the curve of the studs? Thanks in advance!!1.1KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Allegro front engine diesel
A friend has this same coach. Only problems he's reported are electrical in nature. After several various problems, they finally located a corroded ground terminal with 12 ground wires under the dash on the driver side. After cleaning and replacing the corroded connectors, all is well. He's been full-timing in it for 7 years now and is still happy with the rig.590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Top Heavy Sway
If you're up for one more suggestion, I have a 32' Southwind and found it to be top heavy also. On the highways, passing trucks would cause me to rock back and forth as well. My only difference is that I'm on a workhorse chassis with the 8.1L V8... I started travelling with a full fresh water tank. In my rig, the tank is perfectly centered front to back and side to side, and that extra 320 pounds of low weight has really changed the ride. It's much more stable, and rocks much less. The extra weight hasn't dropped my gas mileage, and most importantly, my wife is much happier! Best of all, it isn't expensive.550Views0likes0CommentsRe: recall on Norcold refrigerator
vegasfoodguy wrote: When you wash the coach, Are you squirting water on the access panel for the fridge? It doesn't like water. Also look at ARP. Terry X2.. I just had to replace my sensor as it had failed. The repair guy asked me if I had recently washed my rig, and I had in fact done it the day the fridge had failed. He showed me where the sensor was sitting and you could see it through the side vent. Simply, when I washed the rig, I splashed water into the sensor, shorting it out. He told me that this was the most common thing he has seen with these "failed" sensors. He broke the case open and we could see the scorch marks on the circuit board... I've since modified mine with a thin plastic cover to prevent water from hitting it again. I've always tried to be careful and not get water into that vent, but... Accidents happen.617Views0likes0Comments
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