oyly
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Shop recommendation - timer relay needed
I've bought one of these low voltage disconnect units (LVD-35) from Powerwerx: https://powerwerx.com/low-voltage-disconnect-battery-guard I'm quite happy with it, the build is solid and it does what it promises, though I would prefer if it had a true relay output. (Instead it connects the 12V+ input to the 12V+ output) What I found though, when installing it, is that it won't do the job I had planned for it without some extra components. My plan was to let it turn off the master shut off relay, and I found that this actually needs a positive voltage signal to one of its inputs to turn off. So, the LVD-35 will start with its output off, then turn it on, and then turn off again when voltage drops. And the master shut off relay should only be signalled when the voltage drops. So I need a relay with a normally-closed output, and a timer relay. Preferrably something molded and rugged, like the LVD-35 Which shop do you recommend for parts like this? Thanks577Views0likes1CommentRe: 2nd LP regulator fail in 2 years - oil in regulator!!?
dougrainer and darsben1, Thank you both for your help. I'm in touch with Winnebago regarding new hoses, and also looking for a replacement regulator with built in sediment trap, or a sediment trap that I'll add on. I'll keep checking if oil is collecting and keep troubleshooting until it stops. Hopefully that should be the end of the regulator failures.423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2nd LP regulator fail in 2 years - oil in regulator!!?
All, thanks for the very good inputs. That's definitely something to think about. This sounds like it should be a very well known problem then, so it's surprising that the LP regulator isn't made with a sediment trap or similar built-in. If the problem is only when high pressure vapor is allowed to sit, perhaps it would be good practice to get the vapor out before winter storage? I could simply close the main shut off valve and use the stove until the lines are empty.422Views0likes0Comments2nd LP regulator fail in 2 years - oil in regulator!!?
So my LP regulator failed again, after having been replaced less than a year ago. My mechanic showed it to me as he pulled it off. Oil came running out of it! And he thinks that's why it failed. So now I'm wondering, how did the oil get in there??? I've been filling the tank with "Autogas", which is perhaps 80 percent butane and 20 percent propane. I don't think the butane should be a problem, it should just burn about 10 percent hotter than regular propane. I also can't find any information on the web that indicates that oil is added to the Autogas (which could have made sense, since autogas lubricates an ICE less than gasoline). One theory I have is that Winnebago puts oil in the LP system for preservation, and that this should be drained out before using the RV?5.2KViews0likes16CommentsRe: Solution for shoreline to 50Hz 100V
Well I do need my AC. Hot summer days here in Japan may hit 110*F outside. Inside my camper: Well done. I ran the AC in my old Winnebago Minnie directly on the 100V (or less) 50Hz that they have here. It lasted a long while but eventually gave up. I blew a lot of circuit breakers also, lol. Also my microwave didn't work. Dale: Thanks for the tip about the autoformers. Good solution to take care of the voltage difference. wa8yxm: Your Source-----CONVERTER--_Battery----True Sine Wave Inverter-----Output solution is nice in theory, but requires wiring for 300A + 12V DC. And you are basically describing a frequency converter, which I have been considering for a while. Just a little difficult to find one for single phase and that works with those voltages and frequencies. And they're expensive...259Views0likes0CommentsSizing battery banks and converter
I am planning to upgrade the 12V DC system of my RV. There are of course many practical considerations to be taken, but the focus of this post will be only on sizing of the batteries and the converter, while ensuring good charging of the batteries, the current draw of the converter and the theory behind it all. This is NOT a discussion about different battery types, type and use of 12V applications, practical considerations of battery placement or battery care. So, here we go: I would like to double my battery capacity, by doubling the number of batteries in my bank. The converter installed in my RV (and the alternator) SHOULD deliver enough current to charge this doubled battery bank. It will of course take longer to reach a full charge, and I am considering how much time I can accept to reach full charge. My first question is: When is the converter too small? I've read that you get the longest battery life when the batteries are charged and discharged slowly. From that perspective, batteries in a big bank charged by a small converter should last longer. On the other hand, if the converter is too small for the battery bank it may not be able to equalize the batteries. I've seen recommendations that to ensure equalization, the converter output (subtracted for the RV's DC loads) should not be less than 5 percent of the batteries Ah rating, and ideally not less than 10 percent. The next question is: When is the converter too big? I am considering upgrading my converter as well, to reduce the time needed to fully charge the batteries. I dry camp often, and prefer to run my noisy, polluting generator as little as possible. One reason why I am reluctant to up-size the converter is that I will increase the 120V maximum power requirement of my RV, and with the AC running, I don't have too much to spare. But now let's say I decided to go for a really powerful converter. I have seen advice against doing this. But I cannot understand why? Think of what a converter can do and what it cannot. It CAN of course control the voltage that it is charging the batteries with, and as we all know, it changes this voltage during the different stages of charging. What it CANNOT do is control the current going into the batteries during charging. We all remember Ohm's law: The current is the voltage applied to the load (in this case the battery), divided by the resistance of the load. So the batteries should be charged the same way with a very powerful converter, as they would with a simply sufficient one. They will be charged with the same current. Now please, keep this thread factual and on topic! Insights into how the batteries work during charging and discharging, at different SOC's, etc, are most welcome. So are insights into what the chargers do during the different stages of charging. Links to good write-ups explaining the theory are gold! If you would like to share with the community your thoughts on solar, shore power, LP, generator types, battery types, ideas for how to use your available power, please do so, in another thread... Please DON'T tell me about YOUR RV, the specifics of it and how you are using it. Thanks!861Views0likes1CommentRe: Fridge on 12V killing the batteries
smkettner wrote: oyly wrote: smkettner wrote: oyly wrote: My fridge only runs on 12V when the engine is running. If this is the case you should never have trouble. Does it switch automatic when the engine starts or stops? Yes. I am not sure the technician fully understands how your 12v fridge system works... along with half the posts here. I believe most 12v in the USA have a manual setting and will drain the battery if something is not putting in a charge at the same time. Good chance you just received a bad battery and it was replaced under warranty. Dealers (over here) like to blame the customer even if it is their own fault. Just part of the business culture. Do watch that your battery is not allowed to self discharged when not in use and you should be fine. A little simplistic for an engineer but this article is a good read for most people in an RV. The 12 Volt Side of Life Yep, you're spot on I think. Yes, I can manually set the fridge to 12V mode only, but I've never used that mode. Thanks for the link to the article mate.750Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fridge on 12V killing the batteries
garry1p wrote: I'm no expert but the way I would answer the question to my own satisfaction would be. Start with fully charged batteries with the engine running frig on 12V what is the voltage at the batteries? 13V+ and you know there should be no damage to the batteries since you are providing good enough charge to satisfy the batteries and run the frig. If you are starting out with low battery voltage then run on propane until batteries get a good charge then switch to battery. You battery problem may not be the frig but running the batteries to low to many times when dry camping. That's what I was thinking too. Enginer running and fridge on 12V, 13,6V on the batteries. Yes, I run the fridge on LP if the batteries are low. Also when first starting it up, since it would take a very long time for it to cool on 12V.750Views0likes0Comments
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