mgrovesjai
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Beaver Roof to Sidewall Mouldings coming away
I have a 1999 Beaver Marquis. I can see that the gutter trim is coming away from the sidewall/roof seam in places. Has anyone repaired this trim and if so can you provide a methodology. It appears there is a rubber trim above the gutter channel (not viewable from the ground) that is attached perhaps into a channel and which covers screws in that channel which hold the trim up? I see that there is a rivet on the end (I am looking at the driver side gutter front of the gutter) and I am guessing I need to drill that out, then simply pull up the rubber strip all along the gutter. But, then can it be pushed back into a channel that it fits into after I've replaced the screws which have come undone? I believe this type of trim may be used only in Beaver Coaches of this same vintage and maybe later. Another trim, but much wider serves to cover what I suppose is the transition from the lower fiberglass sidewalls from the aluminum basement doors however this union is covered by a long and wide (2" perhaps more) aluminum strip the entire length of the coach which is "cupped" at each end by riveted pieces. Some areas along these strips are also coming away from the sidewall and if guidance is available for the technique of repairing those as well, I would appreciate it. I believe that repairing both transition areas will go along way in stopping and preventing leaks. Thanks, Mike783Views0likes2CommentsRe: Oil drain plug location C-12
bshpilot wrote: as PKennedy says - install a FUMOTO Valve on the drain pan (Ive had one on my f350 diesel for over 8 years now & love it)....then you can stop the flow anytime you want ! its a lot less messy too & you don't need to search for a wrench to pull the drain plug. our MBE4000 / DD13 takes 42 quarts (10.5g)...i just drain it into some 5 gallon jugs & switch jugs when they get full. these valves don't open by accident or bumping ! you can install an optional hose clip/ring (sold with the valve) to prevent tampering. this thread seems to be dropping posts after these pictures were posted so this is a test to see if this post will post.432Views0likes0CommentsRe: Oil drain plug location C-12
I do already have the FUMOTO plug T205 for this sized CAT engine, but there is a question as to whether I may need an extension piece (I do for the one I purchased for the 10K generator). I don't think I need one though for either of these drains I see as they appear rather flush. I may order one just in case because being without one would be a killer, but sending it back, not a bad deal.433Views0likes0CommentsRe: Oil drain plug location C-12
randallb wrote: Due to the large volume of oil in one of these engines 2 drain pan cycles are usually needed. Some people remove the top drain plug for the first pan full, reinstall it and then remove the lower plug for the second pan full. On my Cummins I used a small roller mop bucket and a conventional oil drain pan. It could get a bit messy switching pans. The 2 drain plugs make the job a bit neater. Randy I hadn't thought of that, so I purchased a rather large (53quart) drain pan, but that's a good idea doing one at a time. I've also purchased the FUMOTO valve, so I am ready to make the next change easier than this one. I think I have everything I need except knowledge of the plug location but I imagine its simply the lowest on the pan, since I am assuming this is the entire oil pan assembly and there's not some other tank - never heard of such a thing, but I am not CAT literate as I am just beginning to get a handle on doing maintenance myself.431Views0likes0CommentsRe: Oil drain plug location C-12
I don't really know what its made of - remember, I can't even tell which plug is which but I guess they both go to the oil pan so yes, I can pull the bottom one and pull the top. I want to put a FUMOTA drain on it, so I guess obviously the lower is the one to go with.432Views0likes0CommentsOil drain plug location C-12
I crawled beneath my 1999 Beaver Marquis to find what type of tool I needed to get the oil drain plug out, and I saw two possible plugs on the pan on the same side as the oil filter (where I am assuming the drain plug is - perhaps I am wrong). One looked like you could use a square 1/2in socket drive, the other was a hex shape and quite large - maybe 1.25" or perhaps larger. The hex plug was the lowest on the pan, so I am guessing that's the one I want, unless there is another compartment beneath the oil pan. I don't want to undo one of these and get anything other than motor oil out of it. :) Anyone with experience with this engine that can help me here?2.1KViews0likes10CommentsRe: Fuel filter change out on Onan QD 10000
Can I use the same oil as I do in the caterpillar engine I have? I am using delo 40/15? Or is there special oil I should use in the QD 10000? The original factory tag said it had 40/15 in it but no manufacturer. Should I just buy the onan product or is that necessary?292Views0likes0CommentsRe: HWH Hyd/Air Leveling System problem
This problem repeated itself on a cross country this a couple months back, and this time, the panel plug was tight but the connection inside the controller (in the electrical bay of the 1999 Beaver Marquis) was loose. I'd written to HWH prior to finding the issue myself, but got no response from them at all. So, in this situation, check both connections, the panel, and the Printed Circuit board inside the controller box.217Views0likes0Comments
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