SpurHntr
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Re: Anyone know where turn signal fuses/relays are located...
Executive wrote: If it were a fuse, neither would be working. It's either a burned out bulb, a corroded connection or a bad wire on that side....Dennis Thanks. Was thinking along same lines. Taking apart those tail lamps is less than fun.195Views0likes0CommentsAnyone know where turn signal fuses/relays are located...
...in a 2008 Newmar Kountry Star 3916 Spartan MM Chassis? Right rear blinker/lamp not working (right front blinker/lamp and right sidemarker lamp works with right turn signal actuated). Left turn signal works fine. I have previous pictures of the panel in the compartment below the drivers seat and don't see it in there, so I'm wondering if its in my drivers side rear compartment just in front of the rear axle where the latching 12V switch resides or hidden in the basement on the frame rail somewhere where my converter/inverter is. Coach is parked a couple hours away from me at the moment so thought Id ask here to save me time when I get back to it.... Hoping it is just the bulb/connection at the lamp housing but haven checked that yet. TIA791Views0likes2CommentsRe: UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
Bruce Brown wrote: That's pretty darn cheap! Glad you're back at on the road. Thanks for the update too. i couldn't be more pleased. ill for sure use these guys again. they had me over a barrel and clearly didn't take advantage of that. that aside, love this forum. many times you guys have either saved my hide or put my mind at ease.480Views0likes0CommentsRe: UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
$618 + tax and Im back in business. So "cheap" I asked them to do the PM while it is there, something i usually do myself but honestly won't miss doing it this year. New exhaust splice and replaced the melted air line/fittings to the governor on the dryer and all systems go. Picking up the rig Friday just in time for the game this weekend. Thanks all who gave me advice, appreciated. Todd478Views0likes0CommentsRe: UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
Update. Seriously considered having it towed home. Educated guess/decision made to limp to Milesburg Cleveland Bros Caterpillar this morn. Inspection of existing exhaust looked to not pose any significant fire risk. Cycled my “manual” 12v remote air dump switch on and off every mile or so and dumped air by using brakes liberally. Low engine rpm indeed slowed my pressure build rate too. Had my wife/spotter follow closely with her and my flashers on. No issues. Pretty legit looking big rig shop with huge bays and lots of security cams. Signs posted say service Cummins and Cat. Fingers crossed. Having trouble posting a pic but will keep trying. I think it identifies the problem. Will keep you posted. THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES. ALL TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY. Todd the lurker Ps. Not savvy enough to usually offer my own advice. Pss Penn State won and we still had an awesome tailgating weekend.478Views0likes0CommentsRe: UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
All excellent observations. Something likely melted. Governer to go bad at same time exhaust system would be a hell of a coincidence. I think going slowly and toggling the 12v Manual Air dump will work. Surely don’t mind pulling over a few times. Access to this area of work needed is limited. Not ideal for a 275 lb guy in a grass lot. Not a fan of being crushed and I don’t have proper back up jacks here. I do have good Sam roadside platinum. Confidence in towing without other/more damage less than high. The existing exhaust is pointing down to dead air open engine bay space and with my side radiator and compartment being open below and well vented to rear the venting appears adequate (for a short trip). Leaning towards the toggling of my 12v pressure dump. The pressure gauges on dash are working. I’d like to believe there is a relief valve somewhere over 150(max level on dash) and if that’s true I’m sure I can get there safely. My biggest fear indeed is blowing out a line then I’m dead in water.479Views0likes0CommentsRe: UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
JRscooby wrote: I know a Cat engine in a truck direct drives the compressor. Do you know where the manual drain for the air tanks are? (Before air dryers, drained daily. Should be drained monthly to be sure dryer still works) Could run a lead to driver, open as needed... Sadly I don’t have the tools/parts and likely the savvy to accomplish this in the shadows of the stadium. But really appreciate the reply and suggestion. Food for thought. I did previously wire a remote controlled 12v switch to my air dump valve. It is still working. Never drove and cycled that open/closed before but PROBABLY could. Doesn’t dump air THAT fast. Famous last words. I never had spring brakes auto activate either.479Views0likes0CommentsUDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.
Wasn’t sure how to title this one. Driving to the Psu orv lot yesterday started to get “air” dash warnings. F/R pressure Gauges pegged at 150. Pulled over. Manually via electronic switch I dumped the air. Did a system check. All seemed ok. Tried again. Within minutes air pressures pegged. Never heard the auto air drop dump whoosh again. Limped to stadium dumping air 1000x by constantly applying brakes to drop air. And occasionally the horn too. Lol. I had many friends yesterday. So, investigated upon parking. Well-apparently I lost 2 feet of exhaust from my 400 isl to my muffler which in turn dumped much hot air back there and fubared some part of the air system which I could see back there. Called local cg I park at, hour later and 3 “we can’t help you’s“ the last place rec’d the local Caterpillar shop. Talked to a super nice lady who once heard I indeed own new Cat equipment let me talk to the shop and despite being closed sundays is letting me drop off my coach there to see if they can fix it. If I can get it there without blowing up my air lines that is. So. My thought is. Let pressure build. Pull air compressor fuse. Use my Jake brake and go slow as hell for 12 miles. Pull over as soon as my air drops below 100 to refuse/refill. Repeat. My question is. Anyone know which fuse is the right one on a 2008 Newmar kountry Star w Spartan Mm chassis ? Or is there an easier way? Lastly, am I crazy for thinking along these lines? Tia!2.1KViews0likes13CommentsRe: PROJECT UPDATE Atwood Levelegs Controller location?
Update Finally got together today with my electrician buddy. Spliced out the old Atwood controller and spliced in the two GAMA 12V GAMA remote control switches. Couldn’t have turned out better. Fully functioning air bags with touch of up or down button on RC. Fully functioning levelegs - just that now I need to level it manually if you will. And remember to put em up before driving away. Chose to mount them with self tapping screws overhead where the prior Atwood controller was located. May install a 30a switch/breaker to the location where the old control pad was which would control any power going to the air dump Switch and Leveleg 4 Ch switch so the air dump switch or legs can’t be activated accidentally by a “stray” RC signal. Probably overkill.654Views0likes0Comments
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