Wasn’t sure how to title this one. Driving to the Psu orv lot yesterday started to get “air” dash warnings. F/R pressure Gauges pegged at 150. Pulled over. Manually via electronic switch I dumped the air. Did a system check. All seemed ok. Tried again. Within minutes air pressures pegged. Never heard the auto air drop dump whoosh again. Limped to stadium dumping air 1000x by constantly applying brakes to drop air. And occasionally the horn too. Lol. I had many friends yesterday. So, investigated upon parking. Well-apparently I lost 2 feet of exhaust from my 400 isl to my muffler which in turn dumped much hot air back there and fubared some part of the air system which I could see back there.Called local cg I park at, hour later and 3 “we can’t help you’s“ the last place rec’d the local Caterpillar shop. Talked to a super nice lady who once heard I indeed own new Cat equipment let me talk to the shop and despite being closed sundays is letting me drop off my coach there to see if they can fix it. If I can get it there without blowing up my air lines that is. So. My thought is. Let pressure build. Pull air compressor fuse. Use my Jake brake and go slow as hell for 12 miles. Pull over as soon as my air drops below 100 to refuse/refill. Repeat. My question is. Anyone know which fuse is the right one on a 2008 Newmar kountry Star w Spartan Mm chassis ?Or is there an easier way?Lastly, am I crazy for thinking along these lines?Tia!

I know a Cat engine in a truck direct drives the compressor. Do you know where the manual drain for the air tanks are? (Before air dryers, drained daily. Should be drained monthly to be sure dryer still works) Could run a lead to driver, open as needed...

JRscooby wrote:I know a Cat engine in a truck direct drives the compressor. Do you know where the manual drain for the air tanks are? (Before air dryers, drained daily. Should be drained monthly to be sure dryer still works) Could run a lead to driver, open as needed...Sadly I don’t have the tools/parts and likely the savvy to accomplish this in the shadows of the stadium. But really appreciate the reply and suggestion.Food for thought. I did previously wire a remote controlled 12v switch to my air dump valve. It is still working. Never drove and cycled that open/closed before but PROBABLY could. Doesn’t dump air THAT fast.Famous last words. I never had spring brakes auto activate either.

By some chance you don’t have roadside assistance do you ? They would tow you in “free” as part of your plan. I would also see if there is a mobile mechanic that the shop can recommend that will come to you to get you secured enough / jury rigged to drive to the shop. Short of that call a commercial tow to see what the charge would be to tow it the 12 miles , probably expensive ( hundreds ) but might be better than further damage. With no muffler and exhaust you must be Pretty darn noisy

SpurHntr wrote:Sadly I don’t have the tools/parts and likely the savvy to accomplish this in the shadows of the stadium. But really appreciate the reply and suggestion.Food for thought. I did previously wire a remote controlled 12v switch to my air dump valve. It is still working. Never drove and cycled that open/closed before but PROBABLY could. Doesn’t dump air THAT fast.Famous last words. I never had spring brakes auto activate either. With a switch like you describe, open at 90lbs or so, and watch does not drop. If looks like it will keep climbing, stay in higher gear, low RPM, go as far as can, and shut off motor, let drop, and repeat. Of course, if drops, close valve, drive on. Would be better if you could train somebody to watch gauge, work switch, so you could drive. Do you have a port to hook a air hose to? A blow nozzle would help dump air, if it was in co-driver's hand.

Governor for compressor bad. Drive it to a shop and have replaced. It won't hurt it, the high pressure pop off valve will release the air when over pressurized. Not unsafe to drive, but needs to be repaired immediatly.

UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.

SpurHntr
Explorer
Sep 12, 2019
Bruce Brown wrote:
That's pretty darn cheap! Glad you're back at on the road.

Thanks for the update too.

i couldn't be more pleased.
ill for sure use these guys again.
they had me over a barrel and clearly didn't take advantage of that.

that aside, love this forum.
many times you guys have either saved my hide or put my mind at ease.
Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Sep 12, 2019
That's pretty darn cheap! Glad you're back at on the road.

Thanks for the update too.
SpurHntr
Explorer
Sep 12, 2019
$618 + tax and Im back in business.
So "cheap" I asked them to do the PM while it is there, something i usually do myself but honestly won't miss doing it this year.
New exhaust splice and replaced the melted air line/fittings to the governor on the dryer and all systems go.
Picking up the rig Friday just in time for the game this weekend.
Thanks all who gave me advice, appreciated.
Todd
SpurHntr
Explorer
Sep 08, 2019
Update.

Seriously considered having it towed home.
Educated guess/decision made to limp to Milesburg Cleveland Bros Caterpillar this morn.
Inspection of existing exhaust looked to not pose any significant fire risk.
Cycled my “manual” 12v remote air dump switch on and off every mile or so and dumped air by using brakes liberally. Low engine rpm indeed slowed my pressure build rate too.
Had my wife/spotter follow closely with her and my flashers on.
No issues.
Pretty legit looking big rig shop with huge bays and lots of security cams.
Signs posted say service Cummins and Cat.
Fingers crossed.
Having trouble posting a pic but will keep trying.
I think it identifies the problem.
Will keep you posted.
THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES.
ALL TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY.

Todd the lurker
Ps. Not savvy enough to usually offer my own advice.
Pss Penn State won and we still had an awesome tailgating weekend.
larry_cad
Explorer II
Sep 08, 2019
Tow truck operators who typically tow BIG vehicles are pretty good about doing so with no damage to the towed vehicle. They use an air hose from their truck to connect to your air system to release the spring brakes. It is also necessary to disconnect the rear "drive" axle, but they know how to do this very quickly. I had a tow truck pick up a 40' DP and tow it 300 miles to my shop to be repaired. It is done all the time.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Sep 07, 2019
Consider getting a section of exhaust pipe to direct the exhaust out of the way until repaired.
SpurHntr
Explorer
Sep 07, 2019
All excellent observations.
Something likely melted.
Governer to go bad at same time exhaust system would be a hell of a coincidence.
I think going slowly and toggling the 12v Manual Air dump will work.
Surely don’t mind pulling over a few times.
Access to this area of work needed is limited.
Not ideal for a 275 lb guy in a grass lot.
Not a fan of being crushed and I don’t have proper back up jacks here.

I do have good Sam roadside platinum.
Confidence in towing without other/more damage less than high.

The existing exhaust is pointing down to dead air open engine bay space and with my side radiator and compartment being open below and well vented to rear the venting appears adequate (for a short trip).

Leaning towards the toggling of my 12v pressure dump.

The pressure gauges on dash are working. I’d like to believe there is a relief valve somewhere over 150(max level on dash) and if that’s true I’m sure I can get there safely. My biggest fear indeed is blowing out a line then I’m dead in water.
JRscooby
Explorer II
Sep 07, 2019
eHoefler wrote:
Governor for compressor bad.

Or more likely the little line to the governor was burnt by hot exhaust.

It won't hurt it, the high pressure pop off valve will release the air when over pressurized.

The pressure relief should dump pressure before damage, but he needs to hold the keyboard closer so I can be sure no other lines/valves have been weakened by heat. And pop-off valves don't always auto close before you have low pressure issues.

Not unsafe to drive, but needs to be repaired immediatly.

The air system is not likely to add danger of personal harm. But exhaust gasses venting into the living area is not good. And before I drove I would want to look around to be sure a fire was unlikely. Maybe make tin foil shields to protect lines/wires...
eHoefler
Explorer II
Sep 07, 2019
Governor for compressor bad. Drive it to a shop and have replaced. It won't hurt it, the high pressure pop off valve will release the air when over pressurized. Not unsafe to drive, but needs to be repaired immediatly.
JRscooby
Explorer II
Sep 07, 2019
SpurHntr wrote:

Sadly I don’t have the tools/parts and likely the savvy to accomplish this in the shadows of the stadium.
But really appreciate the reply and suggestion.
Food for thought.

I did previously wire a remote controlled 12v switch to my air dump valve.
It is still working.
Never drove and cycled that open/closed before but PROBABLY could. Doesn’t dump air THAT fast.

Famous last words. I never had spring brakes auto activate either.

With a switch like you describe, open at 90lbs or so, and watch does not drop. If looks like it will keep climbing, stay in higher gear, low RPM, go as far as can, and shut off motor, let drop, and repeat. Of course, if drops, close valve, drive on. Would be better if you could train somebody to watch gauge, work switch, so you could drive.
Do you have a port to hook a air hose to? A blow nozzle would help dump air, if it was in co-driver's hand.

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UDATE:Need help. Lost exhaust and air pressure regulation.

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