Breakdown Information
Moderators Note: This thread is intending to report a problem and its resolution. If you are seeking help or information to help you resolve a problem you would best be served by initiating a thread on the class A forum proper After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound. If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others. RV particulars: Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Miles: Year: Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.) Symptoms: Effect: Cause: Outcome: This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases. What do you think?
First Time Buyer...Updated 03/06/2006
This post is intended to be helpful to the first time buyer of a motor home. For those of you who don't fall into that category or believe this post is incomplete or off the mark, do us all a favor, and enlighten us. If all you have to offer is criticism with no corresponding constructive comments, no one besides yourself will benefit from the experience. So please improve or expand on this post in a constructive way. The issue at hand is how to select the coach that best matches your wants and needs and offers the most promise of not being a perpetual headache. I think there is an order to thinking through selecting a motor home that best maps to your wants, needs, and pocketbook. There are a lot of issues to get at and understand. Going about the process out of sequence will circumvent some critical steps and increases the potential that in the end you will not be as satisfied with what you buy as you could have been. I've heard it said that nothing can be seen until seen in a form that you're looking for. You give yourself the edge by determining your wants and needs first, letting them guide you to the make and model of motor home. Focus on deal making after your prioritized wants and needs have lead you to the type, make and model, and level of fit and finish that best fit your pocketbook. BUDGET I believe the first step for most will be to establish a framework relative to cost: decide how much you want to spend, how much you can spend, and how much you are willing to spend. For the most part you can count on spending more that you initially thought. Knowing what the max you can spend is a place to start. While the initial cost is a lot more than the tip of the iceberg, the cost of ownership and operation bear some thought as well. Gain some insight into annual insurance cost, maintenance, and storage fees. Start making a list of items that will be purchased to support the RV. Don't forget the dingy and associated costs if you're planning on dragging one around, tow bar, braking system, car insurance and registration. Think about chemicals, hoses, adaptors, critical spares, tools, as well as outdoor furniture, grill, mats, and kitchen gadgets, cleaning supplies, hooks, and toilet paper holder! Then add on the operating costs: fuel, camping fees, charges for radio, television, and telephone, etc. I personally think it's a mistake to go into the process thinking you can always trade in or up. It's a costly strategy. Try to get it right the first time. For many, the choice will boil down to compromising what they want to fit with what they can afford. All the more reason to spend the time and energy to figure out what you want and need and then prioritize your selections to get what you can afford. Once you have established a framework for purchase budget and ownership cost, use that frame work to construct the best coach that will fit into it. At this point in time you may have a gross idea of size diesel pusher or gas... new versus used. You may even have a specific manufacturer you're interested in. These choices, especially the make and model, ought to flow from your wants and needs. WANTS AND NEEDS Go to work figuring out what you want in terms of livability and travel-ability. A good place to start is deciding if you're going to be a parker or a driver. Most motor homes are better suited to one or the other. Coaches with lots of slides are terrific when parked, but coaches with fewer slides may seem roomier when driving down the road with the slides in. Things to think about if you're a driver include how much room there is to move around with the sliders closed, and access to such things as storage areas and facilities like the washer/dryer. The next and crucial step is to figure out what you think you want for power train, chassis, floor plan, features, amenities, and gadgets. Look at a lot of coaches, even trailers, and see what combinations seem to fit your lifestyle the best. As you get immersed in the process, I think you will find some of your original thoughts will change. The following checklist will give you some things to consider. Keep in mind that the right coach is out there; it just takes hard work to find it. Will you spend more waking hours driving or parked? What features need to be accessible while driving? How many people do you need to sleep? Is a queen-sized bed appropriate? How long will you be using the coach at a stretch? (weekends versus long trips) How much storage will you require? How fussy are you about the quality of workmanship in furnishings? How much counter space do you want in the kitchen? How often will you use an oven or washer/dryer? Will a dinette or table and chairs suit you best? How much privacy do you want for the bathroom? Does anyone require upgraded seats or bed? Will you tolerate losing speed on hills? Are you concerned about miles per gallon or emissions controls? How far do you want to be able to travel between fuel stops? How much capacity do you want for water, black, and grey tanks? Do you require pass-through storage for long items? Do you want basement doors that open in a specific direction? (to the side or up like a bus) How important is soundproofing or insulation? How important is entertainment, inside or outside? How many televisions, and where? Speakers or refrigerator in basement to use when camped? Can you find the features you want in a used coach? Livability... Casual Use to Full Timing RESEARCH Buying a motor home is easy... the hard part is selecting the one that will best fit your needs. Do a lot of looking and as much research as you can. Take notes about what you like and dislike in each coach you see. Do not accept that what you want is not available. After our first month of looking, we had a floor plan we liked but everything else was wrong. We almost bought that floor plan because we were beginning to think what we wanted was not available or economically attainable. Any fool can buy a motor home; the trick is not to be foolhardy about the process of selecting the one. Some people are smarter than we are; it took us months of intensive research, giving up every week end visiting dealers, hours of reading magazines, exploring all the internet sales sites, and forum surfing. In the end, we looked at 26 different models from 12 different manufacturers, and test drove most of them. We also visited a multitude of factories and found people to discuss ideas and assumptions. One thing to keep in mind, make sure that you adopt your own ideas and make your own priorities for features and functions. Others will have valuable insights, but those insights and perspectives will reflect their own priorities. As you listen, try to understand not only what they think is important, but also why. Get as many variant opinions as you can in arriving at your own conclusions. What's perfect for one can be a horrible mismatch for another. There is no substitute for spending time in a prospective coach, visualizing daily routines in terms of workability and comfort and convenience... sit in every seating position, open and close everything that will do so, adjust anything that has an adjustment, especially the driver's and passenger's seats. Lie down on the bed, open up any convertible couches and test them for comfort. Walk through meal preparation and maneuvering around in the coach with a full complement of people and pets, both with sliders in and out. Go through the exercise both indoors and outdoors. Open the sliders and the awnings at the same time to check angles and clearances. Think through loading and unloading: is there enough space and is it easily accessible? See how cords and hoses roll in and out. Do not expect that what you will get is any better than what you see in the showroom. So many times I got that response to an inquiry about a noticeable defect in terms of fit, finish, or operation. As you are deciding on the coach and examining the details of fit and finish, do not limit you looking to the interior. Look hard in all the equipment bays and in the engine compartment. A lot of unnecessary breakdowns are set up when the coach is mated to the chassis, look for hoses and wiring too close to heat source or that will rub, abrade, or get pinched, look for lapses in sealing seams. In other words, fit and finish has two flavors: cosmetic and functional. If what you can see looks slipshod, then what you can not see is not going to be any better. Choosing Gasoline or Diesel Powered? SELECTING THE DEALER It seems that a lot of dissatisfaction that people experience lies at the doorstep of the dealer they choose. In other cases, I think some buyers have unrealistic expectations about how the dealer will react to their concerns and problems. Thorough vetting out of the dealer is of utmost importance. Talk to as many people as you can who have done business with the dealer. Also have some very frank discussions with your perspective dealer, starting with the salesperson, and then a review of your expectations with the salesperson and the sales manager together. Be specific, give examples, and require specific responses. Do not accept "You're in good hands All-State" responses. TAKING DELIVERY When you go to pick up your coach from the dealer have a thorough checklist of items to check. Do the inspection systematically. There are several lists already created that you can use as a starter. Here are a few thoughts. „« Do not schedule your pick up of your new motor home on a Friday or a day before a holiday. That way the pressure to get it done will be lessened and there will be time for corrections to be made. Have extra time built into your schedule. Have a place to stay so there is no need to rush the inspection if you're picking up your coach remotely from where you live. „« Make sure that all the documentation and manuals are present. Do an inventory and do not forget to get a list of all the serial and model numbers for all the warrantee registration. It's the job of the dealer to provide that. „« Operate and test everything. Make sure you can do it yourself... and then do it, and have your companion do it. We got the in motion satellite and the home entertainment system; I am still the only one who can operate them... „« Take notes of what you see that bothers you or questions that come to mind. If you don't get satisfactory answers to your question, just ask them again and again until you're satisfied. You have paid a lot of money for those answers. „« Question anything you do not understand. Make sure you and spouse do not leave with any unanswered question... Nothing worse than to discover something and then hear the words, "I was wondering about that." „« Do not assume anything has been checked or is working properly. Check them yourself, especially fluids and tire pressures... which means bring a suitable tire gauge. It would also be useful to have one of those indoor/ outdoor thermometers with a remote sensor to check air conditioner and heat performance, including the dash air. „« If at all possible, go through the manuals and documentation before you do your acceptance inspection. Just take a couple of hours off in a corner; you will be amazed at the questions that will pop up. It's better to do that before you do your walk through. „« Use one of the many cookbook PDA lists that are around. The best one I found was at http://www.rversonline.org/ArtFactoryPickup.html There is also a special section on air brakes on the rversonline site. „« Do a test drive that will approximate how you will drive your motor home. „« Go into the process expecting to have glitches and some your expectations not to be met. Focus on resolutions instead of recriminations. Don't let someone else's ignorance spoil what should be a very special day!! OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE From my own experience and what insights I have gained from private discussions with a number of first time buyers, the really tough issue is nailing down your wants, needs, and priorities and then overlaying the price one will have to pay. In our case we spent more than we originally set out to spend, but less than I could have. Deciding which manufacturer was not the starting point, it was the place to end... Here are some of our answers to the questions I posed above: Will you be a driver or a parker... In our case we are drivers. We tend to drive a lot and never stay in one place for very long while others will pick a destination, go there and plant themselves for a period of time, then return home. We wanted the maximum of space in the coach when the sliders were closed which was a governing factor in determining floor plan and the number of sliders. We also wanted certain key storage areas accessible and wanted access to the washer/dryer with the sliders closed. We wanted to maximize the kitchen counter space and be able to use the seating area and table while underway or for those times we stop in route. So we opted for a dinette which has the advantage being able to convert into a sleeping position (albeit for a short person). We also preferred not to deal with the chairs while underway which have a tendency to want to move around if not securely strapped down. In terms of the bathroom, we wanted the toilet area separate from the shower and sink. We wanted to be able to separate the bathroom from the bedroom and the living area for those times when there would be others on board besides my wife and me. We also chose to eliminate the up-front TV for increased visibility and to avoid a source for bumping heads. We wanted it placed elsewhere in the coach and at eye level so we wouldn't crane our necks up to watch. We needed a floor plan that would comfortably sleep 5. How far do you want to be able to travel between fuel stops... how much capacity do you want for water, black, and grey tanks... These are good issues to raise on forums; you will get a wide variety of answers. We arbitrarily decided we wanted a 1000 miles for fuel, and 3 to 5 days capacity for water and holding tanks. It helps to be reasonable and recognize that it's better to start with the minimum you are willing to settle for and then the maximum you're willing to pay for. Be conservative in your estimates. We wanted to have pass-through storage in the basement as well as sliding drawers, which eliminated some coaches including one that had our favorite floor plan in it. While you're thinking about storage, keep in mind there are different options for the type of doors used on basement storage. Aside from the conventional, there are bus style doors that cantilever up and out of the way, as well as side opening doors. Our coach has all three types. We put a premium on insulation and the soundproofing of the coach when parked, so we paid attention to the specs and tested the noise level in the coach in terms of isolating the inside from the outside. We were focused on not being disturbed and not disturbing our neighbors. We wanted the coach to be as quiet as possible on the road as well as when parked. We opted not to buy used, although there are many compelling reason to do so: initial cost and the potential that new coach bugs would be worked out. Part of our criteria was to bypass anything that had not had continual use, since disuse often accelerates the deterioration of such things as seals, hoses, belts and the like. In the end, we concluded we were unlikely to find a match for our wants and needs in a used coach and focused on going the new coach route. Once we decided we wanted a new coach, we soon discovered that it was going to require us to order one to get exactly what we wanted and would fit into our budget. So we began to reduce the number of potential manufacturers from 12 down to 3 since the others did not offer what we wanted or their level of fit and finish wasn't acceptable to me. Having said that, I believe that with minor exceptions many of the manufacturers we deselected would have worked for us, had their offerings been a match to our wants and needs. We placed a priority on which manufacturers would give us the most flexibility to make minor alterations to their standard fare; that got the list down to 2. In the end, we chose the one that gave us the most flexibility. Their reputation for warrantee support was also a determining factor, but any of the final three would have given terrific support based on their reputation. In our case, we did not place a high premium on after sale dealer support. This is not a course I would recommend for every one but our situation was such that we were comfortable in taking on the responsibility of managing our service needs. It did take some work to establish a network of support once we bought. We have been fortunate to have had only one coach related issue, which was very minor. Other problems we have had were with the generator and our satellite system, where we dealt directly with the manufacturers with satisfactory results. We found both the coach manufacturer and the manufacturers of the specific components were very helpful in answering any questions that popped up. When our coach was being built, I visited the factory to follow progress on the construction, timing the visit so I would be able to inspect what I was expecting in terms of wiring, plumbing, and interior construction. I was able to see our coach and other coaches down the line so I inspected each step of the build process. This post will raise more questions than it answers which in part was the intent, and the offer up a process to get the answers... If you interest is in Buying A Used Motorhome Here are Some Thoughts For First Time Buyers Good luck in your odyssey it's a worthwhile journey. JohnnyTFire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
For specific information; NORCOLD RECALLS 11/20/2010 Fire Hazard - Appliance Recalls - Norcold, Samsung and more Norcold Refrigerators------- Updated serial number coverage Norcold Recall Information as of 2/13/2010 Samsung Microwave Ovens Mr. Heater Heaters First Alert Smoke & CO Detector Recall Dometic Refrigerator Recall New Dometic Recall Initiated March 11, 2008Class A Frequently Asked Questions Updated 7/10/2015
The purpose of the thread is to provide sort of a repository of noteworthy threads... There is such a wealth of valuable information available. If you think there is a thread or a post that would be a help to others send me a PM or email with the title " Moderator Corner Suggestion" along with a link... I cannot guarantee that I will include all of them but I will review each one...For the most part the threads selected have been suggested as a sticky in the past.. If you feel that any of the threads or posts that are referenced here are not worthwhile let me know also, Again send me a PM or email with the title " Moderator Corner Suggestions and I will consider your input... I plan to update this thread from time to time and will post the date of the update in the topic title. Feel Free To reply to any of the threads or to start your own Discussion by initiating your own thread... If you choose to start a thread, please post to the appropriate forum. Recall's &TSB'S Recalls and TSB's Attention Owners of Monaco 2001-2004 Coaches Monaco RR4R Chassis Trailing Arm Problem Recall's NORCOLD Recall: Possibility of Fire! Norcold Recall Information DOMETIC REFRIGERATOR RECALL....POSSIBLE FIRE HAZARD Fire Hazard - Appliance Recalls Great Projects Home built Genturi With Parts List Informational Forum Links FAQ Forum Conduct Posting Pictures in Signature The New Search Engine, a Tutorial Searching the Archives, a tutorial Instant Phone and WiFi Parks - US & Canada Cell Phone Internet Access Recipe Archive Links to Traffic, Road Constructions and Highway Conditions and other Helpful Sites Blow out video, what to do when it happens Posting Suggestions Be specific Please Post Solutions Topics of note Supplemental Brake Systems Diesel Engine auxillary Brakes Tire Pressure Gauges Ride Height, Weight Distribution, and Alignment Raising The Wheels Off The Ground While Leveling.. What Are The Issues? Cummins engine info The power equation...Horsepower- Torque -Gear Ratio- Weight Choosing Gasoline or Diesel Powered? Livability... Casual Use to Full Timing Livability... Casual Use to Full Timing Performance Coach/RV Performance Cummins Power Spec Allison Mode Button What Makes A Coach Stable ? Some Thoughts on Improving MPG..Driving Techniques Thoughts on MPG II.... Aero, Weight, Rolling Resistance Preventive Maintenance Neglected Maintenance Items Fuel Filter and Priming Pump for Freightliner chassis Tips for buying a used motorhome Buying A Used Motorhome, Some Tips For First Time Buyers Determining Fair Market Value For A Used Motorhome Determining Fair Market Value For A Used Motorhome Tips on selling Best Way To Sell A Motorhome. Advice to Sellers Technology Surges, High and low Voltage, Miswired Pedestals Satellite Radio Installation WIFI Repeater Technical Issues Kwikee Step Wiring Norcold 1200 Reset Procedure If your Atwood water heater quits, try this... Pre 1999 Cummins 5.9L ALERT Batteries The 12 Volt Side of Life Part 1 The 12 Volt Side of Life Part 2 Dinghy's Homemade Tow Guard Miscellaneous Salvage Yards List of Salvage Yards Online Selling Sites Laws regarding transporting firearms General Interest Question about Class A with young kids Happy Camper or Frustrated Owner? JohnnyT
Anyone make a mistake buying first MH ?
Just curious.. No matter how much research you do , it seems there is no substitute for owning and using a MH.. Anyone buy one and then realize you made a mistake on the first one.. If so, how did you rectify it. I haven't felt this way yet and hope I don't.. With all that is involved, I could see it happening.. I believe the best advice I got was to buy an older one and then see what you really want by trial and error..
How to fix Dometic Comfort Control thermostat problems
Here is how to fix the most common dometic thermostat problems for the 4 and 5 button Comfort Control thermostats. Dometic support is awful and there are a lot of folks out there spending large sums of money on new thermostats and upper board conversion kits. With this posting you can save yourself big bucks. I am a geek and figured it all out. There are procedures here you will not find anyplace else. Below are the 3 most common problems and the way to fix them. AC UNITS TURN OFF WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS, THERMOSTAT WILL NOT TURN ON, OR WILL NOT STAY ON: -- The on/off switch on the thermostat probably has cracked solder joints. Re-solder the switch to the board and make sure the switch is snug on the circuit board so the solder does not crack again. Use a small 25-watt soldering iron with a finer tip on it. Of course, use electronic solder, not the solder used from plumbing! (Note: Dometic boards are famous for cold solder joints -- you might need to touch up the other solder points -- but don't try to do the microprocessor unless you know what you are doing.) -- Also, soak the power switch with spray contact cleaner and operate the switch a few times. -- If the above does not work, you might need to take the switch off the board, take it apart and fix it (you won't find a replacement for this switch on the internet due to the long paddle on it). -- These switches were not properly mounted to the circuit board in the first place. You might have a cracked trace on the circuit board, which can be fixed by carefully scraping the green backing off the board with a small razor knife and soldering a small piece of solid wire (such as telephone wire) across the crack. PUSHBUTTONS DO NOT WORK PROPERLY (Note: the logic on the board triggers functions when a button is released, not when it is pressed. You have to let go of the button before a function is processed.) Clean the switches. Remove the PC board from the housing. Do this in a clean work area so you don't lose any parts. Using a small flat jewelers screwdriver, carefully prise the locking tabs holding the top of the switch on the base JUST ENOUGH to pull the top of the switch off. Be sure not to lose any parts. Clean the contacts with spray contact cleaner and perhaps Q-tips. Snap the top back on the switch. TEMPERATURE SENSING PROBLEMS: First you have to understand how the system works. For zone 1, the thermistor (little yellow thing near the thermostat on/off switch) inside the thermostat is usually used. If a remote sensor is plugged into the AC unit upper board (the white 2-pin plug), then the remote sensor is automatically activated by the thermostat and the temperature sensing electronics inside the thermostat is disabled. Do not bother trying to fix the electronics on the thermostat. It is complicated nonlinear circuitry and can't be fixed since Dometic provides no documentation. Zone 2 usually has a remote sensor wired to the rear upper AC unit board. The temperature is processed by circuitry on the rear AC upper board. Look for a white nylon 2-pin connector on the upper board to see if a sensor is connected to it. NOTE: In both cases, if a remote sensor is used, the electronics on the upper board are used to read and process signals for that zone from the thermistor. If communications between the boards and thermostat are hung up, it won't work right and there is no telling what it will do. NOTE: If you are going to unplug the thermostat from the phone connector, always turn the thermostat off first, and also be sure the thermostat off before plugging the connector back in. If the thermostat is on when you unplug it or plug it back in, communications will not establish. For testing, you need a thermometer from around the house so you can see what the real room temp is. Use a fan blowing on the home thermometer and the thermostat so you don't have to wait all day for thermostat and thermometer to sync up. Dometic says these thermostats are accurate to +/- 5 degrees, which is abysmal. My experience is that they are usually within +/- 3 degrees (lousy). You will probably have to live with it if your thermostat is in this range. If your thermostat isn't turning on/off at the right temperature (+/- 3 degrees), here is what to do (in this order): 1. Clearing communications issues: your unit can get into a situation where the thermostat is not communicating with one or both upper boards. Turn the thermostat off, and turn power to the AC units off and on. Then turn the thermostat on and see if it works better. 2. Reset the thermostat to factory specs. This can correct some problems with invalid temperature measurement when the thermistor inside the thermostat is being used. This sequence definitely works with 4-button thermostats. I do not have a 5-button unit to test so I cannot say if it works on 5-button thermostats. Do the following in the order below: -- Turn the thermostat on -- press any button once -- press and hold the bottom 2 buttons in -- press and release the mode button one time -- release the bottom 2 buttons -- press and release the mode button -- if you did the above sequence correctly, the thermostat backlight will turn off. If it does not turn off, do the above sequence again. 3. Rear unit: If the temperature setting still does not work right, the problem is in the upper board (not reading the remote sensor thermistor correctly). Get a new upper board (available on the internet) 4. Front unit without remote sensor: Since the thermostats are no longer available and the circuitry not repairable, install a remote sensor 3106486.008 in your front AC unit. Just plug it into the upper board and the thermostat will use it. You will have to figure out how to route the thermistor down into the RV. If this does not work, the upper board is bad and needs to be replaced. 2. Front AC with remote sensor: Either the thermistor sensor is bad, or the circuitry on the upper board is bad. The sensors rarely go bad, but you can check the sensor with an ohmmeter. Unplug the sensor from the white plug on the upper board, and measure the resistance. The resistance should be about 7.2k at 70 degrees, 9.8k at 60 degrees, or 12.4k at 50 degrees. If you are seeing no resistance, then the thermistor is definitely bad If the thermistor is good, replace the upper board.restoring 1987 holaday Rambler
I have purchased a 1987 Motor home and am fixing it up as money is available. I have replaced the passenger side brake line and caliper and now have three wheels that lock up when you stomp on the breaks. This is much better then the one or two that were working on the harrowing drive home after the purchase. The air pumps are being removed at this time as the driver side one is locked up. The passenger side one seems to be working, but there is a hole in the part mounted on the header that is causing a little ticking sound. The header parts will be welded up at a later date when I can bribe my people with a appropriate reward. I have changed the passenger side spark plugs, the old ones had a gap of around 80 to 85 thousand when I took them out. They did have a nice tan color. The driver side plugs will be replaced next, along with the cap and rotor. The front air bags are holding pressure, and the front suspension has been greased with new grease. It has some sort of stabilizer made from mounting two large springs on the front and rear of the lower control arm. I will be asking some ???? when I get to the parts I don't under stand.
