110 hookup only ???

ddndoug wrote:

supercub wrote:
Have never done this before. I'm hooking up were there's only 110 service available. What do I do?? Will that keep the batteries charged, assuming I only run the TV etc. No Air Conditioners, I know. Would I plug into the 110 and then turn the invertor on and run off that or ?? Thanks

Even though the 50 & 30 amp RV plugs look like 220V plugs, they are actually 110V.

If you have a 30 Amp cord/RV you can buy a 30A to 15A adapter just about anywhere. They're less than $10 and Wally World almost always has them in stock in the stores. 15A to 30A adapter

If you have a 50A RV/cord, you can buy one of these which I have done. 50A cord adapter. It does a great job for keeping the batteries charged, running the frig, providing 110V to RV outlets, and running one A/C unit. (I have 20A circuits in my garage.) They're a little pricey, but very few people make them and even fewer stock them.

Actually I have built almost one of every type of adapter over the last couple of years just to make sure I have whatever I will need.

Doug

Actually a 50 amp RV plug is bringing in 220 volts to the main breaker in your RV. On some RV's, 220 volts is used on the drier. At your main panel in your RV, the 220 power is split in to the 120 volt circuits for the use in your coach.

JohnoO2 wrote:
All RV power is 110V.

4x4van wrote:
EVERYWHERE you hook up, is only 110VAC service.

ddndoug wrote:
Even though the 50 & 30 amp RV plugs look like 220V plugs, they are actually 110V.

These statements aren't quite true. Any properly wired 50A RV receptacle/pedestal will have 240VAC available across the two hots. MOST RVs only have 120VAC appliances, so there are no 240VAC outlets inside the RV. But 240VAC is available inside the RV breaker panel. All electric RVs may have 240VAC appliances.

~Rick

rgatijnet1 wrote:
On a single 120 volt outlet I have been able to run one AC as well as the TV and lights. I switch off the AC when using the microwave.
The WH is on propane as is the refrigerator.
It just requires energy management and watching the meter to see how many amps you are drawing.

X-2, I've done this before Brian, but you don't want to do this in extreme heat!

supercub wrote:
Have never done this before. I'm hooking up were there's only 110 service available. What do I do?? Will that keep the batteries charged, assuming I only run the TV etc. No Air Conditioners, I know. Would I plug into the 110 and then turn the invertor on and run off that or ?? Thanks

Even though the 50 & 30 amp RV plugs look like 220V plugs, they are actually 110V.

If you have a 30 Amp cord/RV you can buy a 30A to 15A adapter just about anywhere. They're less than $10 and Wally World almost always has them in stock in the stores. 15A to 30A adapter

If you have a 50A RV/cord, you can buy one of these which I have done. 50A cord adapter. It does a great job for keeping the batteries charged, running the frig, providing 110V to RV outlets, and running one A/C unit. (I have 20A circuits in my garage.) They're a little pricey, but very few people make them and even fewer stock them.

Actually I have built almost one of every type of adapter over the last couple of years just to make sure I have whatever I will need.

Doug

supercub wrote:
Have never done this before. I'm hooking up were there's only 110 service available. What do I do?? Will that keep the batteries charged, assuming I only run the TV etc. No Air Conditioners, I know. Would I plug into the 110 and then turn the invertor on and run off that or ?? Thanks

EVERYWHERE you hook up, is only 110VAC service. Do you mean that there is only a small 15A plug for the hookup? Plugging in to shore power (even a 15A plug) will provide 110VAC at your outlets and will provide 12vdc through the converter for lights, water pump, etc and battery charging. If you want to run AC, you'll likely need a 110VAC 30A supply.

On 15 amp (regular house-type outlet/wiring), you can easily keep batteries charged, refrigerator on electric and a few other small things.

If batteries are deeply discharged and you have a big inverter/charger, be sure to set the "power share/power save" feature to 5 amps. Plenty to charge up the batteries-- it just takes a little longer, BUT allows amps for other purposes.

We get by with 110...no a/c, micro, other high usage stuff.
With us using all LED lights, fridge/freezer, water heater, TV, only popped breaker one time and that was coffee maker and toaster on at same time.

On a single 120 volt outlet I have been able to run one AC as well as the TV and lights. I switch off the AC when using the microwave.
The WH is on propane as is the refrigerator.
It just requires energy management and watching the meter to see how many amps you are drawing.

Do you have an inverter (12 volt to 110 volt OR a converter 110 volt to 12volt). If converter you can use the 110 to power the TV and the converter will charge the batt. for the 12 volt lights etc. may even run the refrigerator if you don't add to many other 110 items,(heater, hot water heater,etc.). If inverter I'd just use it to charge the batt.

20 amp will take care of chArging and tv not to much more . Will run microwave or air on it's own. 30 amp will run charge and 2 ,appliances.