110 hookup only ???

supercub wrote:
Would I plug into the 110 and then turn the invertor on and run off that or ?? Thanks

I'd really like to know what this means

So much of the time it's not about answering a question, it's about saying what you know.

WOW. So many "assumptions" and incorrect information.
Maybe we will hear from the OP with some details.

arrrggg..

All voltages in the USA as long as I remember is called 120V / 240V..

Not 110, 115, 220, 230...etc...as stated below.

The OP has a 50 amp plug as he has two A/C's

First lets ask what adapter are you using as they are not all created equal.. Some will only power 1/2 the RV as both legs in the adapter are not tied together...

In either scenerio you will only be limited to 15 amps regardless..

Are you going 15 -30 - 50 or just 15 - 50?

Whats the make and model of the adapter?

You will not have issues but need to watch what you use..

15 amp (standard house type outlet): 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. Supplies up to 15 amps @ 120 VAC

30 amp RV: 1 hot, one neutral, one ground. Supplies up to 30 amps @ 120 VAC.

50 amp RV: 2 hots (240 VAC as measured between the two hots), one neutral, one ground. Supplies up to 100 amps @ 120 VAC (50 per hot). Just a with a stick and brick house, you could wire appliances to the two hots (240 VAC), but most all house appliances (exceptions are electric water heater, stove, oven, electric clothes dryer, A/C, etc-- the big stuff) AND MOST ALL RV appliances use only ONE HOT, so they are 120 VAC.

Johno02 wrote:
All RV power is 110V. What amperage and type of plug is what counts.

Not true, 50 amp service is in fact 230 volts at the pedestal

And nobody can figure out what he meant? Not all of us are electricians. Clearly he meant he only had a household type outlet to plug into.

To the OP, I plug in to a regular household plug at my house all the time. I normally switch the frig to run on the 12 volt side if I'm using anything else. I can get one of my A/C units to run, but haven't tried both as I just assume that won't work. I'm going to guess you have a auto-switch so if you plug the RV in to any outlet with power, your 110volt system is going to switch to all be powered from there and your inverter gets disconnected. So you can't use both, at least that is how my motorhome is set up and I'm pretty sure most are that way.

AllegroD wrote:

J-Rooster wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
On a single 120 volt outlet I have been able to run one AC as well as the TV and lights. I switch off the AC when using the microwave.
The WH is on propane as is the refrigerator.
It just requires energy management and watching the meter to see how many amps you are drawing.

X-2, I've done this before Brian, but you don't want to do this in extreme heat!

If you do this and do not have an PI EMS that shuts down current at 104v, I suggest you get a Kill-A-Watt and plug it in. Of course you will want to check occasionally. If current drops to 104V, turn off the A/C. If you let the A/C run at 104 or below, you will start incurring heat damage and shorten the life.

I do have the PI EMS but I believes it shuts down the power when it drops to 108 volts. If a 120 volt outlet is wired properly, you should be able to draw the maximum amount of amps without any significant voltage drop, just like any outlet in your home. If you have to run a long extension cord to the 120 volt outlet, then you may have a voltage drop. Just using your large 50 amp RV cord, and the adapters, hooked up to a properly wired 120 volt outlet, should be fine without a significant voltage drop altho it is not a bad idea to monitor it to insure that it was wired with the correct gauge wire.

4x4van wrote:
Do you mean that there is only a small 15A plug for the hookup?

yes

Ricks right again!!

J-Rooster wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
On a single 120 volt outlet I have been able to run one AC as well as the TV and lights. I switch off the AC when using the microwave.
The WH is on propane as is the refrigerator.
It just requires energy management and watching the meter to see how many amps you are drawing.

X-2, I've done this before Brian, but you don't want to do this in extreme heat!

If you do this and do not have an PI EMS that shuts down current at 104v, I suggest you get a Kill-A-Watt and plug it in. Of course you will want to check occasionally. If current drops to 104V, turn off the A/C. If you let the A/C run at 104 or below, you will start incurring heat damage and shorten the life.