Changed Fuel Filter – Drain Won’t Stop

Great, glad it started. Thanks for the update.

Problem solved. In case anyone hits this thread searching a similar problem, here’s what I learned:

1) Why use drain lever?: My complications occurred because I used the drain lever to evacuate fuel before changing the paper filter cartridge (per the Cummins manual instructions). Four different mechanics told me the same thing; they never bother to drain the fuel. They just plop in the new cartridge and o-ring. They said to not worry about the few ounces of fuel in the canister. I’m not an expert, not making a recommendation for anyone else, but I know what I’m doing the next time.

2) Replacing drain valve: The filter drain levers do go bad (if you chose to use them), but are an easy fix. I did have to remove the banjo bolts on the incoming and outgoing filter lines, and completely remove the filter canister (for easy access to the 4 little torx bolts holding the drain lever assembly). But still an easy fix.

3) Self Priming Usually Works: My ISB has a self priming fuel system and the instructions in the manual for priming have worked in the past (I’ve not pre-filled the fuel filters in the past). However this time, when I completely removed the canister, too much air was in the lines and I had to vent them.

4) Vent Fuel Lines: To vent the lines, the manual says to “loosen the banjo fitting on the fuel pump inlet”. Took me a while to find it. I tracked the fuel line from the canister to a box buried behind several other components, and saw that I could get a 17mm wrench on the bolt through the banjo fitting. Luckily, all I needed to do was loosen it 1/2 turn (it would have been complicated to take the bolt completely out). Then, I had a helper turn the ignition key just enough to bump the starter. At this point the fuel system was active for ~25 seconds. Fuel started seeping out the loose banjo bolt. After several seconds of good flow, I tightened it.

5) Alternate Venting Technique: One of the mechanics told me to loosen 2 or 3 of the injectors where they go into the cylinder head (instead of at the intake to the fuel pump), then vent with the same procedure. The injectors would have been easy to get to, but I was concerned about not being able to torque them properly. I figured the fuel pump banjo bolt technique was less risky, even if it was more difficult to get to.

6) All OK: Air is now out of the lines, engine started. Took it on 20 minute drive, all OK.

Again, just sharing what worked for me (a non-mechanic).

CVD wrote:
This is turning out to be a difficult day for simple tasks (simple the last time I did them). I now have a fuel canister that won’t stop draining.

I replaced the paper filter cartridge. Very simple: Lift the vertical drain lever (on the side of the canister), let fuel drain into a bucket for a minute, twist off cap (with 1/2” ratchet), pull out old paper filter and large o-ring, insert in new filter and o-ring, put cap back on, lower lever, and ready to prime/start it up.

The problem is when I turn the key to activate the fuel pump and start priming, fuel pours out the drain at the bottom of the canister (even with the vertical drain lever “down”).

I did break off a cap that was on that drain outlet. When I was first feeling around for the drain lever, I felt the plastic cap over the drain. Thinking it was something that should come off, I twisted it. It broke (crumpled). But, it looked like it was simply a dust cover of some sort.

Here’s the canister. You can barely see the drain lever on the right side:


Here’s the canister from the bottom The drain is at the bottom:



Anyone else had problems with the "drain continuing to drain” after a filter change?

Thx,

Not sure what type of MH you have. Fleedguard filters are usually on Cummins, if so you may want to give them a call.

CUMMINS PACIFIC, LLC (02074)
3061 S. RIVERSIDE AVE
BLOOMINGTON California 92316-3527
United States
Tel: (909) 877-0433
Fax: (909) 877-3787

Update – Success on original problem, now need help venting the fuel lines.

Success - after talking to a couple mechanics, I figured the drain lever was bad. I picked one up from LA Freightliner ($15-). Easy install. The drain is now controllable.

Air in lines – Now it won’t start, must be air in the lines (I did have to completely remove the fuel filter canister to swap the drain lever). I went through the priming cycle of turning the engine over, leaving the key on for 20 – 25 seconds (while the fuel pump is going), then turn it over for 10 seconds to start it up. I did this cycle 4 – 5 times, won’t start.

Per the manual, I need to “vent the fuel supply lines”. Two questions:

1) It says to “loosen the banjo fitting on the fuel pump inlet” The only banjo fitting I see is on the side of the filter canister. Is this the fitting the manual is talking about (it is the highest point in the fuel system)?

2) The next step is “run the electric fuel transfer pump until all the air has been bled”. How do I run it; by ignition key or some other way?

Thanks,

Open the drain valve lever and rotate side to side to reseat and then close the valve. It doesn't rotate very far, maybe 20-30 degrees, don't force it.

Mine did that years ago and I called Cummins hotline.... it worked afterwards.

However my filter, same one, does not have a 'cap' on the drain, could that be part of the drain housing that came off..??

I think your drain valve has hung open.
Remove filter cap and check drain valve.....might be jammed or lever doesn't move it.