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ricelake922's avatar
ricelake922
Explorer
Sep 28, 2015

How to blow out lines to winterize

Hello. I have always paid to winterized my RV but would really like to learn how to do it myself without just pouring antifreeze down the toilet and sinks. I would really like to use air on the lines butl do not have a clue. Can someone please tell me using the KISS principle on how to do this task. I am placing the RV indoors for the winter. Thank you in advance.

58 Replies

  • Some systems have 3 valves on the tank side of the heater. You may have to find them by removing an access panel on the inside of your RV. Two normally open, to allow cold water in and hot out. One "bypass" closed. In winterizing, after blowing out all the other lines, the last thing is to pull the tank plug to blow/drain anything remaining in the heater.
    If you are also going to use antifreeze, you close the hot/cold valves, and open the bypass. Then use the water pump to push the antifreeze through the entire system. (it too has valves to stop taking the water from the tank, and instead pull from a short hose that you stick into a bottle of antifreeze - usually found right near where the pump itself is mounted). The heater bypass is done so that you don't have to fill up the heater with 3-6 gallons of antifreeze before it begins to get to the rest of the plumbing!
    My fifth wheel needs about 2 gal of antifreeze to do everything, and I get a little liberal on what I pour down the drains.
    Takes me about an hour, but could easily be done a lot faster.
    The dealer charges $145 to do it!

    To recap, in terms of my method and experience with my unit:
    (And, I should note, I do both as a belt and suspenders thing because it gets REALLY cold in Minnesota!)

    All water and holding tanks should be completely empty to start. Run your water pump as needed to drain the water tank.
    You can open the gray water valves, as you will be only dumping clean water on the ground, and perhaps a little antifreeze, which is safe and completely non-toxic. Leave the black tank closed.

    Unhook shower lines and let hang.

    Hook compressor up to city water outlet, using adaptor noted in another reply. Set to 40 lb (Jayco recommended). Start air flow.
    Progressively open each faucet, both hot and cold, until just air comes out. Do not forget showers, toilets and any outside faucets. Open "Low Point" drains, and again make sure only air comes out. It may surprise you on how many repeats of the above you need before you get all the water out.

    Turn off air for a minute. Open a faucet to relieve pressure. Pull main drain plug from the heater. Turn on air again, and blow out any remaining water in the heater.

    If not using antifreeze, you're done - go to the drains (following).

    If using antifreeze, set the heater valves to bypass the heater. At the pump turn off the water line from the water tank, and turn on the suction hose, put it in a bottle of antifreeze. Run all taps until pink stuff comes out. Include toilet, showers (with hoses detached), outside taps and low point drains.
    Drains - pour antifreeze down drains - about a cup, more if you haven't already put some down by running it through the taps. Don't forget shower and some in the unflushed toilet.
    Close gray water valves.
    Reset the valves for the water pump to be able to draw from the water tank again. Leave the heater bypassed.
    Done!

    You can get by not using a compressor at all, and just pump antifreeze through everything. It will probably take more to ensure that you've replaced all the water with antifreeze. Still do the heater bypass thing, but you'll be letting it drain naturally, rather than forcing anything out with air pressure).

    In the spring - don't forget to reset the heater bypass valves! Otherwise, just run all water a lot to flush out the pink stuff.
  • Effy's avatar
    Effy
    Explorer II
    Not sure I understand the issue with antifreeze. I can do my whole coach with 1.5 gals of antifreeze and takes literally 5 minutes and zero risk. Hook up the hose to the jug and let the pump pull it through. Couldn't be easier. Just not sure what the issue is. Maybe I am missing something.
  • tinkerer wrote:
    I have went from the ant-freeze method to the air clean out and won't be going back to the ant-freeze except for the drains. Go to a RV store and they have the adapter for adapting the air to your water system. I always leave one faucet open when pressurizing the system so I don't over pressurize the lines. I always go around the system twice to make sure all the water is purged. I generally start with the drains on the hot and cold water drains on my water system. I have had zero problems with water freezing, and don't have to put up with the anti-freeze in the lines.:)



    X2, I leave compressor run for about 20 minutes with everything open, then I leave all faucets, drains, and shower open. That way any trace of water in lines will evaporate. Also leave water heater drain plug open.
  • FIRST, drain the fresh water tank and open all "low point drains". Drain the water heater (inspect the anode rod, if equipped. You may want to buy a new one.). Empty and flush the waste tanks.
    Be sure your air compressor has an oil and water separator in the air line. Use 3/8 inch air hose. close all drains. Set the compressor output to 55 or 60 PSI, then connect the air line to the shore water connection. Open and close each and every valve in the plumbing system several times. Don't forget the toilet or the outdoor shower. Remove the strainer from the pump, clean and dry it. Give the tank to pump line a shot of air to flush any water out. Run the pump until no water comes out. Put about a pint of RV antifreeze in each drain trap and in the toilet.
    If there is any doubt in your mind, open the drain valves again. if water runs out, do it over, you didn't get all the water out!
    I don't care what anybody says, I have done it this way for years, and it DOES work! Quite well, in fact.
  • I have went from the ant-freeze method to the air clean out and won't be going back to the ant-freeze except for the drains. Go to a RV store and they have the adapter for adapting the air to your water system. I always leave one faucet open when pressurizing the system so I don't over pressurize the lines. I always go around the system twice to make sure all the water is purged. I generally start with the drains on the hot and cold water drains on my water system. I have had zero problems with water freezing, and don't have to put up with the anti-freeze in the lines.:)
  • Effy's avatar
    Effy
    Explorer II
    A lot of folks swear by the air only method. Keep in mind that even though you blow out the lines does not mean water can't accumulate in low spots and still cause a problem.
  • You need an air compressor set to about 60 PSI and a air chuck fitting that connects to your incoming water line that looks like this.
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/14504303?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227017126048&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42530181032&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=89280745505&veh=sem

    Once you get setup, you just get some air connected and then open one faucet in the coach at a time to allow the air to blow all the water out of the system. You do this with the cold and the hot lines separately. You may need to do each a couple of times just to get the last bit but even a little water left behind will do no damage since any ice that forms will have plenty of room to expand and will not cause any issues. You will still need some RV anti-freeze and this you will pour into all of your drains which have a trap. Sinks, shower, washing machine to ensure the water in there is forced out and only anti-freeze left behind. I prefer this method to pumping anti-freeze everywhere since I don't have to flush any lines when I am ready to use the coach again, I just fill with water and go.