I am in the beginning stages of looking for either a Class B or C not more $30,000. It is a bit overwhelming as everything else we have had has been a trailer. I am looking within about 200 miles of where I live as the choice is not too good in the immediate area. I am doing all the research as my husband is still not sold on the idea. Basically, I'd like to go out for maybe a month at a time, come home, regroup and go again. He does NOT want to FULL time it. We will not tow a vehicle as we have 2 Fusions and don't want to have to buy a car too. I would like something fairly small so we can get in and out and about easier. One other note...most likely will have 1 dog and 2 cats with us.With all this said, can someone offer advice on what to stay away from and maybe a good vehicle to look for....or a place to go to get that information? I am a member on several FB pages etc, but in the beginning it's tough. I have also read that we should have any vehicle checked out by a certified mechanic/rv person. Where do I go to find such a person, especially out of town?Thank you in advance. I will also be crossposting this on the Class B page.

first you need to determine what you want and expect of the unit. Here are some examples from cheap and older to newer.https://tucson.craigslist.org/search/rva?query=brake+systemthen once you make your decision, you need to make a very good inspection with either an experienced owner or a local contractor of the unit. Looking for the normal things like no water leaks, no outside damage or trim missing that leads to water leaks, large globs of caulk compound etc. Then check the appliances. does the refer work? How cold is it top and bottom, does it switch over to elec or gas like its supposed to? How is the microwave if so equiped, stove/oven function as it supposed to. No water line, sink leaks soft floors around toilet or sinks etc. the ac and heater work or not both elec and gas as appropriate, the generator runs even powers all. How old are coach and chassis battery's?Mechanically will again depend on age. You looking for gas or diesel? Buy a scan gauge hook up (obd 2) take for good test drive, power there or is it a dog, any codes on the trip (take to autozone or and get a scan for free for this) Burning oil etc just like you would a used car. Check tire date codes the list can go on, and on and on.

You really need to look at cargo capacity, tow capability, and GCVWR with your requirements. With pets and 30 days on the road, you need space. Larger class C's often don't have much cargo capacity. I forget the year, but Ford chassis raised the tow rating about 3-4 years ago which helps.

New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road.Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best)NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.#2 SECOND BESTCommon, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focusI own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.a) Structural Seams Away From CornersWhen a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas.b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front CapA huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage.The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. The Itasca Navion Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie and the Nexus Phantom utilize a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.c) A Crowned RoofRain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof SheathingA single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.e) A Five Sided Rear Wall CapA five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together.Don't be fooled. There are a select few manufactures who add rear wall sectional styling pieces over an entry level rear corner seam design which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed.Bigger Will Be WeakerThe size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration.The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice.Potentially Troublesome ConstructionEntry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like BestAbout The ChassisThe most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. Also within this past year is the recent introduction of the Ford Transit. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter & Transit will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower.If considering a current-day “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine- Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.- A grander view out the windshield- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years on the Sprinter and most recently on the new Ford Transit.The Ford Transit ChassisThis chassis has the potential to dominate the class B+ & C motor home market in the smaller sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a much lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. It's more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access.The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away ChassisThis front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market.The Chevy 3500 & 4500 ChassisUnfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room.Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and DodgeFord E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ftFord Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ftMercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ftChevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ftDodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)

You've got a headstart on many people as you have already had trailers and therefore have a good understanding of desirable layouts and space requirements. Start there and fine tune how much room you need for everyone to be comfortable and happy (pay attention to things like litter box placement, cat food bowl placement, movement while cooking, etc.). Consider sleeping arrangements - will you sleep in the cabover bed or do you need a dedicated bed below? Do you use a crate for the dog - if so is there room to set it up. Remember you want to be happy and comfortable for a month at a time in it - that will be different than a weekend or week trip.Next, consider the engine just like buying a car. You want to check all the same things. One big area that is often ignored is rubber. Hoses, belts, etc. RVs sit for long periods, so these parts will deteriorate quicker than on a car that is regularly used. Pay attention to fuel lines.For the house, you will consider the exact same things as when buying a trailer. No difference.

For what it's worth ... here are some things, in no particular order, that we looked for when shopping for our Class C ... or found out were beneficial and wound up with (luckily) after we owned it:- We wanted "good old American iron" in the chassis for easy repair and service everywhere -> so we chose Ford.- We wanted a chassis designed and built to carry a generous overhead of weight above what the coach might actually weigh for extra margin in areas such as brake swept areas, frame material thickness to provide stiffness supporting the coach, less rear end sagging over time, and a lower rear differential ratio to help with engine and transmission cooling on long grades in high temperatures -> so we chose the E450 even though the E350 was rated high enough to carry the coach.- We wanted a one piece fiberglass roof with 3-4 inch rolled edges for leak resistance, that wouldn't dent from freak hail storms (aluminum dents), that was nicely crowned for water runoff and vertical strength to minimize damage from bounching up/down of the air conditioner on rough roads -> so we chose Itasca (Winnebago) with it's 10 year roof warranty.- We wanted the driver's seat to be able to move all the way back when traveling -> not blocked by any furniture or other structures.- We wanted the shower stall to have high headroom.- We wanted room for at least two Group 31 batteries without having to sacrifice exterior storage areas better used for other things.- We wanted two permanent queen size beds in about a 24 foot Class C length.- We did not want slides in order to keep wall shear strength and leakproofness optimized.- We wanted large as possible gas, propane, fresh, grey, and black tanks in about a 24 foot Class C length.- We wanted the fresh water tank and all fresh water plumbing to be contained within the heated interior.- We wound up with aluminum running boards -> fiberglass can crack.- We wound up with an automatic coach step.- We wound up with steel lined fender wells for the rear duallies so that a shredded rear tire would not damage the underside of the coach.- We wound up with steel drawer slides.- We wound up with solid wood drawer fronts.- We wound up with gravity latches for all the drawers that never wear out.- We wound up with an exterior sewer storage bay that can hold the entire 30 foot of sewer hose so no sewer hose tube at the rear of the coach is required.- We wound up with a full size spare mounted out of sight and a huge heavy duty lug wrench to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.- We wound up with seven steel lined and carpeted exterior storage bays -> with two of them running laterally across the coach width for storage of long items such as fishing poles, shovels, etc..- We wound up with a black/grey tank emptying valve arrangement that permits off-loading of the grey tank into the black tank in an emergency situation -> where the grey tank is full with the black tank still having some spare capacity.- We wound up with 12 volt electrically heated grey and black tanks for cold weather travel and cold weather hookup camping or drycamping.- We wound up with a built-in Onan generator fueled off the main tank, that is mounted way up so it doesn't show, and is enclosed well enough such that it is low enough in interior vibration and noise that it can be tolerated for hours, if necessary, while living inside the RV.- We wound up with a bunch of interior 12V DC receptacles.- We wound up with a bunch of interior 120V AC receptacles.- We wound up with all interior wiring being neatly bundled.- We wound up with a double galley sink with a single control faucet- We wound up with built-in curtains (so we didn't have to buy them or make them ourselves) to seal off the rear bed area, the cabover bed area, and the cab area -> for added privacy and better heat-loss control in cold weather or better heat-gain control in warm weather.- We wound up with a combination of vinyl and carpeted areas for good ambiance where needed and ease of cleaning where needed.- We wound up with storage areas along the head and along the foot of the cabover bed.- We wound up with good ground clearance to minimize scrape-ing when entering parking lots or traveling off-pavement. The wheel wells also permit larger diameter tires to increase stock ground clearance, if necessary.- We wound up with a water heater drain valve that's very accessible for changing of the sacrificial rod.- We wound up with storage areas under the dinette seats that are fully usable, as no equipment is under the seats -> some Class C designs have the propane furnace there.- We wound up with ducted air conditioning.- We wound up with ducted heating.- We wound up with a built-in fresh water filter.- We wound up with an exterior shower with a remote water pump switch right next to the valves.- We wound up with four rechargeable walkie-talkies in a charging rack accessible right by the exit door.- We wound up with an exterior entertainment center with handy 12V DC and 120V AC receptacles.- We wound up bright chrome wheel liners for good looks.- We wound up with a roof ladder that is well mounted for many years of reliable use in doing roof washing, waxing, and roof equipment servicing or repairs.- We wound up with heavy gauge wiring between the engine alternator and the coach batteries for fast charging with the engine idling and when traveling.- We wound up with grey tank and black tank level sensors that are outside the tanks to keep them from clogging up -> they sense the liquid levels through the walls of the tanks.

If buying a used Class C - what not to do | Good Sam Community

Bordercollie
Explorer
Aug 24, 2017
You might have more choices in used rigs in the socal area in the fall. Check Craig's lists for Orange County and LA, RV Trader, etc. Getting the brand, length and floor plan/features may take some time and patience. Don't buy too small, too old, needing water damage repairs or major item AC/Furnace/Fridge/RV generator, etc., replacement/repairs.
joycereed
Explorer
Aug 22, 2017
we are looking to buy a 25-28 ft rv, probably in October. We'd like the twin beds in the back. Location is not a factor but of course closer to Central CA is better... and of course we want a reasonable amount of miles and probably not more than 2 or 3 years old. Any advice on where to look?
Owinsmom
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017
I guess doing a little research, the key is to get a smaller rental company. Cruise America is still bad.
blownstang01
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017
Owinsmom wrote:
AJR wrote:
Consider a used rental unit. There are lots of people here that have been very happy buying one. I know that is where I will look the next time I am in the market.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26035008/srt/pa/pging/1.cfm

Now that's interesting. Because I had read so many negatives I wasn't even considering them now. I was really interested 2 years ago when we decided to sell our "permanent" unit up north. And it was at that time that it seemed the negatives outweighed the positives. They seemed kind of bare bones, but we're not high end people as long as I have the few essentials and everything runs great. TU

We are one of them that bought a used rental unit. Ours strangely enough has a bunch of options. Ours is a 2006 Winnebago 31C, has large slide, factory air bags, generator, slide topper, max air vents, the list goes on. Only had 42,000 miles on it when we bought it two years ago. It came from a small rental fleet from a company in VA..no road-salt :) . It's been flawless (knock on wood) and typically the maintenance on rental units is great. I'm also sure there are some ratted out duds out there that have been treated badly as rentals. Just check them out good, but that's the same no matter what it's previous life was. Good Luck!
Bordercollie
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017
There are alternatives to RV'ing that might appeal to hubby more including touring by car or airlines with car rentals and staying in motels. KOA RV parks offer small cabins for car people. I can see where buying an RV and having one partner liking the lifestyle, and the other not, could lead to marital tension in some cases. It can be expensive to buy an RV and then decide to sell it or let it sit for years, in your driveway, unused. Good luck with whatever you decide, take your time and learn about the length, floor plan/sleeping accomodations and features available in various brands and models. I recommend a 27 foot Class C with rear bedroom and "RV queen sized bed" over shorter rigs with less comfortable and convenient sleeping setups and less storage room.
IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Aug 21, 2017
It may be a long read but there more than 90 happy owners that have responded to the Rental Thread.
Owinsmom
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017
AJR wrote:
Consider a used rental unit. There are lots of people here that have been very happy buying one. I know that is where I will look the next time I am in the market.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26035008/srt/pa/pging/1.cfm

Now that's interesting. Because I had read so many negatives I wasn't even considering them now. I was really interested 2 years ago when we decided to sell our "permanent" unit up north. And it was at that time that it seemed the negatives outweighed the positives. They seemed kind of bare bones, but we're not high end people as long as I have the few essentials and everything runs great. TU
jimx200
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017
We bought a Class C two years ago and found a gem. It's a 1999, 22', Ford E350, V10, and had 19,000 miles on it. We paid $15,000 and spent another$2,500 for new tires, roof recoat, and front steering stabilizer. It's been flawless and runs like new. It was kept inside too. My point is that these beauties are out there. Ours was from a private party off Craigslist. Watch listings every day as the clean ones sell fast.We had it all checked out after we purchased it..it was in perfect condition. IMO, don't be afraid of a older unit
AJR
Explorer
Aug 20, 2017
Consider a used rental unit. There are lots of people here that have been very happy buying one. I know that is where I will look the next time I am in the market.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26035008/srt/pa/pging/1.cfm
Owinsmom
Explorer
Aug 20, 2017
pnichols-
Thank you SO MUCH for all the information. There is so much there to consider and things I never thought of. I really appreciate you taking the time to post all that. It will certainly will be an invaluable tool when we are looking.

THank you again!!

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