ignition switch

This is a common problem on the P32 Workhorse with some Motorhome builders. They overload the ignition switch. you can verify this by taking the switch apart and finding a burnt connection. Mine was bad enough that you could see the burned area without taking it apart. A relay will fix your problem.

JimM68 wrote:
Things where you stick the ignition key in the side of the steering column do now ever have the actual switch there.
The key moves a rod up and down the column, and the actual switch is bolted to the side of the column under the dash somewhere.

/there are adjustments in the steering column that effect the movement of this rod.

It sounds like yours has never really moved far enough.

yes exactly what I suggested several posts ago

Things where you stick the ignition key in the side of the steering column do now ever have the actual switch there.
The key moves a rod up and down the column, and the actual switch is bolted to the side of the column under the dash somewhere.

/there are adjustments in the steering column that effect the movement of this rod.

It sounds like yours has never really moved far enough.

wolfe10 wrote:
Yup, relay is the same as solenoid, though solenoid tend to be rated for higher amps.

A "solenoid" is a device that moves a solenoid rod when current is passed through a solenoid winding surrounding the solenoid rod. A "relay" is a device that uses a solenoid rod to operate a switch (unless it's a solid state relay and lacks the solenoid). A "contactor" is a high power relay (usually above m5kw or 30A). I used to use the term "relay" to refer to a "solenoid" until my boss slapped me a few times for trying to buy a relay in the catalog when I needed to buy a "solenoid". :)

Yup, relay is the same as solenoid, though solenoid tend to be rated for higher amps. Wired exactly the same and function the same.

I also have a 2001 Workhorse and had the ignition switch go bad. There is a problem with these switches being overloaded. If you go to Oemy's preformance website and click on DIY Projects It will show you how to install a relay. I did this and have had no more problems.

I do not know how that switch is assembled but this I do know.

Class A's have a LOT of keys

Mechenics suggest detaching them and using just the ignition key in the ignition,. Something about the weight of all those keys.

In the old days the switch was on teh back side of the cylinder and this did in fact cause issues... Today I think they build 'em different, may still cause issues though.

Not saying this is your problem, however I had a situation like this with a van I owned back in the late 70's. Sometimes after driving a distance and shutting down for gas or a quick snack, the van would not start. I don't recall if it even "clicked." I tried by-passing the solenoid thinking that was the problem. Still no starter action.

I finally noticed the problem occurred more often in hot weather. Figured it out... the starter was overheating from being too close to the exhaust manifold. If I let it cool down a bit, it would eventually crank and fire. If I was in a hurry, a little ice on the started case did the trick. I installed a heat shield (I think it was a recall thing) between the starter and the exhaust/block and never had the problem again. I don't think the problem had anything to do with the starter per se, as the van was fairly ('78) new at the time.

I hope this helps you or some one else down the line.

Robert
Huntington Beach, California

csburks wrote:
I have a 2001 Georgie Boy Suite on a Workhorse chassis that I bought new. About 7 years age it would not crank right after I made a stop on the road. They had to replace the ignition switch that is down inside the stirring column. At the end of last October the same thing happened and replaced it again. Last month I was having trouble cranking it and it was bad again. They have not determined what is causing it. Can you give me any help?

did u actually look at the switch? was there obvious overheat/melted area on any of the contacts? I have seen where the rod between the switch and the key goes out of ajustment and results in a no turn over situation.Acts just like your in a non park or neutral situation

You need to see what runs through the ignition switch. High amp equipment really should NOT be run through it and can cause early failure.

The right answer is an ignition solenoid to power most everything with the ignition switch only serving as the "signal" to close the solenoid.

Put an ammeter on the wire coming from the ignition switch and start turning on things that only work with the ignition on-- dash HVAC fan, perhaps headlights, etc. If amp reading stays relatively low, you are fine. If they go up, consider a solenoid/relay to power the heavy draw things.