Levelers and Jack Pads

Moffittclan wrote:
Based on the recommendations of another, I made my own leveling pads out of the 4x6 stall mat from Atwoods. It's 3/4 inches thick and seems very tough. I think they are going to work great for leveling (i.e. driving up on them) but I'm not sure they are great for the jack pads on gravel/dirt. They bend/sink too much with the weight of the coach. I think I'm going to look at using some treated plywood instead, or maybe even attach one of these pads to the plywood.

Moffitclan,
Jack and wheel pads need to be durable, strong, withstanding and, be able to handle time and the elements. I've made many and, have purchased cheap, "LEGGO" type and more. Solid core lumber, as in 2"x6", 2"x8" and the like, while easy to work with, is GARANTEED to crack and fall apart, almost from the git-go.

But, it's great when, you sandwich it in between 2, high quality pieces of plywood. When done properly, a block/ramp etc. made like that and, with a coating of any form of Urethane/varnish etc., will last for years and years.

Plywood, especially exterior grade, is a good choice. If you use ONLY plywood, and you're going to STACK it, as in layers, then rotate each layer 90 degrees. There is a "grain" to plywood so, altering every other layer, counter acts the stress of each layer. Finally, if you do make your own out of wood, then use a router or, maybe even a belt sander or vibrator sander to "round" the edges/corners so that, there's way less chance of splintering. The sharper the edge, the more prone to splintering and, the more chance YOU HAVE to get one of those splinters into YOU!!!

You'll see the different kinds of blocks and ramps I've made and presently carry. The blocks are 3/4" exterior plywood with (2) 4"x6"x11" pieces of Doug Fir in between them. The ramps you'll see are, industrial decking plywood that's 1 1/8" thick and, tongue and groove. It's a bit on the expensive side but, without a doubt, the strongest plywood and most well made, for this kind of thing, that one can get. Those are simply layered, glued and screwed, and finally coated with 3 coats of Marine Spar Varnish.

And the final step, to install nylon webbing as a handle, ON BOTH SIDES. That way, I can grab and stack them easily, no matter what side is facing me. Good luck.
Scott

When I'm on concrete I don't use any jack pads - the jacks aren't going to sink into the concrete. I may or may not use them on pavement. It will depend on how hot it is and if the pavement looks thin meaning I can see where others have been denting it.

I made mine out of treated plywood. They're probably a little more substantial (heavier) than some people would want, but they'll last as long as the MH does.

I bought a sheet of 4' x 8' x 3/4" treated plywood. Cut that into 18 pieces 16" x 16". The make four pads, two of them 5 layers thick and two of them 4 layers thick. Use Titebond III waterproof glue or Gorilla glue between all of the layers and then use 5 2.5" stainless screws from each side of the completed pad to compress the glue tightly while drying. I also gave them several coats of Thompson's waterseal.

On one edge install a large stainless eye bolt. Then in the end of wooden whindshield squeege handle, I installed a stainless hook. With it I can position the pads easier under the jacks and it's very easy to hook them and pull them out from under the MH.

They'll last for ever and at 16" x 16" they prevent the jacks from sinking into soft ground. And having the pads two different thicknesses helps to offset some unevenness in the ground levels.

Bill

Generally pads can be made out of anything. I found some 3/8 plate steel. Cut with angle grinder, worked perfect.

If you are on concrete, do you put the jacks directly on the concrete?

Years ago I made a set of pads from 3/4" treated plywood. They're 12" x 12" pieces screwed and glued together for a total thickness if 1 1/2". I drilled a hole in each one about 2" from the edge and inserted a poly rope with a loop. They can be pulled from under the motorhome without having to get down on your hands and knees.

We use them all the time on anything but a concrete surface. They even get used on asphalt. In some areas the asphalt gets so hot the jacks sink in without a larger base to support them.

We also make sure to use them on any surface in the late fall and early spring. Before using them we had a couple incidences when the thawing and freezing water froze the jacks to the ground. We had to crawl under and pour hot water on the feet to get the jacks to retract. When using the wood pads we can raise the jacks then drive away. The wood pads can then be easily removed.

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