Levelers Need Help Retracting

What Doug says. New springs didn't help mine. Wiping down with the lube of the week doesn't help. I'll suffer with it instead of replacing all (or front 2) jacks. I have a nifty board with attached angle piece that I just put under real quick and finish lifting. Springs are all only 2 years old.

TC&Z wrote:

deereone wrote:
Extend the rams as far as possible. Wipe the rams down with ATF. With the rams wet with ATF try to retract the rams. It might take 2 or 3 times wetting the rams and retracting to get them to operate. It's a easy try to get them working.

I am the original poster of this thread/question.

I wanted to report back that I used suggestion above from deereone to wipe down leveling shafts with ATF and it worked extremely well. The leveling shafts retracted very quickly on the first try. Many thanks deereone! Another example where RV.net was a great help to me!

Yes, this works for a few days/weeks, then the problem returns. The ONLY correct fix is to rebuild/replace the defective cylinders. Of course it is cheaper to wipe them down all the time with ATF. Doug

deereone wrote:
Extend the rams as far as possible. Wipe the rams down with ATF. With the rams wet with ATF try to retract the rams. It might take 2 or 3 times wetting the rams and retracting to get them to operate. It's a easy try to get them working.

I am the original poster of this thread/question.

I wanted to report back that I used suggestion above from deereone to wipe down leveling shafts with ATF and it worked extremely well. The leveling shafts retracted very quickly on the first try. Many thanks deereone! Another example where RV.net was a great help to me!

I've got a similar problem with one of my front jacks. Beside not wanting to fully retract (WD40 bandaid worked) it's making a loud groaning sound extending or retracting. Besides that both front jacks leak down in about two days. I then have to relevel. Another problem seems that our motorhome appears level, but all my outside compartment doors are misaligned when level making it VERY difficult to open them. One rear jack has been replace as well as the keypad controller board. On our previous mh that we had for ten years we never had any problems with the HWH system. But that was a manual system and this is full automatic leveling system.

I've decided that we are taking a side trip on our way to Alaska this year. We'll be spending a few days at HWH in Moscow, IA for repairs.

mtrumpet wrote:
Sounds like it's time for new springs.

Teacher's Pet wrote:
Have you checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir on the pump?

Sorry, but Hydraulic Fluid level, either high or low, would have nothing to do with ability of the spring retraction on a single acting hydraulic cylinder.

Yes, many of you don't seem to understand this type of leveler is not retracted with hydraulics but only spring pressure....

If you still have the 2007, you have the current tapered springs. Doug

Sounds like it's time for new springs.

Teacher's Pet wrote:
Have you checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir on the pump?

Sorry, but Hydraulic Fluid level, either high or low, would have nothing to do with ability of the spring retraction on a single acting hydraulic cylinder.

I have replaced a couple of my springs and that helps. I still have one sticky cylinder. I do lube them up generously with ATF every Spring.

There may be a manual release on the solenoid associated with the jack in question. Opening this may allow the jack to fully retract. Look for the solenoids and a tee handle.

Sometimes a little debris can get in the solenoid orifice and not let the pressure fully release. If this works, there is probably nothing wrong with the jack.

Replacing springs NEVER fixes HWH retraction problems where you have to use a Lever or floor jack to fully retract. The problem is, ANY HWH jack that sticks in retraction and you have to pry up with a 2x4 or floor jack---the internal seals are bad. 2 solutions--
1. Remove and send to HWH or a local hydraulic shop for rebuild
2. Order new cylinder from HWH and replace
Wiping down the cylinder with WD 40 or ATF is just a band aid for the real problem. WITHOUT the springs installed, you could lay down and manually push the jack cylinders up to full retraction when in retract mode. Spring replacement is needed when the jacks do not retract completely and you can get them retracted by pushing with your hand. The Spring Replacement idea came into being about 10 years ago when they had springs that lost their tensile strength and you could fully retract by pushing by hand. HWH redesigned the springs and IF you have springs that are tapered on each end your springs are strong enough to retract. Doug