leveling a class a motorhome

Bumpyroad wrote:

Lobstah wrote:

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

yep, HWH biaxial leveling.
bumpy

This is true with HWH leveling systems. I had them on my gasoline coach and I can honestly say they are the worst jacks you can get.
What I have on this DP are Quadra by Big Foot and you can operate them one at a time or all at the same time. Best is one at a time. As soon as it touches the ground stop and go to the other until you have all four touching the ground. Then look at the bubble on your levels and like they say just center the bubble. Very simple and they are superior to the HWH. HWH are a joke with their spring return. I used to hate mine on my gasoline coach.

Most owners manuals say not to lift wheels off the ground. I have had two jacks replaced due to over-extending. When it over-extends, a sheer pin is damaged. If a site is unlevel enough to cause this, I use the manual procedure and get it close as possible.

Lobstah wrote:

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

yep, HWH biaxial leveling.
bumpy

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

From Norcold/Thetford, look at leveling requirements.....

FAQ for refrigerators

FIRE UP wrote:

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

taigarazz,
Well, yes, placing blocks, plastic spacers, whatever you want to use, under the jacks will prevent "sinking" of your rig ONLY if the blocks/spacers/plastic pieces are of size enough to displace the amount of weight per jack. In other words, if you put one (plastic spacer) of the same size as the jack foot under it, then you're not accomplishing anything. The block/spacer needs to be larger to displace the weight. The larger they are, the less chance you'll have of driving them into the pavement or, mud, or dirt or whatever's soft that you're parked on.

The leveling debate always cracks me up. Why guys have such a hard time placing a few blocks or ramps of some type under the tires and drive up on them when they "KNOW" the situation is un-level and warrants it, I'll never know. I know and realize that some coaches have limited space for storage of a supply of blocks, lumber etc. but, if you travel, to many unknown campgrounds/RV parks and, not knowing the parking conditions, it simply pays you to bring along some lumber to use in the event the ONLY spots available are some what un-level. And don't give me any of that cr.. about "Well I'll just move to another spot" stuff, yeah sure you will, in the middle of camping season and, every retiree on the planet is out and traveling.

But, folks can do as they please, it's their rig. I never hang any tires and wheels off the ground. When I'm done leveling, no matter how un-level the site is, the tires are on wood, and the jacks too, so that I have TEN points of contact on the ground and that rig is as stable as a rock. And, all the interior doors STAY where I leave them and don't close on their own 'cause I was too lazy to level it correctly. The refrigerator is DEAD LEVEL. I'm the one that has to pay for a new one if I damage it because I was lazy and didn't take the time to level it. So, to each their own.

I don't see where this discussion is about whether or not to level.
My fridge is "DEAD LEVEL" too. That I choose to use my jacks rather than a combo of jacks and planks has not effect on whether or not my fridge/rig is level. It's about HOW you level, not IF you level.

As I've stated before, I don't believe it matters if your wheels are off the ground. I really don't care if they are or not. My jacks are designed to support the full loaded weight of my coach, period. And I just can't imagine a site that is SO sloped/slanted that 23,000lbs resting on top of 4 supports that are 12" in diameter would slide, unless they were on ice.
Your suspension just doesn't care if it's loaded or not. It's designed to support the full weight of the coach, as are the jacks.

If you want to spend an hour adjusting planks etc because you believe it somehow increase the longevity of your coach?...have a ball.

Just don't tell me I'm wrong because I don't do it YOUR way.

Jim

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

taigarazz,
Well, yes, placing blocks, plastic spacers, whatever you want to use, under the jacks will prevent "sinking" of your rig ONLY if the blocks/spacers/plastic pieces are of size enough to displace the amount of weight per jack. In other words, if you put one (plastic spacer) of the same size as the jack foot under it, then you're not accomplishing anything. The block/spacer needs to be larger to displace the weight. The larger they are, the less chance you'll have of driving them into the pavement or, mud, or dirt or whatever's soft that you're parked on.

The leveling debate always cracks me up. Why guys have such a hard time placing a few blocks or ramps of some type under the tires and drive up on them when they "KNOW" the situation is un-level and warrants it, I'll never know. I know and realize that some coaches have limited space for storage of a supply of blocks, lumber etc. but, if you travel, to many unknown campgrounds/RV parks and, not knowing the parking conditions, it simply pays you to bring along some lumber to use in the event the ONLY spots available are some what un-level. And don't give me any of that cr.. about "Well I'll just move to another spot" stuff, yeah sure you will, in the middle of camping season and, every retiree on the planet is out and traveling.

But, folks can do as they please, it's their rig. I never hang any tires and wheels off the ground. When I'm done leveling, no matter how un-level the site is, the tires are on wood, and the jacks too, so that I have TEN points of contact on the ground and that rig is as stable as a rock. And, all the interior doors STAY where I leave them and don't close on their own 'cause I was too lazy to level it correctly. The refrigerator is DEAD LEVEL. I'm the one that has to pay for a new one if I damage it because I was lazy and didn't take the time to level it. So, to each their own.

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

Well, the plastic blocks aren't much bigger (if any) than the pads under the levelers. I use 3' lengths of 2x6" wood planks to distribute the load some.