Leveling

I also use the Ramble blocks....but, I always put a length of 2 x 10 on the ground first to prevent flexing of the plastic blocks. Works very well and have never had a problem.

I used to carry wood ramps when we had the class A.
Now with the C less storage space and weight limit.
I purchased a set of the Tri-Levelers. I do not care for the short foot print they have. Tires not always on a flat surface. Ok for a short week end. Long term I like to have tires on flat surface.
Plan to make another set of wood ones. I have HWH jacks but some places you need to raise front and not leave front wheels hanging in the air.

I guess if your wheelbase is around 4x your 48" level, you could measure the leveling error and multiply by 4 to get your block height. The trick is how to level when the coach is off level side/side AND end/end. Phil's link seems to address that, as does the three-point level discussion above.

As a quick first guess, I put my 4 ft level on the high end of the 8 ft bumpers, measure how many inches to raise the other end to be level, double that figure and use that many blocks on the low side. Works well, but I haven't yet figured out a front to back method using the level. Has anyone used a laser level at the highest wheel to shine on the other tires, marking how high to raise them?

You may have to adjust the amount you have to raise the MH from what the Hoppy levels indicate. Not all RVs have the same wheelbase and the distance between the front wheels is less than the rear wheels on a class C. You soon learn to adjust for your own vehicle.

Boy ... did I learn something today after reading this thread, scratching my head a lot, and then searching the WEB ... as follows:

1) I've used a couple of those stick-on Hopkins Graduated RV Levels, # HM08525l ... shown in the photo posted above by j-d ... for years in our Class C motorhome.

2) I didn't know one was for front-to-back and the other was for side-to-side. I couldn't see any difference in the two different levels' curvature when I bought them or in j-d's photo above, so I just mounted one on the dash and one on the driver's side door - thinking they were "the same". As it turns out both of mine are mounted in the correct orientation (see more about this in my link below) completely by accident.

3) I thought they indicated degrees of tip - not inches of lift required for leveling.

4) I just went out and took a look at the ones in our rig - the one on the door has a very small "letter C" by the number 7 on the left end of it's scale. The other one on the dash has a very small "number 3" by the number 7 on the left end of it's scale.

Here's how to MOUNT, and USE, the two DIFFERENT Hoppy stick-on levels:

http://www.etrailer.com/question-15333.html

I used to use whatever I had with my camper


Now I have 4 wheel ramps and 2 bags of lego bricks and those levels mentioned above. I have air bags all around and use them to fine tune.

Picture of the "graduated" Hoppy Levels

These things are excellent!!!
Look carefully at the pic and you'll see the two aren't identical. They have different curvatures. One for Lengthwise and the other for Crosswise.
Get the coach just-so-exactly-perfectly level then install them IN THE HOUSE but where you can see them from the cockpit. I say HOUSE because a C twists enough that leveling the cab doesn't always level back where you'll be living.
We've had HWH kickdown jacks on the two Class C's we've owned and got to where we leveled with boards after looking at the levels to see where we were close to level as we moved short distances on the site.
Jacks are OK but up on boards is steadier and kickdowns are a PITA.
Unabashed Plug for Sway Bars: Steadier on the site with Sway Bars and resting on the tires than it was without bars and the kickdowns deployed. Not to mention how much better it drives and tracks!

I made five 3-step wood leveling blocks (using 2X6 boards) and carry them along with three other 2X6 wood pieces. This allows me to do a worst case three-point leveling height adjustment of up to about 6 inches. I need five of the 3-step blocks for the worst case situation of raising all four rear duals and one front tire.

"How" to do a three-point leveling is a bit detailed to explain clearly. I've learned to do it by figuring out and estimating how much to raise the whole front or whole rear along with how much to raise the RV at the same time from side-to-side. For example if at the same time the rear of the RV should be raised and whole driver's side of the RV should be raised: I use four of the 3-step blocks to raise the rear, but also put a piece of 2x6 under the front edge of the two 3-step leveling blocks on the driver's side rear duals and one 2-6 under the front driver's side tire.

As I pull forward onto all the blocks, the rear of the RV raises and the left (driver's) side of the RV raises - all at the same time. I'm watching two leveling gages mounted 90 degrees to each other - one on the dash and one on the driver's side door - as I pull forward. It took awhile after I owned the RV to learn how to do this - but after eventually getting good at the estimating part I can now pull off a 3-point leveling pretty fast.

We have a small Class C so we wind up a lot in the older campgrounds designed and built years ago when tent camping out of cars was the most popular. Hence the RV usually gets parked in the "car spot", which is often very much off level. Where the tent is supposed to be is often the only level part of the campsite - which does us no good. I also have to do a lot of 3-point leveling when we're out boondocking.

The rubber pads for horse stalls are 3/4" or 1" thick and can be cut to size with carpet knife or sabresaw. Water proof, good cushion and inexpensive, only drawback they are bulky.