Forum Discussion
- LobstahExplorerThanks. That nut is the manual extend/retract nut. You put a 1/2" socket on it and 500 revolutions equals 1" of movement, up or down.
Just climbed under mine this morning, can't move it with the manual nut...so gears are stripped. Same problem I had with my left rear.
Time to order another head. At this rate, I think I'll order two. I think I paid about $250 the last time, so might just start travelling with a spare.
This is ridiculous though.
If I didn't have a garage full of tools and wasn't afraid to dig into stuff like this, I can't imagine how many thousands of dollars I'd have spent so far at a service center. The main controller was $500, would have been $1,000 from Atwood. Jack at service center was $1500, so there'd be 2 of those now...all in all I bet I'm up to $5K of charges just on the jack system.
Jim - FreshAirExplorerJim,
Something quick to try with the jack. On the bottom of the jack motor there is a flat nut apx 3/4" wide. With your fingers, spin it a few times and then try it. Also there is a large connector plug going to the jack on the top side of the motor. Wiggle or replug it. I'm assuming you have the electric jacks and haven't already tried this.
Also there is a complete jack reset procedure available if you need it. I have the same highly intermittent problem with the same jack position.
Pat - LobstahExplorerWill be looking at that fix as soon as I get back home.
Meanwhile, I have another Atwood jack failure. Left front wont extend. What a crappy product these Atwood level legs seem to be.
Jim - sawellmanExplorerThanks Jachinator and Freshair. I was able to locate the angle iron and all my screws were broken and/or gone. I made the suggested repair/fix and will take my RV out next weekend to verify this solves my problem. (I sure hope so because the moving/squeeking dash bugs me A LOT!). Thanks again for all your help.
- FreshAirExplorerSeems like someone once posted a pic of the location?? I couldn't find it.
Best position to see the black 1" angle iron that is welded to 1" square tubing is on the drivers side as there are less cable bundles obstructing your view.
The angle iron, which has the small undersized screws, runs vertical and is spot welded to the square tubing also running vertical against the firewall. The angle iron is attached by the screws to fiberglass body.
On my Pace, when I lift the hood I can put my thumb on the side of the hood opening and with my fingers extended,reach in at about a 45 degree angle towards the side of the coach and touch the angle iron were talking about. Same thing on passengers side.
I replaced orig. screws, some were missing, with much larger, I think 1/4" hex head screws. Can't remember length. I also drilled and added more. Like said before, be careful on length as you don't want to screw thru fiberglass side.
Jim, I don't know how you would jack up the body to fix this. Maybe the whole thing is at rest where it should be and the stress is greately reduced now. If everything looks OK and seems aligned alright, it might be best to secure it where it rests now with larger screws? - JachinatorExplorerI took some pics and when I figure out how to post them I will. If you send me your email I can send them to you. I'm still learning my way around this site. Thanks Jachinator
- sawellmanExplorerJachinator - if you could take some pics and send/post I would really appreciate it! I looked under the hood today and was not able to locate what your describing (there is a wiring harness running down the left side....are the screws and angle iron under the harness on the left)? The angle iron screws into the wood of the back of the dash...correct?
- LobstahExplorerI have this issue also, glad to see it brought up here. Are there safe ways to jack up the "body" to realign the screw holes? I think mine is about an inch too low.
Jim - JachinatorExplorerSawellman, I have fixed two Pace Arrows that had the same problem. First you have to locate the tech screws that they use to secure the dash. Sometimes they are buried under black chalking. The screws more than likely have worked themselves out and are missing or stripped out. The holes should be on the black angle iron that is mounted to the dash, very left corner, about 1 inch wide. You have to find one of the holes to see if you are lined up correctly before you reinstall with bigger tech screws, not longer(could puncture the outside of your RV. I also drill about 6-8 more holes and insert more screws into the angle iron and the wall of the coach. This has fixed the problem on two of my pace arrows(2004 & 2006). I hope this helps, sorry I don't have any pics. If I get a chance I will take some and post.
- sawellmanExplorerSqueeky & Moving dash (on passenger side) - i know this has been talked about before but I was hoping I could ask for anyone who has solved this problem to send me a private message with pictures. I have seen posts about replacing screws under the hood to reinforce where the dash connects to the structure braces. i have looked but dont see this.
Any help and/or solutions of how to keep the dash from moving/squeeking. (I have already put a 2x4 brace under the dash and multiple L brackets under the dash...but it still moves up & down and squeeks).
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38,707 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 05, 2014