Ok gang,
I'm working on my "un-glued" joints now. Below are pics of the "injured" attachment points. Now, as you can see, the metal/bracket part, doesn't appear to have any form of "roughing" or agitation, sanding, nothing. It just appears to be painted. Now, in some cases, a nicely painted surface CAN hold a glued object to it for quite some time, based on all the conditions the glued joint has to survive in.
Now, you also see the glue, that's still attached to the interior fiberglass. I gotta tell ya, that stuff is on there for the duration. I've done a bit of prying on it and, IT AIN'T COMING OFF, without some severe, potential damage to the fiberglass which, could potentially provide damage to the exterior painted surface.
Now, a question. Many of you have advised the use of 3M 5200. Our local Home Depot has a few tubes in stock, according to their website. The question is, since that factory glue is on there for the duration, if I rough up the surface both contact points of the metal, and then maybe try and scrape the surface of the original glue joint, then rub it down with Alcohol, would it be possible for the 5200 to adhere to the original glues surface, and to the metal ones?
If there's any doubt, I may just rough up the metal ones and, wipe down the entire area with alcohol and, just glue the whole thing down with resin and fiberglass mat. I surely don't have any doubt that, that stuff will hold.
Scott
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