Thinking

I have a small trailer for the Prowler for local stuff but if I go the part/full time route I'll need an enclosed one for sure. Thanks

I went from a toyhauler and truck to 31' class c and enclosed trailer and love it. The only reason I went with the enclosed trailer is so I can keep my buggy in it

nomad289,

I have a trailer & dolly but would try not doing that I'm 63 and lazy. As far as the 3 point turn I have turned my 37' 5er in some places you would not believe. Had no choice. I used to pull a TT and tag with the buggie but after falling on the ramp/gate in the rain dislocating my elbow I went to a toyhauler. I'm just thinking down the road. With age I may just want to travel instead of riding and think a C would be better for 1 person than an A. I guess I could retro fit it to my needs for now and the added water capacity will never be a downside & that along with a fuel station of some kind would make it desirable to a wider range of potential buyers when it comes time to give it up. I'm seeing more +'s as we go here.

Thanks everyone for all your comments.

pnichols outlined the reasons I switched from a 29' 13' high 5th toy-hauler to a C. The other is that you can do a three-point-turn on a narrow dead-end in a C, impossible with a 5th.

For wide open desert, a toy-hauler is tops. For exploring mountain roads with low overhangs a C has advantages.

I'll be pulling "toys", extra fuel, water, etc. on an aluminum utility trailer. If need be, I can unload trailer and reposition with a handheld "rack-em" trailer dolly. All RV's have tradeoffs.

Be sure to check the CCC or OCCC, C's over 30' with slides start to push the chassis limits.

Most C's have 55 gal gas tanks which serve the engine and generator--no fuel station. You could tap into the generator fuel line and add a secondary fuel pump with spark-less switch.

64thunderbolt -

Larger Class C': Fresh/gray/black
Gulfstream Endura 36' 60/52/52 with 80 gallon fuel tank

dry camping for me is on forest rds in the mtns and desert trails in the desert in winter. I now have a 34' 5er and before this had a 37' both are 13' high so I kind know what I can put where. I do use the truck to go for supplies cause I always seem to forget to bring something. But I could drive the Prowler to the store if need be.

The tanks are my only concern. 40 blk/40 gry will work but I want at least 80 fresh. Here in Az you can drain off the gry onto the ground, usually just dig a hole and let it trickle if the need arises.

Thanks for all the comments. Knowing I can increase the fresh is encouraging. After being used to 122 fresh 40/60 makes me nervous. When trail riding frequent showers are a must.

Now the only draw back is bringing fuel for the Prowler. What is the normal fuel caoacity on the C's?

Once camp setup now, do you ever take truck out for run to store, etc? If so, do you pass a location where you dump tanks now? If so, you would be driving the MH and could just stop to dump the tanks.

There's a fine but important distinction between drycamping but not in the boonies, and drycamping in the boonies. To me the "boonies" means drycamping kindof out in the middle of nowhere and maybe in a bit more tricky to get to - and maybe a bit tight when you get there - places.

IMHO, what this can translate into regarding RV type versus tank size is this: Get the smallest RV you can tolerate out in the middle of nowhere while at the same time equipped with the longest-time-frame self-containment-sustaining systems possible.

We have only a 24 foot Class C but on an over-kill chassis with respect to it's weight for additional mechanical ruggedness and reliability, along with over-stock size tire heights for a bit more ground clearance. It's rear end is raked up a bit to reduce tail dragging crossing road depressions. It's capacities are approximately 40 gallons fresh, 40 gallons black, and 30 gallons grey. It has all the comforts of home rain or shine, albeit with not anywhere near enough floor space to play bocce ball should we ever want to.

Since we have about 2250 lbs. of additional weight we could safely carry, I suppose fresh water capacity could easily be expanded to well over 100 gallons using a tank, or tanks, mounted up between the frame members alongside the driveshaft. Even under the dinette seats 50 more gallons of fresh water would probably fit just fine. Grey water can easily be off-loaded into the black tank to extend grey capacity while camping in the boonies.

IMHO, a Class A makes a superb drycamping-only rig ... but a way too restrictive drycamping in the boonies machine due to it's height, the length of it's wheelbase, it's rear end departure angle, sometimes it's length, and usually it's ground clearance.

I'd recommend starting your search for a boondocking RV with a small Class C or a large Class B, with the most important criteria being large capacity tanks and a quiet built-in generator with both ducted heating and ducted air conditioning for best flexibiliy on when and where you can go in complete comfort. Just about everything else beyond those things would be gravy.

I replaced my OEM 30 gallon freash tank with a 60 gallon. Easy change. Plenty of space in existing location

Driving an A will not be an issue. I' a retired crane operator. Yrs of driving a 165T crane, 90'L 12'W, 145K back & forth between Phx & LV plus 10+ yrs owning 3 semi's. I'm single and 99% of the time I go alone so the size isn't an issue. The only thing is the tank size, boondocking with those small tanks will not work. May just stay with what I have. My 5er toyhauler has 122 fresh, 43 blk, 40 gry. the fuel station is a big plus over cans on the small trailer with the buggie.

I was just thinking about later on in life when I may stop the trail riding a C would do the job. What I see is the price is about the same A or C in the used market. That is a surprise.