Here is a pretty simple procedure. First, read the owner's manual for your vehicle under "Recreational Towing". Take the procedure for connecting and disconnecting, type it out and laminate it. I like to use a half sheet of paper. Under the connecting procedure, make sure the last step, written in bold is RELEASE PARKING BRAKE.
The reason for typing the info is so that you don't forget steps when you haven't towed in a while, or someone else needs to hook up your vehicle. I leave the card in the seatback.
I like the little black bags that Harbor Freight sells for carrying stuff. I carry a pair of cloth gloves, tow bar lube, the umbilical cable (cable between motor home and tow car) and any other components you find that you use routinely when connecting your toad.
Once you've made your tow bar decision, it's time to get going. I install my tow bar on the motor home and use a locking pin through the hitch and tow bar (tow bars are expensive). When I'm ready to connect, I move the tow bar from the stowed position (most tow bars stow to one side when left on the motor home while not in use) to a laid out position. That means the tow bar is spread apart and laid out behind the motor home. By doing this first, you're not trying to stand between the car and RV and manipulate the tow bar. You can easily it the car by accident and there is not much room to work.
Now that it's laid out, pull the car up. As time goes by, you'll get good at centering it and stopping the car the appropriate distance from the rear of the coach.
Once you have the car placed, get out and make the connections. This is where the cloth gloves come in handy. Tow bars are incredibly dirty because of where they live. That's why I also keep the lube near by.
Connect your two tow bar arms to your car and ensure the pins holding the connections together are secure. Some like to use small locks to lock them on, including me, but not in the last few years. I want to be able to disconnect quickly in an emergency. My pins have a spring loaded clip that keeps the pins from coming loose. Next connect your safety cables.
Once you're connected, you need to connect the umbilical cord. You have some decisions as to what kind of braking system you'll use, so that connection may need to be made too.
Next, you'll do what is required to place your vehicle into towing mode. I always like to double check the vehicle is in neutral by either pushing with one foot out the door until the tow bar arms extend and or roll back naturally.
I've towed several vehicles over the years. Personally, I don't check every light once I know my system is set up correctly. I simply turn on the emergency flashers before I start my connections. If both of your rear lights are flashing, it means that your brake and turn signal lights are working.
As we leave, I like to try and make at least one low speed turn to see (in the mirrors) if the front wheels are turning (steering side to side).
Once I arrive at my location, I determine what would be the best location to disconnect. Sometimes it's in the parking lot, sometimes at the actual campsite. In your case, as close to the campsite as possible if you're by yourself.
Tow bar arms have a locking mechanism that locks them when they extend. Most problems with disconnecting is that there is too much pressure on the pins connecting the tow bar to the car, making them impossible to remove/release. If I know that I'm not on a level surface and the pins may bind, I like to put my car back into service before disconnecting. I place it into Drive momentarily and then apply my parking brake firmly. This usually allows me to pull the tow bar release on each arm and the car moves forward an inch or two, releasing the pressure on the pins. I then disconnect the umbilical and tow bar pins. I leave my safety cables on until the end, in case the car tries to roll away when the pins are removed.
I put my tow bar back into the stowed position, put my gear back into the black bag and park my car. The tow bar mounts on the front of my tow car are removable, I remove them to keep from striking another car while parking and to prevent theft.
I like to buy the cover, made for your particular tow bar and cover it when not in use while on a trip.
Lastly, if you don't use locks on your tow bar, it needs to be checked every time you get ready to tow, if the coach has been parked unattended.
Towing is pretty easy once you get a system in place and do it a few times. Your biggest decision will be the two bar and base plate mounts, braking system and how you want to wire the lights up.
