Tow vehicle battery going dead

Toad Charge
This is what we use. I'm sure there are cheaper ways to make your own set-up but this works for us.

What are you using for the aux brake system.. The US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator system includes a link between the coach battery (Chassis) and the towed, Heavy wire breakerd at 20 amps (Coach) and 40 (Towed).

Invisible brake (Roadmaster?) also has a charge provision.

The Towed charge system above with other brake systemns.

Second, there should be a fuse or two you pull, or you remove the fuse, install a way overpriced adapter (like 50 bucks) with leads and a switch, and plug the fuse into the adapter.. Flip the switch and it cust off the battery killers.

The running lights should NOT come on in the accessory position.

I didn't think the lights came on in the "Acc." position. If they do, can you pull a fuse to disable the daytime running lights when towing?

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy


Looks like wa8yxm beat me to it !!!

Do you have an electrical pigtail that goes from the coach to the toad .... most coaches do. There should be a "HOT" terminal. From the toad inlet socket run a # 10 wire to the battery using an alligator clamp at the battery side. Also solder in a diode so the power only goes in one direction .... from coach to toad. This will keep the battery charged.

wa8yxm wrote:
What are you using for the aux brake system.. The US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator system includes a link between the coach battery (Chassis) and the towed, Heavy wire breakerd at 20 amps (Coach) and 40 (Towed).

Invisible brake (Roadmaster?) also has a charge provision.

The Towed charge system above with other brake systemns.

Second, there should be a fuse or two you pull, or you remove the fuse, install a way overpriced adapter (like 50 bucks) with leads and a switch, and plug the fuse into the adapter.. Flip the switch and it cust off the battery killers.

The running lights should NOT come on in the accessory position.

If you look in your owners manual, it will tell you which fuse to pull, anyway it does on the newer ones. I installed the switch on my Equinox, which I agree was way over priced. But, it may be the best money I've ever wasted. This poster is right, though, the outside running lights should not be on with the ignition switch in the aux. position. I have a friend who has a 2012 Honda CRV and he refuses to pull the fuse like his manual says, but he does make sure his radio is off, and he doesn't seem to have any problems. If it was me, I'd put in the overpriced switch, which you could probably make yourself, if you saw one.

I bought a toad charge from brake buddy and wired to the 7 pin hot wire on the MH. The toad charge cost about 25.00 & the wire has a diode in it. A simple installation.

Install a wire on your plug to your battery from the charge pin in the plug. use a inline fuse and then battery will charge while you drive. About a 5.00 fix.

My HHR, you pull a 2 AMP fuse that "kills" the dashboard. Otherwise, the battery goes dead in about 6 hours.

My Honda CRV running lights do not come on in the ACC position...I tow it 4 down...can you see if the lights are on while you are towing,,,I don't pull any fuses either and have run for 5-6 hours towing,,,I would think it is something else.....my owners manual says to pull the fuse if towing for more than 6 hrs,,,

How old is car battery? Maybe the easy way to fix problem.