Window AC project

I thought is was bigger than 5000 BTU, in that case a Honda 1000 may work fine.
I would still recommend the 2000, it will give you a lot more flexibility.

Arizona Kid wrote:
I don't think a Honda 1000 will run your AC. On those type of units the start up power needed is usually double the BTU's. So an 800 BTU AC will require 1600 watts of start power. I would also suggest the Honda 2000.

The tag on the ac lists a draw of 4.9 amps but does not differentiate between start up and run. I am surprised how quiet and small a 5000btu unit is today. And I may run a test with the inverter. If it won't operate it then a Honda 1000 probably wouldn't either. Not all that important to me as I usually stay where I can have electric until I get to cooler climate in the summer or warmer in the winter. Last winter I brought the van back from Maine in subfreezing weather and didn't boondock until Georgia.

stan909 wrote:
Re shock absorbers. I think Bilstiens or Konis for RV use but seriously I think some put rubber around the opening or make a shelf with rubber for the AC to sit on. Low watt ACs are only around a hundred bucks so maybe it doesn't matter to you.like you. I bought my lil B to use without having to take the Bounder out and feel much more freedom. I am also trying to weane the wife away from the bigger rig for when we ritire and travel more. Thanks for your posts.

Man its really hard to get most ladies to transition to a B once they are used to an A. My wife mostly objects to the 2000 mile trips out west or 1700 up to our cabin in Maine so I often make those trips by myself and pick her up at the nearest airport once I'm out there. So we always ride together in the A but I'm usually solo for part of the journey in the B. I love the B for places like the Blue Ridge Pkwy, back country out west, etc.

I don't think a Honda 1000 will run your AC. On those type of units the start up power needed is usually double the BTU's. So an 800 BTU AC will require 1600 watts of start power. I would also suggest the Honda 2000.

Re shock absorbers. I think Bilstiens or Konis for RV use but seriously I think some put rubber around the opening or make a shelf with rubber for the AC to sit on. Low watt ACs are only around a hundred bucks so maybe it doesn't matter to you.like you. I bought my lil B to use without having to take the Bounder out and feel much more freedom. I am also trying to weane the wife away from the bigger rig for when we ritire and travel more. Thanks for your posts.

Multiple answers: I have been using the micto and fridge with the inverter for about 5 years now. I matched all the power requirements to the inverter before installing one. I would not try to run the window ac and micro at the same time.

No I don't have shock obsorbers on the ac. Monroematics? Joking :)

The Honda 1000 would handle the van ok. Already have an 8k for the house because we live in hurricane alley, and its very heavy.

This van has been a gradual project for 5 years now. Been back and forth to Maine, New Mexico, Colorado, etc usually several times a year. Each year I have made changes based on enhancing comfort and convenience. Total project cost including the van is now a little over nine thousand. Pretty cheap for a comfortable B. The full size bed stays made up at all times. Would like to have a hanging closet, but don't want to make the open space any smaller. 19" flat screen mounts on bookcase when I take it.

OP-------------I would rethink buying a 1K Honda generator and instead, get a 2K and you can use it at home in the event of a prolonged power outage. JMO as I really enjoy my 2K and it's not that much heavier than the 1K.

We drove our van with the window A/C all over the country and never had a coolant leak, but it occurs to me that they were not made in China back then. The cabinet is made to be outside the window so we never had a problem with road dirt, either. Bud says he just lightly hosed it off. As I recall, the biggest concern was somebody walking into it. We put those stick-on reflectors on two corners.

sizzy wrote:
What kind of inverter do you have? I don't really understand them but would like to be able to use the microwave.

It is done all the time but it takes the right combination of inverter, wiring and batteries.

As BillMFl pointed out check the label on the microwave oven and look for power consumption or running watts. My 600 cooking watts microwave oven is 900 running watts. My 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter will just run it (it is really maxed out). A 1200 watt or even 1800 watt inverter would have been a better choice for me.

On two fully charged marine/RV AGM batteries my inverter sounds an alarm when I run the microwave oven. On four batteries it runs ok. I measured the DC amp draw and it was 103 amps! It is wired using 4 gauge which is a bit on the light side. Bigger wires would be better.

For a small microwave oven like my 600 watt unit you need a battery or more likely a combination of batteries they are capable of delivering the needed 100 amps DC.

BillMFl - have you had a chance to try either the microwave or the air conditioner on the inverter?

I recommend some sort of travel cover for the air conditioner. I've seen photos of a cover made of vinyl with snaps. The cover will keep the road dirt and bugs out. Only problem with the cover is that you have to remember to take it off to use the A/C.

I have a window type a/c in my van probably the same size as yours Bill. It cools the back area quickly. It takes a while for the cooling to get the cab area but it is better than no cooling at all. I've been woken up by birds hopping around on the a/c at dawn. I guess it is a nice place for them to land on.

Bill. I can't tell from your pics but did you shock mount it somehow? I have heard of others mounted the same way and losing coolant due to the welds shaking apart.