..Motor quit working on the Dometic 9100 power awning on our Georgetown MH. Already tracked the issue down to the motor - Disconnected it, did a continuity test between the two wires coming out of the motor, it is wide open, shorted internally. Time to put in a new motor. Fortunately, it didn't quit until after I rolled the awning up at end of last trip of the season (we're done camping for the year), so I have all of Fall, Winter to fix it, so can take my time. Really want to do this repair myself as it seems pretty simple.Questions:1. Instructions I've seen from various videos on this, show that you drill out rivets to remove old motor assembly, and use a rivet gun to rivet the new one in place. I don't have a rivet gun, is it really necessary to use rivets to put in the new motor? Can I not just use a couple of properly sized sheet metal screws to mount the new motor onto the end of the roller tube?2. Been looking around at various options on where to get the replacement motor assembly. Seen a handful of retailers on ebay that sell them for much cheaper, claiming they salvage new, perfect working motors off of damaged awnings. Has anyone bought/used one like this? Would this be a good idea, or just asking for trouble? Please, only respond if you have specific experience with such motors, I don't need to hear about the risks of buying off ebay or general comments about buying used vs new, I understand that risk completely.3. Any other advice, suggestions from anyone thats done a motor replacement like this on an awning?What is NOT needed:Any comments saying this is why anyone prefers manual over an electric awning. I've had both, and suffice it to say they both have their pros and cons, and I prefer an electric one. No need to beat that dead horse again.As always, thanks in advance for any/all suggestions, advice, etc. :)

I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.

WNYBob wrote:I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.I know there's no way you'd get a nut on the inside. I was thinking of using some self-tapping/threading type sheet metal screws. I seem to recall years ago when I had to have the torsion/spring assembly replaced on a manual awning we had on another RV, that the technician that did it just used screws, didn't use rivets to put new one in, so was wondering if I could do the same thing here..Will

I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.The Dorman motor is like $40

Big Katuna wrote:I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.The Dorman motor is like $40I read about that, too, using power window motors from a car for this. Not gonna do that.Will

Awning motor replacement questions | Good Sam Community

WNYBob
Explorer
Aug 22, 2016
I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.

I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.
willald
Explorer II
Aug 22, 2016
WNYBob wrote:
I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.

I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.

I know there's no way you'd get a nut on the inside. I was thinking of using some self-tapping/threading type sheet metal screws.

I seem to recall years ago when I had to have the torsion/spring assembly replaced on a manual awning we had on another RV, that the technician that did it just used screws, didn't use rivets to put new one in, so was wondering if I could do the same thing here..

Will
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Aug 22, 2016
I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.

Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.

The Dorman motor is like $40
willald
Explorer II
Aug 22, 2016
Big Katuna wrote:
I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.

Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.

The Dorman motor is like $40

I read about that, too, using power window motors from a car for this. Not gonna do that.

Will
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Aug 22, 2016
Very ljikely the same motor.
MrWizard
Moderator
Aug 22, 2016
dorman windows motor in kwikee steps yes

never heard of using one for electric awnings

oh well.. learn something new
elivi8
Explorer
Aug 23, 2016
Yes it's easy. I got the new motor from ebay and it took 15 min to replace. I never even put the rivets back on or even screws. Never had an issue. Its been 4 years now with lots of use.

Ryan
1968mooney
Explorer
Aug 23, 2016
elivi8 wrote:
Yes it's easy. I got the new motor from ebay and it took 15 min to replace. I never even put the rivets back on or even screws. Never had an issue. Its been 4 years now with lots of use.

Ryan

X2. Just remove the old motor and google the number on it. It will reference to the replacement motor. I purchased mine from Autozone and it came with a lifetime warranty.
willald
Explorer II
Aug 25, 2016
1968mooney wrote:
....Just remove the old motor and google the number on it. It will reference to the replacement motor. I purchased mine from Autozone and it came with a lifetime warranty.

The motor on mine is such that I don't think you can remove and replace just 'the motor'. Its a complete assembly, includes the end piece to the awning arm, the cap that goes on end of roller, etc. It looks like THIS.

You're not going to find anything like that from Autozone, or off a car door's power window. It is going to have to be ordered from a RV parts retailer.

That is, unless you were to take the whole assembly apart, separate the motor, find a replacement motor, and try to put that replacement motor back on this assembly properly. No way am I going to try that, I'd never get it back together right, haha.

I contacted Dometic directly, they want $408 for a replacement motor/drive assembly (oouch!). Fortunately, they gave me the part # for this drive assembly. A quick Google search on that part # brought up several different RV parts retailers (Tweetys, PPL Motorhomes, Pacific RV parts to name a few) that have this part for considerably less $$, around $300 (new). I've found several other alternatives as well (reconditioned, and ones that were salvaged off damaged awnings), for considerably less, around $100-200. Will probably go that route.
1968mooney
Explorer
Aug 25, 2016
willald wrote:
1968mooney wrote:
....Just remove the old motor and google the number on it. It will reference to the replacement motor. I purchased mine from Autozone and it came with a lifetime warranty.

The motor on mine is such that I don't think you can remove and replace just 'the motor'. Its a complete assembly, includes the end piece to the awning arm, the cap that goes on end of roller, etc. It looks like THIS.

You're not going to find anything like that from Autozone, or off a car door's power window. It is going to have to be ordered from a RV parts retailer.

That is, unless you were to take the whole assembly apart, separate the motor, find a replacement motor, and try to put that replacement motor back on this assembly properly. No way am I going to try that, I'd never get it back together right, haha.

I contacted Dometic directly, they want $408 for a replacement motor/drive assembly (oouch!). Fortunately, they gave me the part # for this drive assembly. A quick Google search on that part # brought up several different RV parts retailers (Tweetys, PPL Motorhomes, Pacific RV parts to name a few) that have this part for considerably less $$, around $300 (new). I've found several other alternatives as well (reconditioned, and ones that were salvaged off damaged awnings), for considerably less, around $100-200. Will probably go that route.

Mine was different. Very simuliar to http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C1/82338/01200.oap?year=1995&make=Ford&model=F-150&vi=1122309&ck=Search_01200_1122309_-1&pt=01200&ppt=C0335

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