110V AC & 12V DC layout plans

Hi Taking,

That is exactly how my system works. Except I also have a hybrid inverter/charger so I have 120 volts AC on tap any time I want it.

I invested in the Pinella remote start unit for the Yamaha 3000 Sieb

TakingThe5th wrote:
I once used a class c that had a plug that was hard-wired to the remote controlled generator and installed in the shore power cord storage bay. The shore power cord was also hard-wired. The shore power cord was always plugged into that generator plug when stowed. For shore power you would simply unplug from the generator and plug into shore power. When done - stow the cord and plug into the generator plug and you are ready to fire up the generator at any time.

Your 120V setup looks pretty good. There's not a whole lot to it, nor much needed, which makes things nice and easy.

Basically, you need a transfer switch whenever there are or could be more than one 120V AC supplies that are wired to power a single circuit. Plugging the shore power cord into the generator is one good way of eliminating the need for a separate transfer switch (and the system that TakingThe5th described is basically the same thing).

I note that you show both a 30A and a 15A power inlet. You would need some sort of a transfer switch there if you have both, since plugging in one would otherwise energize the other. That could lead to all sorts of evil things. (If, for example, you have a generator connected to the 15A connection when you plug in the 30A one, you have the generator energized...or, if the power is out, you backfeed the electrical grid. Also, you could end up with exposed energized male plugs, ready to shock the unsuspecting.) I would only have the 30A inlet and use an adapter when needed.

The fridge uses somewhere in the vicinity of 300W on AC. It would make sense to wire it and the converter to the same breaker. If you ever use an inverter, that breaker is one circuit that you would definitely not want the inverter to power.

If you're buying new materials, I'd suggest making all the circuits either 15A or all 20A so you don't have to buy two different gauges of wire; a single larger roll of one size is cheaper than two smaller rolls of two different sizes. I'd go with 20A myself, though either one ought to be perfectly acceptable. (You do of course need to have 10 gauge wire for the 30A inlet, up to the main breaker.)

The 12V setup looks fine for a start, but there's still a good bit more to be added. Offhand you'll need a 12V circuit for the fridge, another for the exhaust fan, one for the water pump (which could perhaps be shared with something), one for a radio and/or TV connection if you want those, one to power the LP gas detector (and CO detector if you don't use one with its own battery), etc. I'd also suggest putting in a few lighter sockets in convenient places for cell phone chargers and whatnot, even though many commercial RVs lack them and suffer for it.

You may want to install a battery disconnect switch (usually a latching solenoid with a remote control) for storage. You also probably want to have some sort of an isolator setup with a charge line from the chassis electrical system so the house batteries charge while you're driving. There are a number of setups for this of varying complexities; it's possible that the van may even have some wiring etc. already built in, particularly if it has a tow package.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If a line wire is paralleled for say three feet against a positive battery wire it could affect a voltage regulated LED that itself is located very near to an AC line voltage wire or accessory. This comes from The School Of Hard Knocks

Noted, I need space between the 12v wiring coming and going to the distribution panel.

evy wrote:
The generator will have a remote control with electric start so it would be cool to hook it up with an extension cord or something and not have to go out every time I want to use it, maybe plug it manually from the inside?
But I haven't decided anything yet, I need some good advice.

I once used a class c that had a plug that was hard-wired to the remote controlled generator and installed in the shore power cord storage bay. The shore power cord was also hard-wired. The shore power cord was always plugged into that generator plug when stowed. For shore power you would simply unplug from the generator and plug into shore power. When done - stow the cord and plug into the generator plug and you are ready to fire up the generator at any time.

If a line wire is paralleled for say three feet against a positive battery wire it could affect a voltage regulated LED that itself is located very near to an AC line voltage wire or accessory. This comes from The School Of Hard Knocks

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
TWO RANDOM POINTS

Parallel means running alongside. Do not parallel either line or neutral to a 12 volt positive or chassis negative wire closer than 4" and then for not longer than 10 cm. This stops a lot of noise from entering the 12 volt line which can affect sensitive electronics, radios, televisions, etc.

Would it be a problem for other equipment such as LED lights, pump, etc.. or is it limited to TVs and radios? All my wiring will probably run in the same exact area, in some sort of plastic sleeve maybe.
I didnt plan on installing a radio and a tv, with a laptop, smart phone and bluetooth speakers I'll manage.

TWO RANDOM POINTS

Parallel means running alongside. Do not parallel either line or neutral to a 12 volt positive or chassis negative wire closer than 4" and then for not longer than 10 cm. This stops a lot of noise from entering the 12 volt line which can affect sensitive electronics, radios, televisions, etc.

Instead of using BLACK as 12 volt chassis negative (ground), use YELLOW. This is being universally adopted in yachts. For a damned good reason. People have died from touching a black "Battery Ground Wire" thinking the live 120-volts was "ground". A battery only rig needn't bother.

So this is what the 12V DC lighting/wiring would look like, tell me what you think.

TakingThe5th wrote:
You should have your lighting on at least two circuits. You want to minimize the possibility of being completely in the dark if you blow a fuse. Also balance your loads on the 110v side. Example-I cannot run a small space heater in the bedroom and turn on the coffee pot at the same time because they are on the same 15 amp circuit. DW cannot use her hairdryer tor the same reason. In this case two GFI circuits would be nice, or maybe three. Yes-these are heavy loads, especially with 30 amp service, but principles are the same. Sorry-not sure if I know how your main 110 will be wired.

Thanks for the advice, it makes sens.

I separated the LED lights into two circuits.

As for the AC, I separated my kitchen outlet from the other outlets.

I think DrewE told me not to use a switch box if my generator is not hard wired, so I probably won't have one and plug it manually. The generator will have a remote control with electric start so it would be cool to hook it up with an extension cord or something and not have to go out every time I want to use it, maybe plug it manually from the inside?
But I haven't decided anything yet, I need some good advice.

westend wrote:
You're missing a receptacle in the shower area. Make it a GFCI, same with the exterior receptacle, GFCI. I'd also suggest to add receptacles to the kitchen counter area, you could mount them under the counter top.

Tip: Get a load center that has more breaker spaces than needed. Distribute 120 V through multiple breakers with some devices on their own breaker like fridge, converter, AC, and the GFCI locations. That way, if one device goes South or one GFCI trips, you won't lose power to other devices on the same circuit.

Hi Westend,
Did you look at my plan? all my outlets are connected to a GFCI outlet, Also I did add an outlet in the kitchen area, and every other equipment are on separate circuits.

I don't think I will add an outlet in the shower, if you look at my floor layout you'll see that it's really just a shower, no lavatory, no counter top nothing.