2 fluorescent lights in LR not working

Well I tried, in my case the lights work fine slide in or out, you can not reach the switches on them slide in however as they are above the slide.

Good luck.

No wa8yxm, I wish I had that switch. It sure would be easier. To answer your question, the 2 lights are operable when the slide is in. Thank you so much for helping.

Thanks to all for the great advice. You are obviously more proficient than me. I guess what is so confusing is that the wires to the lights are blue with a red stripe and there is no such wire leaving the DC fuse panel. Therefore, since I can't continue to trace the wire without removing the microwave I don't have a clue where or which wire these two fixtures are spiced into. I haven't been able to locate it on the other side of the microwave (the refrigerator is next to the microwave). After I posted this I did find a wire that feeds the other two lights in the area and spliced into that wire (solid blue). Both fluorescent fixtures work fine feeding from that wire. I then tested the original bad wire (blue with red stripe) where I cut it and as I expected, no power. I would really like to find the problem.

Question is there a living room slide and when it is in does it block access to those two light.

That is how my RV is layed out, and there are three lights, Those two and the one over the step well, There is a switch just inside the door, near the "Salesman switch" as the battery disconnect is sometimes called, and a 2nd copy of it in my main house control panel.. They are 3-way switches and control said lights.. That way you can turn the OFF after you bring the slide in, or turn them on, turn them off as you exit and turn 'em back on soon as you open the door.

Have you checked for voltage in the wire after it leaves the power panel? I have stuck a pin in a wire to check for voltage. As long as the wire is in a dry location it does no harm.

Don't forget you need a ground too. Either the +12v wire or the ground wire could be open.

That was a great idea to use a voltmeter and a long wire to the breaker box or fuse box if DC to determine which wire is not connected. It cuts the tracing job in half.

There are inexpensive tracers that put a radio signal on a wire, live or not, and then you can trace it with a detector. I have seen the pair in a bargain store for under $10. The wires should go to the fuse box (DC) or breaker box (if AC) or else to another light so not too many places to check. When using the tracer you would flip all the breakers off or remove all the fuses to avoid getting the signal on all the wires.

Of course you could use an ohmmeter with a long wire to extend one lead. Make sure the power is OFF when using a meter in ohms mode as well as opening all the breakers or fuses.

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The fuses are sometimes hard to see if they are blown, try changing them around,or test them for continuity by turning your meter to ohms, is there any other 12V things not working? You may have to keep tracing the wire that goes to the lights back to where you have power. Which I know is hard, maybe you can tie the wire into a 12V wire (source) behind the microwave.

I would suggest running a temporary jumper from your DC power center to a location you believe is good. Any size wire will no. #16 or #18 is fine.
Use 12 volts DC positive and then do the same for the negative. This way you will know witch wire is bad.
I would also look behind the DC power center for a bih nasty wire nutted splice for the negatives. You problem circuit could have pulled out of splice.
No work has been done that may have reversed the polarity?

Dogbone, thanks for the reply. I took the fixtures down, checked the connections and voltage with the multimeter. No power. That is why I traced the wires as far as I could.

Othertonka, thanks, I have no master switch for those lights on my motorhome.