bright lights

Rewire the low beam wires to the common connection on your high/low switch. In this way the low beams will be on all the time, and only the high beams go on or off.

Such a modification is probably illegal.

Not that you will be bothered by the law, All those retrofit HID kits installed into halogen reflectors are illegal, but it does not stop the masses from blinding the rest of the masses with high glare poorly aimed blue floodlights? Not often, but I have seen a few offenders being written up.

If the goal is brighter more effective headlamps, making sure the headlights actually receive battery charging voltages makes a huge difference. The difference in lumen output between 12.0v and 14.5 is huge, 50% brighter at 14.5v.

I was suffering nearly 3 volts drop over my stock wiring. I used the stock wiring to trigger relays and made a new 12awg harness. My voltage drop is now 0.3v and very few vehicles that pull up next to me at night, have better lighting, and I just have sealed beam 6054 headlamps, which are now where near as capable as modern housings.

The following site should be perused and studied by anybody interested better forward vision at night.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

I bought a kit from LMC Truck and installed that on my old 93 Chevy 2500. Real simple to install and made my lights stay on together. What a difference...and am sure it is available at a lot of auto stores. I think I paid about 20 bucks for it.

As landyacht said. Proper voltage first then as cpaulsen said install a relay kit to run more current through a relay and not run both beams on your switch. Sometimes the switch or connector on the back of it will melt.

landyacht318 wrote:
Such a modification is probably illegal.

Actually, it's not.. There are several headlight combinations some do use all 4 lamps for either HIGH or LOW (Forget which)

What I am about to describe may not work with some DRL systems (like the one GM and Workhorse use)

Assuming you have a column mounted Headlight switch.. on the connector at the base of the column there are 3 wires you will need to ID, Using a test light with a sharp probe ground the test clamp and turn on the headlights, low beam.

look for TWO WIRES that are HOT (Identify and tag all hot wires)

now turn OFF the lights,,, Look for the two wires that are NO LONGER hot.

Short them together DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCK connectors (not good enough)

now when headlights are on Low beams will work

IF you have DRL's.. Then it's may be a bit tricker..

You will need to see if the wires are HOT with engine running, and DRLs active (This may be hard to do since you need parking brake released, I do not know if the DRL's work in Park without testing).

If you find 3 wires that are "Warm" (hot but not as bright) then it will work.. If only two, and only one of them the same, it might not. Post and I will work up something.

Quote:
.I know there is a way to make all four to come on when on bright but dont know how to make it happen
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Maybe I'm getting senile, but I have never had....or seen the older 4 lite system where all 4 were not lit when on brite.
The outter has 2 filaments, hi & lo
The inner has only 1 filament, hi. So when on hi, the inner and outter burn,

I know,..... must have something wrong

Make certain your lamps are a minimum height from the ground. I've dealt with BLUNDER motorhomes in the 90's with lamps low to the ground and 1,000 watts of light at that height wouldn't have helped much. I just helped install a 140 watt short LED light bar atop a motorhome here, that is aimed 150 feet ahead of the vehicle. High beam controlled.

rjxj wrote:
As landyacht said. Proper voltage first then as cpaulsen said install a relay kit to run more current through a relay and not run both beams on your switch. Sometimes the switch or connector on the back of it will melt.

Can i get a relay kit for sealed halogen headlights with two prongs?

joe0508 wrote:

rjxj wrote:
As landyacht said. Proper voltage first then as cpaulsen said install a relay kit to run more current through a relay and not run both beams on your switch. Sometimes the switch or connector on the back of it will melt.

Can i get a relay kit for sealed halogen headlights with two prongs?

Does this look like something that will work in my situation?http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HR-58

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I just helped install a 140 watt short LED light bar atop a motorhome here, that is aimed 150 feet ahead of the vehicle. High beam controlled.

I'd like to see a picture of that.

Doug