Need Help! Coach wont restart!

J-D is right swap the relays.
However the link I gave is not the same year and could be different.
Note the ignition fuse. 10 amp
You should get your self an in-expensive multimeter and a 12 volt test light.

If Page 227 is the correct fuse/relay block for your W22, notice that the A/C clutch relay and the Starter relay are both 12193604 relays. Just for kicks, swap them and see if it cranks...

Lots of possible culprits on that fuse block mentioned above in the Section 4 reference. Look at Page 227. Several fuses and a Starter Relay. That Relay is NOT equivalent to the one I mentioned when I thought you had a Ford. Relay on Page 227 powers the 2:00 stud through a small wire, while the Ford relay is NOT on a small fuse block and powers the 10:00 stud using a heavy battery cable.

Spend some time in Section 4. Print the pages out if you can and see how many circuits are involved and the fuses that protect them.

I saw "5 amp - Crank Request to PCM" and that suggests that once you find out that 12 volts is NOT getting to the 2:00 stud, remove the wire and tape it. Then we'll know there's no way to back feed 12 volts into the Powertrain Control Module (Computer) when it isn't expecting it.

It's pretty hard to look parts up for a Workhorse Chassis on the auto/truck parts sites. I looked at Rockauto.com because they have better lookups than many. I was thrilled when I scrolled down and found "Workhorse" and then the models like W22. But when I went to look for Starter, nothing. VERY few parts were listed, so I went to Kodiak to find a Starter for the 8.1.

Your starter is likely to be mounted in a different orientation than the photo above, but for now, let's do "Dr. Pepper 10, 2, and 4." The large coppery stud with no cable and just a nut is at clocked at 10:00. Then there's a smaller silvery stud with nut at 2:00. Finally, another large coppery stud with a short cable on it at 4:00. If everything's working... like Ignition Switch, Neutral Safety, anything that might have to do with Slides, any Fuses and Relays...
then when you turn the Key to Start, 12 volts goes to the 2:00 stud and causes the Solenoid to make a connection between 10:00 and 4:00. Since 10:00 has the positive battery cable on it, 12 volts is already there. So 2:00 has caused 12 volts to go from 10:00 to 4:00. This powers the starter motor via the short cable on 4:00.

So take a Meter or Test Light under there. There should be 12 volts between bare metal on the Starter Motor or Solenoid and 10:00. There should NOT be 12 volts on 2:00 or 4:00. Until you turn the Key to Start, that is. Right now you say it isn't cranking, so keep the Meter on 2:00 and have somebody turn the Key to Start. If there still is NOT, then my premise is: You can crank the starter, and will not hurt anything, if you power 2:00 from 10:00. You can do that with light wire or a small tool. Just don't touch bare metal at the same time. EDIT: SEE NEXT POST IN THIS TREAD: Take the nut off the 2:00 stud, lift the terminal off, and tape it so it can't make contact with bare metal or another terminal. Do that first then connect 10:00 to 2:00 and the starter should crank. Or, use a booster cable or a heavier tool and connect 10:00 with 4:00. Starter should crank.

MAKE SURE IT ISN'T IN GEAR...

IF You disconnect the wire from 2:00 stud then:
1. Battery and Connections (both the 12 volt cables AND the ground cable) are good,
2. Starter is tight to engine,
3. You connect 10:00 to 2:00 and
4. Starter DOES Crank, Solenoid and Starter are Good but the circuit from Key to 2:00 is bad.
5. You connect 10;00 to 2:00 and Starter does not crank but does crank when
6. You connect 10:00 to 4:00, then Solenoid is bad and Starter is good
7. You connect 10:00 to 4:00 and Starter does not crank, then Starter is bad.

You really need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to test fuses and coils, and a Test Light to look for Voltage in places like the 10-2-4 studs.

j-d wrote:
I apologize... For some reason I thought this chassis was a FORD. Please reply with Which Chassis and Which Engine it has, if you can.

I "think" that there will NOT be a solenoid close to the Battery like Ford does it. And that the Positive Battery Cable will run to a large stud on the upper side of the Starter-Mounted Solenoid. Then there should be one or two smaller studs opposite each other, and maybe a second large stud below the first one. Hopefully there is only one small stud or if there are two, only one will have a wire attached. If I understand it correctly and stated it correctly, connecting the large upper stud with the small stud that has a wire on it, should cause the Starter to Crank.

Above Starter is for a Kodiak with 8.1L gas V8. Looks like one large stud has a short cable going into the starter motor, and the Positive Battery Cable goes to the other one. The large on with nothing on it in the picture. Then only one small stud. If so... Connecting the Large Stud with Battery Cable to the Small Stud should cause it to crank. If the Solenoid is bad, connecting the two LARGE studs should cause it to crank, but that will be a HEAVY electrical load. You'd need to connect them with a booster cable or put the jaws of a big pair of pliers to them and grip. Pliers would probably get HOT. Grip Firmly but not HARD, as the two studs are in a brittle plastic cap at the end of the Solenoid.

Thanks for the info! I believe it's like yours. It's a Workhorse chassis with a 8.l L gas engine. Do you know if this will hurt the starter if that's not the problem? Right now I just want to get it started so I can get it to someone or someplace more populated to get it worked on. Thanks.

enblethen wrote:
No you know model of the chassis? W22, P-32?
I know this isn't your year but it may help as it shows starter relay in section 4 on the fuse block
Workhorse manual

It's a W22. thanks will look at download.

You tube tutorial

The video is a good demonstration of how a starter works. You can use a small wire with the ends stripped slightly and hold it on the small terminal and touch the large cable. You will probably get a bit of spark and the noise will make you jump. There are inexpensive remote control starters that will do the same thing but from a safer distance.

I apologize... For some reason I thought this chassis was a FORD. Please reply with Which Chassis and Which Engine it has, if you can.

I "think" that there will NOT be a solenoid close to the Battery like Ford does it. And that the Positive Battery Cable will run to a large stud on the upper side of the Starter-Mounted Solenoid. Then there should be one or two smaller studs opposite each other, and maybe a second large stud below the first one. Hopefully there is only one small stud or if there are two, only one will have a wire attached. If I understand it correctly and stated it correctly, connecting the large upper stud with the small stud that has a wire on it, should cause the Starter to Crank.

Above Starter is for a Kodiak with 8.1L gas V8. Looks like one large stud has a short cable going into the starter motor, and the Positive Battery Cable goes to the other one. The large on with nothing on it in the picture. Then only one small stud. If so... Connecting the Large Stud with Battery Cable to the Small Stud should cause it to crank. If the Solenoid is bad, connecting the two LARGE studs should cause it to crank, but that will be a HEAVY electrical load. You'd need to connect them with a booster cable or put the jaws of a big pair of pliers to them and grip. Pliers would probably get HOT. Grip Firmly but not HARD, as the two studs are in a brittle plastic cap at the end of the Solenoid.

No you know model of the chassis? W22, P-32?
I know this isn't your year but it may help as it shows starter relay in section 4 on the fuse block
Workhorse manual

enblethen wrote:
Have you looked on the Workhorse fuse block for a fuse marked "starter" or "ignition"?

Yep there are several. I looked at them and they appear to be ok.. Need to buy a tester after this trip. A couple of the are the large Maxie Fuses and thy also looked ok.