Ok, just returned home from another weekend trip with my new Lifestyle LS36fw fifth wheel with a Norcold double door 1210 fridge. It still cools poorly during travel. Initially I thought it was a door leak due to the poor design of the latches. I did make some adjustments to the doors/latches and while it did not help the cooling issue, they do open and close much, much more tightly and easily now. This has not made any difference to the cooling, however. As always, the fridge is precooled to 37 degrees on LP, stocked (not overloaded) with ALL pre-cooled items. By the time we started the 90 minute trip, weather moved in and the outside temps dropped to 73 degrees. Despite that, the fridge temp gradually climbed to 50 degrees during our 90 minute trip. The burner was burning strong, no error messages, etc. The unit precools great on LP prior to a trip, cools great while at our destination running on a/c OR LP, and then warms back-up again on the journey home.This is the case on a 90 minute trip OR a 7 hour trip. In fact in May, the temp was nearly 60 degrees during a 6 hour trip. I cannot get the fridge to maintain a safe temperature during travel. Originally, I thought that is was a door leak but I'm sure that is not longer a possibility. I thought maybe it was a wind turbulence issue down the sidewall but I am leaning away from that, as well. I have even made sure that both roof vents are closed during travel just to make sure there is not some type of venturi effect on the fridge.The rig tows perfectly level, too. I can't imagine taking it to the dealer as they are not going to tow it around to duplicate the problem and it cools fine while parked. If anyone has any suggestion, please advise. Thanks! Phillip

Fridge needs adequate air flow across cooling coil in order to cool and maintain temps.That air flow is critical.Sounds like insufficient air flow in bottom vent across coil and out top vent when in transit.Might need to modify fan power by installing a manual On/Off switch so you can turn then on while in traveling vs them running on thermostat.Fans ON while traveling MAY help correct air flow issue.

Thanks for the suggestion. I actually devised an air scoop on the bottom exterior vent to help with the air flow. I tested it with a leaf blower and it really scooped a lot of air and forced it right out of the top vent. So I thought this was the ticket. Made NO difference at all. I'm starting to think that the coolinf fins are not sealed well enough where they come into the interior of the box. Therefore, while driving the wind turbulence outside is forcing the air through to the box??? Who knows. Now I'm planning to add some sealant around the interior cut-out where the fins enter the box to see if that helps. Phillip

pcm1959 wrote:Thanks for the suggestion. I actually devised an air scoop on the bottom exterior vent to help with the air flow. I tested it with a leaf blower and it really scooped a lot of air and forced it right out of the top vent. So I thought this was the ticket. Made NO difference at all. I'm starting to think that the fins are not sealed well enough where they come into the interior of the box. Therefore, while driving the wind turbulence outside is forcing the air through to the box??? Who know. Now I'm planning to add some sealant around the interior cut-out where the fins enter the box to see if that helps. Phillip10 years ago, Norcold had a problem with a few hundred 1200(1210 now) models where the cooling unit was NOT sealed correctly to the box. The result was--- cooled fine stationery and raised in temp in transit. The ONLY way to determine this was to have a Norcold authorized Service center to test the refer and using the customers complaints(always a temp rise in transit), they authorized the center to pull the refer and the cooling unit a reseal correctly. THERE IS NO WAY TO DETERMINE THIS WITHOUT PULLING THE REFER AND THE COOLING UNIT). You cannot add any sealant to fix this type problem. IF under warranty, get it in and have them contac Norcold with your history of this complaint. If all other parameters check out, then they will authorize this type repair. IN your case, I would also verify that the evap drain tube does have the check valve installed and that the LP pressure is at least 11.5 inches. LOW LP pressure can also cause your type problem. If you had a motorhome, I would instruct the customer to run the APU and run on 120 in transit to see if the heat rise happens on 120. Doug

Can you run electric on the road?

2oldman wrote:Can you run electric on the road?No, no generator. Thanks, Phillip

Norcold 1210 cooling during Travel | Good Sam Community

pcm1959
Explorer
Jul 27, 2014
dougrainer wrote:
pcm1959 wrote:
Fulltimer50 wrote:
Some of our models have, as mine did, a problem where the rubber gas line to the fridge bends shut when the slide is in. On mine they put in a longer line to give it more room to bend without crimping shut. Check it out.

Thanks for the tip. I don't think that this is the problem since the unit is running on lp with the slide in or out. It cools down to 34 degrees prior to travel but within 2 hours the refrig temp is up to 50 or higher. I'm not opening the doors as I have a wireless thermometer in the unit with the display in the truck. Phillip

Are you POSITIVE about the Evap drain pan hose not being open to the outside? There is supposed to be a check valve on the end of the drain hose. Some OEM's remove it and then run the drain out the bottom of the RV and THAT will allow hot air migration back up inside in transit. Doug

Plug is in end of drain tube and hangs in water collection bowl. Phillip
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 18, 2014
pcm1959 wrote:
Fulltimer50 wrote:
Some of our models have, as mine did, a problem where the rubber gas line to the fridge bends shut when the slide is in. On mine they put in a longer line to give it more room to bend without crimping shut. Check it out.

Thanks for the tip. I don't think that this is the problem since the unit is running on lp with the slide in or out. It cools down to 34 degrees prior to travel but within 2 hours the refrig temp is up to 50 or higher. I'm not opening the doors as I have a wireless thermometer in the unit with the display in the truck. Phillip

Are you POSITIVE about the Evap drain pan hose not being open to the outside? There is supposed to be a check valve on the end of the drain hose. Some OEM's remove it and then run the drain out the bottom of the RV and THAT will allow hot air migration back up inside in transit. Doug
pcm1959
Explorer
Jul 18, 2014
Fulltimer50 wrote:
Some of our models have, as mine did, a problem where the rubber gas line to the fridge bends shut when the slide is in. On mine they put in a longer line to give it more room to bend without crimping shut. Check it out.

Thanks for the tip. I don't think that this is the problem since the unit is running on lp with the slide in or out. It cools down to 34 degrees prior to travel but within 2 hours the refrig temp is up to 50 or higher. I'm not opening the doors as I have a wireless thermometer in the unit with the display in the truck. Phillip
hypoxia
Explorer
Jul 18, 2014
pcm1959 wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
The foil on the backside has absolutely NOTHING to do with sealing the cooling unit to the box. The foil just covers the cracks around the case. Doug

So you are saying that gaps and where sections on the back side meet that have gaps in them and where the foil has curled or lifted would not have anything to do with the heating-up during travel? Thanks, Phillip

Correct, it is sealed with foam & the tape just makes it look pretty.

Your leafblower test doesn't mean anything as the airflow is different going down the road. Ride in an open car; the wind comes from behind you which is why you see some with a screen behind the seats.
Fulltimer50
Explorer
Jul 18, 2014
Some of our models have, as mine did, a problem where the rubber gas line to the fridge bends shut when the slide is in. On mine they put in a longer line to give it more room to bend without crimping shut. Check it out.
pcm1959
Explorer
Jul 18, 2014
dougrainer wrote:
The foil on the backside has absolutely NOTHING to do with sealing the cooling unit to the box. The foil just covers the cracks around the case. Doug

So you are saying that gaps and where sections on the back side meet that have gaps in them and where the foil has curled or lifted would not have anything to do with the heating-up during travel? Thanks, Phillip
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 16, 2014
The foil on the backside has absolutely NOTHING to do with sealing the cooling unit to the box. The foil just covers the cracks around the case. Doug
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 16, 2014
pcm1959 wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
As suggested by Doug.....get Norcold involved ASAP

Thanks! I have gotten Lifestyle involved on this and they are supposed to be in contact with Norcold to get this checked out. Phillip

Make your own contact with a Norcold Rep......came out it from both sides then you know what is being said/told vs second hand info
pcm1959
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
Old-Biscuit wrote:
As suggested by Doug.....get Norcold involved ASAP

Thanks! I have gotten Lifestyle involved on this and they are supposed to be in contact with Norcold to get this checked out. Phillip
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 16, 2014
As suggested by Doug.....get Norcold involved ASAP

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