Theoretical vehicle Voltage regulator manipulation, update
My Alternator's voltage regulator in inside my Engine computer.
I am not always happy with the maximum voltage it chooses to allow.
My Field wires, One sees Z1 voltage( mopar) basically 13.7 to 14.9v vehicle system voltage, the other goes right to my Engine computer, both are 14 awg wiring..
Now I figure if I wanted to raise voltage I could put a resistor somewhere on this circuit.
If I wanted to reduce voltage, well, I suspect I'd have to somehow increase voltage on this field circuit.
The current voltage range allowed is 13.7 to 14.9v. Often it chooses 13.7v when the battery is still depleted, other times it chooses 14.9v when the battery is bursting full.
If the ECM voltage regulator is bypassed, the check engine light illuminates.
I'd love to be able to easily bypass it without setting off the Check engine light, and use an adjustable voltage regulator instead.
Nothing would make me happier than a dashboard mounted potentiometer with a 14.7 and 13.6 clearly delineated and a voltage regulator which obeys my desires.
Right now the full range I need is perhaps 14.5v to 13.5v.
My AGM battery recommends 14.46 ABSv at 77f, but it gets 14.7 to 14.9v often when driving. It 'seems' Ok with this. I cannot detect any capacity loss in nearly 200 50% Deep cycles over the last 23 months.
I am considering not getting a house battery at all. This AGM can so easily start my engine depleted to 30% SOC, and can handle such obscene charge currents, I think I can get away with just a feel good 12AH Asian jumper AGM which comes in most jumper packs to parallel if I ever cannot start my engine.
It Should also be stated I am not stressing this. Nothing is broke and going to Leave me stranded. I am only willing to go so far in my Quest for Ideal. More important is to not fry the engine computer trying to trick it/ bypass it entirely when trying to pick my maximum allowed voltage manually.
Honestly I get more irritated seeing 13.7v on a discharged battery when more amps are available, than I do seeing 14.9v on a fully charged one. At 14.9v and fully charged my Ammeter reads +0.0 amps.
Really hoping to better grasp externally regulated alternator Voltage regulation and entice discussion along these lines, as my knowledge is cloudy and lacking in this area. If you are the type you cannot be bothered with any manual approach along these lines, then click the back button and move on to some other thread, please.
On a related note, My recently replaced reman'd lifetime warranty alternator can produce 20 more amps at hot idle than my previous one could, but does not seem to produce as much as the previous at higher rpm, even with a battery depleted enough to still be well below absorption voltage. I've not gotten it above about 78 amps where as my previous one, when still healthy, could do almost 110amps into a depleted battery at ~3150rpm cold.
I am not always happy with the maximum voltage it chooses to allow.
My Field wires, One sees Z1 voltage( mopar) basically 13.7 to 14.9v vehicle system voltage, the other goes right to my Engine computer, both are 14 awg wiring..
Now I figure if I wanted to raise voltage I could put a resistor somewhere on this circuit.
If I wanted to reduce voltage, well, I suspect I'd have to somehow increase voltage on this field circuit.
The current voltage range allowed is 13.7 to 14.9v. Often it chooses 13.7v when the battery is still depleted, other times it chooses 14.9v when the battery is bursting full.
If the ECM voltage regulator is bypassed, the check engine light illuminates.
I'd love to be able to easily bypass it without setting off the Check engine light, and use an adjustable voltage regulator instead.
Nothing would make me happier than a dashboard mounted potentiometer with a 14.7 and 13.6 clearly delineated and a voltage regulator which obeys my desires.
Right now the full range I need is perhaps 14.5v to 13.5v.
My AGM battery recommends 14.46 ABSv at 77f, but it gets 14.7 to 14.9v often when driving. It 'seems' Ok with this. I cannot detect any capacity loss in nearly 200 50% Deep cycles over the last 23 months.
I am considering not getting a house battery at all. This AGM can so easily start my engine depleted to 30% SOC, and can handle such obscene charge currents, I think I can get away with just a feel good 12AH Asian jumper AGM which comes in most jumper packs to parallel if I ever cannot start my engine.
It Should also be stated I am not stressing this. Nothing is broke and going to Leave me stranded. I am only willing to go so far in my Quest for Ideal. More important is to not fry the engine computer trying to trick it/ bypass it entirely when trying to pick my maximum allowed voltage manually.
Honestly I get more irritated seeing 13.7v on a discharged battery when more amps are available, than I do seeing 14.9v on a fully charged one. At 14.9v and fully charged my Ammeter reads +0.0 amps.
Really hoping to better grasp externally regulated alternator Voltage regulation and entice discussion along these lines, as my knowledge is cloudy and lacking in this area. If you are the type you cannot be bothered with any manual approach along these lines, then click the back button and move on to some other thread, please.
On a related note, My recently replaced reman'd lifetime warranty alternator can produce 20 more amps at hot idle than my previous one could, but does not seem to produce as much as the previous at higher rpm, even with a battery depleted enough to still be well below absorption voltage. I've not gotten it above about 78 amps where as my previous one, when still healthy, could do almost 110amps into a depleted battery at ~3150rpm cold.
