travelnutz wrote:The Aisin trans is assembled 30 miles down I-65 from me. In an Aisin plant. They even have US born, American educated engineers working there.
DUH!
Where are Ram Aisin Transmissions made and who owns them? Aisin Transmissions not the rest of the drive train! Toyota Seiki!
www.dieselhub.com/trans/aisin-as69rc.html
One of many and in black and white print and very clear!
Cummins12V98 wrote:Well I have totally different opinion as to why they don't.
So yes IMHO if GM could post SAE towing numbers in the 30K plus arena they sure would.
Cummins12V98 wrote:
" I'm toying with the idea of ordering a new 2017 as my forever truck"
I would advise waiting til 2019, new truck same 6.7 but ALL emissions will be downstream of the engine and will no doubt blow the others away in the real world of towing.
4x4ord wrote:ShinerBock wrote:4x4ord wrote:
If you don't want to drive like a "jackass teenager" why did you tamper with your truck?
Because I wanted to and it is my truck, but if you must know I custom tune or modify all of my vehicles to fit my preferences. I like a more sensitive throttle like the old cable driven throttle used to be instead of the laggy drive by wire systems of today. I like my truck to shift later in the rpms(no sooner than 1,400) in order to keep the engine from lugging instead of the it shifting too soon like most do now to conserve fuel. I like my transmission to shift quickly and firmly instead of the smooth and slow shift. I like having the ability to always keep my exhaust brake in the on or auto position instead of it turning off every time I shut off and restart the truck. I like having more power and torque in the rpms that I drive in(below 2,000) instead of the higher rpms that I usually don't. I wanted better timing for better fuel economy. There are more reasons, but it all boils down to me customizing my truck to my preferences instead of driving a generic vehicle made for everyone.
I have a Kenworth that has a check engine light on...I guess it has an emissions related problem. I've wrestled with the idea of deleting it to "fix" all future emissions related problems. I think in my case it makes more sense to spend $1000 fixing it than it does to spend 5k deleting it. I just thought you might have a way of justifying the tuning idea that made sense.
ShinerBock wrote:4x4ord wrote:
If you don't want to drive like a "jackass teenager" why did you tamper with your truck?
Because I wanted to and it is my truck, but if you must know I custom tune or modify all of my vehicles to fit my preferences. I like a more sensitive throttle like the old cable driven throttle used to be instead of the laggy drive by wire systems of today. I like my truck to shift later in the rpms(no sooner than 1,400) in order to keep the engine from lugging instead of the it shifting too soon like most do now to conserve fuel. I like my transmission to shift quickly and firmly instead of the smooth and slow shift. I like having the ability to always keep my exhaust brake in the on or auto position instead of it turning off every time I shut off and restart the truck. I like having more power and torque in the rpms that I drive in(below 2,000) instead of the higher rpms that I usually don't. I wanted better timing for better fuel economy. There are more reasons, but it all boils down to me customizing my truck to my preferences instead of driving a generic vehicle made for everyone.
Dadoffourgirls wrote:RCMAN46 wrote:transamz9 wrote:ShinerBock wrote:
At least 930 lb-ft? Meh... I am sitting at 950 lb-ft at the wheels in my 2014 CTD, and that is just the the light tow tune.
Do you have the Aisan transmission? I've heard that they are having trouble tuning the Aisan trucks because it is on its own controller. I've heard it shifts funny with power added?
Here is possibly a major reason the GM Duramax and Allison does so well.
The Allison was designed with the Duramax and the controllers talk to each other. Also the GM engineers probably found with the Duramax and Allison combination the 3.73 gear gave the best performance for a wide variety of towing conditions including the Ike Gauntlet.
I did a spreadsheet comparison with a 4.1 vs 3.73 for the Duramax and the 3.73 would give the best results at 40 and 50 mph.
At 60mph the choice would be the 4.1.
Are you implying that the engineers designed to the test?
