Trailer Brakes,, Direct Link or Tekonsha P3 or ??

brulaz wrote:

carringb wrote:

...
Also, I plan on upgrading to dis brakes with ABS (to also address the above issues), which effectively requires the DirecLink.

You can do this ??

And why does it require DirectLink? (or an IBC?)
It would be a separate ABS system, independent from the truck's, no?

carringb wrote:

...
Also, I plan on upgrading to dis brakes with ABS (to also address the above issues), which effectively requires the DirecLink.

Gdetrailer wrote:
RCMAN writes “So you are an expert on the functionality of the P3 but have never used one!”

:R

Boy, you sure told me off.. NOT.

You don't have a Direct Connect controller so how can YOU be an "expert" on the functionality of anything other than your inertia controller?

Unlike you and many others I READ AND STUDY the manual BEFORE BUYING and make up my own mind instead of relying totally on questionable advice given on forums..

PER THE P3 MANUAL..

Tekonsha p3 manual

HERE

"The Boost button was designed to allow a more aggressive setting for your trailer brakes and is available in three levels
B1, B2, B3. Each incremental boost setting increases the sensitivity of the P3’s inertial sensor, enhancing the participation of the trailer brakes during a braking event


For example:
With the boost off,

During a braking event, the power to the brakes starts out at zero and increases with deceleration.

With the boost on level 1,

B1,

during a braking event, the power automatically starts out at approximately 13% of the power setting and increases
with deceleration.

With the boost on level 2,

B2, or with the boost on level 3 ,B3 ,
During a braking event, the power automatically starts out at approximately 25% of the power setting and increases with deceleration.

Some cases\ where you might want to use the boost button:
•
You like the trailer braking to ‘LEAD’ the tow vehicle’s braking
• Towing a full vs. empty trailer
• Degraded brake performance (most electric brakes require manual adjustment”

So, you have a choice of:

0%

13%

25%

Output when INITIALLY stepping on the brake..

That is NOT “proportional” in any way shape or form and in fact is no different than what a time based controller does.

Time based controllers in fact do the same thing.. When you hit the brake they apply a FIXED INITIAL OUTPUT to the brakes..

The difference from time based to inertial controller is with time based after your preset time adjustment then they ramp up to full output over time.. Inertial controller only ramps up for the amount of deceleration which is sensed..

When you let off the brake they turn off immediately (P3 ALSO does the same)..

Neither a time base controller or any inertial controller will taper off the output when the brake light goes out so you go from output to NOTHING very quickly. This allows your trailer brakes to break free faster than your tow vehicle brakes and creates a bump from the hitch slack being taken up.

Do this in stop and go traffic and the result is continual bumping and banging..

Then depending on conditions, weight of your trailer and even stop and go traffic you MUST decide what “boost” setting “applies” to your needs.. See the “chart”, do you have that chart memorized or did you paste that chart to your dash?.. That is HOKEY at best.



Then if you have “boost” on and wish to backup you need to remember to turn it off while backing up??? Really?

How a controller handles initial brake and even how it removes the output when you let up on the brake makes a huge difference in how smooth the brakes feel.

After only one trip with a time based controller and getting slammed/banged at each stop light I wanted no parts of any more hokey adjustments.

I purposely bought a controller that if I want more aggressive feel I simply turn up the output gain, if I want less aggressive feel I simply turn down the output gain..

Pretty darn simple and easy.. No charts to memorize, no need to remember to turn on/off or change settings..

I tow more than one trailer.. I have a TT and a flatbed utility trailer. The flatbed trailer can weight 2300 empty and as much as 10K loaded and anywhere in between.. That would require constant fussing with boost and gain settings on a P3 each time the load changed..

With my direct connect controllers I simply turn gain up or down ONCE the first time I connect the trailer and I have never needed to touch the gain at all after that..

RCMAN.. Have YOU tried any controller other than your P3?

I have.

In fact learned towing in my Dads pickup which was equipped with most likely the best ever controller.. A old school Kelsey-Hayes which you tapped into the hydraulic line at the MC and ran a steel line to the controller.. It is a direct connect controller and the feel was spot on reliable, worked everytime with no need to make continual adjustments for differences in speed or conditions like highway driving or stop and go traffic.

Even my Dad tried a Inertial controller (not a P3 since the P3 was not out at that time), he only towed one time with a inertial controller and promptly connected the Kelsey-Hayes back up. He said he just couldn’t get the inertial controller to work as nice as the Kelsey-Hayes when towing his 38ft 5ver.. He gave away the inertial controller .

I have a brother who has a inertia controller, he actually likes my Dad’s Kelsey-Hayes better than his setup (borrows Dad’s truck a lot..).

I realize you have bought into the illusions that a P3 is “perfect” or “best” based on other opinions plus the PRICE POINT..

I hate to burst your bubble but there ARE “better” controllers, they just cost more than what you are willing to spend (the Jordan Ultima 2020 when it was available was only $10 more than a P3 and folks like you had a hissy fit that $10 more was way too much).

To me, I am not into the smoke and mirrors routine of a inertia controller and I personally feel going to a P3 would be like taking a step backwards so I am more than willing to pop a bit more for a controller which is more integrated than a controller using just the brake light switch and some tom foolery illusions (pay no attention to the man behind the curtain..).

RCMAN, I would highly recommend you read AND study the Direclink manual before you start spouting off BS about how much better a P3 is..

DIRECLINK MANUAL

RCMAN, I hope you never buy a new vehicle with IBC, it will have you eating your words and constantly kicking yourself for believing a P3 is the “best”..

My Roadtrek wrote:

carl2591 wrote:
So i am trying to decide between these two, or more, brake controllers for my truck a 2003 F-250 crew cab 2wd, 7.3L, with tow package.

I was reading other threads and someone was talking about the Direct link controller. I like the fact it plugs into the OBD port to get info from the truck but also bummed as i have an OBD plug in device for the Torque app to moniter HPOP pressure, IPR cycle etc which i need that port...

You can buy an OBD splitter Y cable. Amazon has them for $8

carl2591 wrote:
So i am trying to decide between these two, or more, brake controllers for my truck a 2003 F-250 crew cab 2wd, 7.3L, with tow package.

I was reading other threads and someone was talking about the Direct link controller. I like the fact it plugs into the OBD port to get info from the truck but also bummed as i have an OBD plug in device for the Torque app to moniter HPOP pressure, IPR cycle etc which i need that port...