My 100w portable solar setup
I built a 2x50 watt folding pair of panels. Many photos below.
These panels from ML Solar
I took the advice of Don the Pianotuna and used loose-pin hinges. I had to put each half in the vise and tap the loops with a block of wood to bend them off center, so they would stay out of the way between the two panels. Astute observers might notice the extra holes drilled in the frames, because first I tried the hinges as they came, and the panels would not sit straight.
The loose pin hinges allow me to stow the panels separately, which helps in my particular storage situation for a goofy reason not worth mentioning.
I used 50' of 12-2 low voltage landscape cable. It is sun-resistant. I cut it in half, and the 25' will get me to a spot on any side of the camper. The next 25' might be needed to find sun. I might invest in another 50' roll too. The voltage drop is 3% per 25 feet.
I used Anderson Power Pole connectors, on the panels and the wiring. For legs, I drilled 7/8" holes in the panel frames, and attach 1/2" conduit connectors in the holes, holding the legs. Simple to unscrew and remove. If the holes get wallowed out, I'll rivet a piece of sheet steel on for a tougher mount. The legs in the photo don't show it, but they will have feet with holes for tent pegs. Just flatten the end of the conduit and bend the flat piece so it lies flat on the ground. I also have a longer set of legs to tilt the panels at about 45º. I will be adding an eye bolt on each lower side of the panel set, also for tent stakes. It will also be a place to attach bungee cords over to the long legs, because the longer legs amplify the slack in my attachment method.
So far I've seen peak amps of just over 6. That's maxed out, though.
OK, time for photos:
I did some work at the camper end of things too. Battery access is through a bread-loaf sized door. The battery sits in a cradle underneath the RV, alongside the van frame. I added a second cradle and battery under there. Both batteries have to be installed and removed from below the van (same as stock).
I used a PVC conduit LB elbow to house a switch for the B.I.R.D (later), a voltmeter with a switch, and Anderson power pole connectors on top going To and From a Morningstar 20 amp PWM controller. Then there is a cable pair with the PP connectors going to the battery (fused). I can plug the solar panel wire into the To port, and the battery cable into the From port. I bought a Turnigy Watt Meter, and installed PP connectors on it. So I can insert it between the battery and From ports, and measure my solar. Also, obviously I can bypass the controller if I want to for some reason. Yes, it's a lot of connections, but a big part of this for me is the learning and the hobby aspect. So this setup lets me measure and also try different things pretty easily.
I've made up PP ends for the HF charger, made a 2 in 1 pigtail so I could run the HF along with the solar, and next I'm going to do something with my B&D 40a charger. I have to use bigger ends for its cables, but I've already made a big (75a) PP to small PP 8 gauge short pigtail to allow me to hook it to the camper. (The small PP's are rated to 45 amps, and Anderson says they are good for more.)
Installing the stuff by the battery was like building a ship in a bottle, even with the battery removed. Seriously, it looks simple but it was a lot of work to install the mounting pieces, the shield and mount for the controller, etc. Working on my back, I felt like I owned a Corvair again. :) OK, photos:
Oh, yeah, the BIRD. The Intellitec BIRD is a bi-directional relay system that provides charging for either the house or chassis battery if it senses charging on the other battery, provided some conditions are met. It's fine and dandy, but if I want to charge ONLY the house batteries, I can't. Not without bypassing the BIRD. Which is what that switch does.
These panels from ML Solar
I took the advice of Don the Pianotuna and used loose-pin hinges. I had to put each half in the vise and tap the loops with a block of wood to bend them off center, so they would stay out of the way between the two panels. Astute observers might notice the extra holes drilled in the frames, because first I tried the hinges as they came, and the panels would not sit straight.
The loose pin hinges allow me to stow the panels separately, which helps in my particular storage situation for a goofy reason not worth mentioning.
I used 50' of 12-2 low voltage landscape cable. It is sun-resistant. I cut it in half, and the 25' will get me to a spot on any side of the camper. The next 25' might be needed to find sun. I might invest in another 50' roll too. The voltage drop is 3% per 25 feet.
I used Anderson Power Pole connectors, on the panels and the wiring. For legs, I drilled 7/8" holes in the panel frames, and attach 1/2" conduit connectors in the holes, holding the legs. Simple to unscrew and remove. If the holes get wallowed out, I'll rivet a piece of sheet steel on for a tougher mount. The legs in the photo don't show it, but they will have feet with holes for tent pegs. Just flatten the end of the conduit and bend the flat piece so it lies flat on the ground. I also have a longer set of legs to tilt the panels at about 45º. I will be adding an eye bolt on each lower side of the panel set, also for tent stakes. It will also be a place to attach bungee cords over to the long legs, because the longer legs amplify the slack in my attachment method.
So far I've seen peak amps of just over 6. That's maxed out, though.
OK, time for photos:
I did some work at the camper end of things too. Battery access is through a bread-loaf sized door. The battery sits in a cradle underneath the RV, alongside the van frame. I added a second cradle and battery under there. Both batteries have to be installed and removed from below the van (same as stock).
I used a PVC conduit LB elbow to house a switch for the B.I.R.D (later), a voltmeter with a switch, and Anderson power pole connectors on top going To and From a Morningstar 20 amp PWM controller. Then there is a cable pair with the PP connectors going to the battery (fused). I can plug the solar panel wire into the To port, and the battery cable into the From port. I bought a Turnigy Watt Meter, and installed PP connectors on it. So I can insert it between the battery and From ports, and measure my solar. Also, obviously I can bypass the controller if I want to for some reason. Yes, it's a lot of connections, but a big part of this for me is the learning and the hobby aspect. So this setup lets me measure and also try different things pretty easily.
I've made up PP ends for the HF charger, made a 2 in 1 pigtail so I could run the HF along with the solar, and next I'm going to do something with my B&D 40a charger. I have to use bigger ends for its cables, but I've already made a big (75a) PP to small PP 8 gauge short pigtail to allow me to hook it to the camper. (The small PP's are rated to 45 amps, and Anderson says they are good for more.)
Installing the stuff by the battery was like building a ship in a bottle, even with the battery removed. Seriously, it looks simple but it was a lot of work to install the mounting pieces, the shield and mount for the controller, etc. Working on my back, I felt like I owned a Corvair again. :) OK, photos:
Oh, yeah, the BIRD. The Intellitec BIRD is a bi-directional relay system that provides charging for either the house or chassis battery if it senses charging on the other battery, provided some conditions are met. It's fine and dandy, but if I want to charge ONLY the house batteries, I can't. Not without bypassing the BIRD. Which is what that switch does.
