Anyone check the temperature of their brakes

From my track experience I can tell you that brake fluid will boil. At this point however your pads or shoes will be smoke in in a way that is not condusive better braking. On long downhills slow down and let the ex brake do its thing,gassers use the transmission. You might be 10minutes late, but that's better then a pile of **** at the turn you could not make.

Nancrogers wrote:
I felt rt front sticking and heating up after 10 miles the other day, I pulled over and let it cool down, then no further problems. Brake fluid is has not been changed out since 2013, sometimes it is parked for a month at a time. Thanks!

With the humidity in Florida, the fluid could very well be contaminated. If you have it done make sure they do not just do a bleed of the brake fluid at each caliper. A complete flush takes over two quarts of fluid.

I felt rt front sticking and heating up after 10 miles the other day, I pulled over and let it cool down, then no further problems. Brake fluid is has not been changed out since 2013, sometimes it is parked for a month at a time. Thanks!

Nancrogers wrote:
What can I do if on the road and the brakes stick?

If they ease off when they cool down, it could be contaminated brake fluid that is boiling.
It could also be sticking calipers if it happens often. A good rule of thumb is to flush ALL of the fluid out of your brake system every two years and lubricate the caliper slides regularly.

What can I do if on the road and the brakes stick?

Dale.Traveling wrote:
As long as the left to right temps for an axle are consistent you should be good to go.

The two rear rotors were within about 3 degrees of each other.

tatest wrote:
Measure temperature where? Wheels, hubs, calipers, rotors?

I meant the rotors.

Tinstar wrote:
,,, front measured almost 160 degrees but the back were 280 degrees ,,,

The temps look OK and I would not expect the front to back temps to be the same as you would expect with a car. Front to rear axle weight distribution has a dramatic effect. As long as the left to right temps for an axle are consistent you should be good to go.

Concerning replacing the brake lines, rather than replacing the hard lines replace the flex lines at each front wheel and the one line for the rear axle first. Internal corrosion could occur but it's pretty rare while flex line internal collapses is a bit more common.

Measure temperature where? Wheels, hubs, calipers, rotors?

And what should the temperature be? Disk brake rotors can briefly get up to 600 C when the brakes are being used hard (I've seen them at orange-red, about 1000 C, on road racing courses), but rotors cool quickly without transmitting all that heat to the calipers. Pads, of course, have to be selected to not vaporize or glaze at whatever the maximum rotor temperature.

Calipers should not get above the wet boiling point of the brake fluid, typically 140-155 C (280-310 F).

midasman wrote:
To test for dragging, make 2 or 3 hard brake pedal pushes either at low speed or even stopped. If on level ground, and in gear the coach should start rolling a little when the pedal is released. If it doesn't, the caliper is probably sticking.

I did this test right after changing the calipers and pads and during my trip. The coach starts rolling easily as soon as I take my foot from the pedal. When testing this way, I did not notice any sticking.