I didn't think thoroughly enough about the downfalls of the Chevrolet chases when I bought my last motorhome. I've sure thought enough about it since. The previous owner had disabled the system (I still don't know how) so that it does not/cannot apply the brake. Instead of a functional Auto Park, I got a sticky note on the dash reminding me to disengage the brake before I drove off. After missing that step a few times and getting tired of brake smoke, I build an electronic alarm to remind me to take off the brake when shifting out of park . . . and to apply the brake when shifting back into park. The alarm works perfect, ever time; and now I've got the routine down real good. I wish I'd had the alarm sooner.Now I've go an emergency brake pedal that goes to the floor and a brake that does not hold so good. I'm suspecting that my shoes are toast, so I'm looking at opening the brake up and having a look. Anyone had a go at this? Also, are there parts (such as shoes) available, or should I rely on the local clutch and brake rebuilders? I would really like to see this thing grab really good so I can trust the motorhome to stay put when I've applied the brake.NOTE: Did you see the "Announcement : &bigstar;&bigstar;READ BEFORE POSTING HERE&bigstar;&bigstar;" located at the top of this forum? "Forum Posting Help and Support is reserved for questions on how to post in the forums, signature and photo testing, reporting website or member account issues. Please avoid using Forum Posting Help and Support for RV related questions, as doing so can delay responses to your thread. Instead, create future threads in the RV FORUM which corresponds to the subject of your topic. Thank-you!"

No information on what year or model you have. I had my shop do the parking brake shoes along with a spring kit.I didn't want to do it my self because I had heard about issues. They had no problem on doing it. Parking brake shoes

Moved from Forum Posting Help and Support

There is an adjustment slot on the rear/top of the E brake assembly. Just like the old drum brakes on cars. I suspect an adjustment is all you need.Richard

If your parking brake is adjusted correctly and set correctly you should not be able to easily drive off! One should not need an alarm to remind you!

RLS7201 wrote:There is an adjustment slot on the rear/top of the E brake assembly. Just like the old drum brakes on cars. I suspect an adjustment is all you need.Richard I do mine as Richard describes with a brake adjusting tool, you can also use a big blade screw driver. Chock the front wheels and lift the rear wheels off the ground. There is a star wheel for adjustment inside the slot at the top. Adjust until the rear tires can't be spun by hand. Then test to see if it holds on a hill. If you feel uncomfortable with the rear wheels off the ground try a few turns of the star wheel then see if it holds on a hill release the parking brake and see if it rolls freely down the hill, there will be a little brake scraping noise but it should roll freely. You may have to adjust it several times to get it right. I doubt that two times forgetting to remove the brake will wear your shoes down that much, it is not used like regular brakes that wear when applied.

Chevrolet Auto Park | Good Sam Community

moisheh
Explorer
Oct 14, 2018
THE APB is a big piece of Junk. Adjusting is the worst of your worries. There are some mods that will help but the whole system never worked properly. Brazell's has an air version that would eliminate 95% of the problems. About $1800 plus installation. Some of the APB parts are no longer available. Brazel and a few others have some parts but be prepared to pay dearly. I had the APB lock up on me on I-10 in Tucson in 4 o'clock traffic. Scary. I would never buy a MH with that system again.

Moisheh
wolfe10
Explorer
Oct 13, 2018
10th digit denotes the year. P= 1993
tropical36
Explorer
Oct 13, 2018
wolfe10 wrote:
According to the VIN (16BKP37N4P3307675), the chassis is a 1993.

That you don't see often with the chassis year being the same as the house year and title.
wolfe10
Explorer
Oct 13, 2018
According to the VIN (16BKP37N4P3307675), the chassis is a 1993.
tropical36
Explorer
Oct 13, 2018
Gjac wrote:
With your model year there is also an adjustment on the foot pedal cable, if I remember correctly there is an adjustable clevis pin that attaches to the end of the foot pedal cable and the clevis attaching to the transmission shift mechanism, that can be adjusted also along with the star wheel I previously posted. When you go from park to drive do you hear a hydraulic pump coming on? If so your auto park system is still hooked up. There is a green switch inside the metal box that surrounds the system.Remove the inside plate closest to the drive shaft you will be able to see and access all the components of the system. Remove the electrical connection and see if there is any transmission fluid inside that connection fluid. Also check the fluid level in the reservoir it may me too low. If you post back your findings you will get more help in diagnosing the problem. Good Luck.

Probably a 92 chassis at best, so no self contained system and no steel box with fluid reservoir, so this is most likely a version II and relies on the power boost pump that supplies brake and power steering power. Gonna have that pesky cam sw. as well and not the tranny mounted version, that connects to the shift lever. Once one mounts a momentary bypass button for the cam sw. for when it's needed and usually for reverse, this system is fairly reliable.
jmstromquisst
Explorer
Oct 12, 2018
My VIN: 16BKP37N4P3307675.
As stated in my original post, I do not know why it was disconnected. Without hands-on testing, I cannot say exactly how it was disconnected, nor can I know what is wrong with it. I am a bit leery about the design, I'm convinced it was not one of GM's best ideas. There is also more than one owner who has retrofit the auto park with a linear actuator, which gets rid of the hydraulic cylinder, the RGS, the original pump relay, and off course the pump and reservoir. It eliminates about eight hydraulic leak potentials and greatly simplifies the brake. All this still relies on the drum brake, which is why I insist in giving that a good look ,,, regardless of what else I do. It is nice to know that there are owners out there who have auto parks that they still trust. I also agree with the post that says my foot brake should hold the vehicle well enough so it should be at least obvious it's still on when I attempt to drive away, making the alarm system no essential; but it's never worked that well since I've owned the vehicle.
Gjac
Explorer III
Oct 12, 2018
With your model year there is also an adjustment on the foot pedal cable, if I remember correctly there is an adjustable clevis pin that attaches to the end of the foot pedal cable and the clevis attaching to the transmission shift mechanism, that can be adjusted also along with the star wheel I previously posted. When you go from park to drive do you hear a hydraulic pump coming on? If so your auto park system is still hooked up. There is a green switch inside the metal box that surrounds the system.Remove the inside plate closest to the drive shaft you will be able to see and access all the components of the system. Remove the electrical connection and see if there is any transmission fluid inside that connection fluid. Also check the fluid level in the reservoir it may me too low. If you post back your findings you will get more help in diagnosing the problem. Good Luck.
jmstromquisst
Explorer
Oct 12, 2018
Looking up the title was a good idea.
It's a '93.
The title says it's an 18,000# vehicle.
I definitely do not have the yellow switch on the dash.
tropical36
Explorer
Oct 12, 2018
jmstromquisst wrote:
I think it is a '94.

Do you not have a title?

Also, the chassis manufactured date should be on an exterior side plate, near the entry door. Note that the chassis will most likely be a year older than the house and maybe even more.
tropical36
Explorer
Oct 12, 2018
enblethen wrote:
Should find the weight chart. It should be in a closet or cabinet.
My late 93 does not have the problematic auto park. It could be an early style.
When I put in park, it does apply the drum brake on the transmission. It has the foot pedal for manual operation.
The adjustment is easy like earlier posted about slotted opening on the top of the backing plate. I had the shoes replaced because they were separating between friction material and the steel. There was signs of rust so they replaced the spring assemblies.

If it engages the brake in park or with shutting off the ignition, then it has autopark and most likely version II like the OP. Which was more problematic is up for grabs, but the best was the very last one, that had a disk plate and a hydraulic line, rather than a mech. cable for actuation.

Forum Discussion

Chevrolet Auto Park

About Motorhome Group

Related Content

Chevrolet Auto-Park

auto park

auto park woes

1996 Bounder Auto Park

Auto park brake