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Generator problem 7.5 onan

golfman_1
Explorer
Explorer
When I put full load on gen it cuts off and throws a 33 code. I checked coolant and air filter as per manual both ok . What could be the problem?
2000 Mountain Aire 4093 Double slide DP"the Dreamweaver"

2001 Honda Odyssey


Retired and living life to the max.


See you on the road.


7 REPLIES 7

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
golfman 1 wrote:
Sam, I had the back air, microwave and coffee pot turned on and it ran about ten mins.


Well them it might BE an overheat problem.

Your original post left the impression that it shut down immediately upon the application of a full load.

I suggest that the cooling system needs a thorough inspection and servicing; both the air side and the liquid side.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

Cloud_Dancer
Explorer II
Explorer II
I went through the same routine on my 7.5 Onan. Mine ended up being a partially clogged Onan radiatior. I took it out myself (not a simple job), and took it to a radiator shop that took the tanks off and boiled/rodded the radiator core. There was white mineral deposits clogging up some of the tubes. This complete radiator service solved the problem.
Willie & Betty Sue
Miko & Sparky
2003 41 ft Dutch Star Diesel Pusher/Spartan
Floorplan 4010
Blazer toad & Ranger bassboat

golfman_1
Explorer
Explorer
Sam, I had the back air, microwave and coffee pot turned on and it ran about ten mins. It has around 600hrs on the gen.
Thanks everyone for the help
2000 Mountain Aire 4093 Double slide DP"the Dreamweaver"

2001 Honda Odyssey


Retired and living life to the max.


See you on the road.


FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
Well,
Yeah, you could say I "had" a handle on it. My 7.5QD had the same code back a while ago. Super long story short, I had to replace that coolant temp sensor. Lucky for me, the gen is on a slide out tray. That makes for seriously easier maintenance and repairs to be done. But, that sensor can be a real bear to get out or, it could simply unscrew, just like a spark plug which, it's about the same size as.

Just for info here, the cooling air is drawn in from underneath, in the center front. It's first job is to cool the major electronics that are mounted right up front. Then, it cools the rotor and stator. From there, it turns sideways, and cools the radiator.
From there, it's ducted through what's called the center bulkhead and into the area where it finally cools the exhaust and muffler.
It is then jettisoned out the bottom, towards the rear.

That sensor, if it's your problem, is located in a spot that you can easily see but, not actually get a great bite from a socket or a wrench. I have a whole series of pictures of my generator almost completely torn down, for replacement of that sensor and, the rotor which, had one of its magnets disintegrate and send magnetic shrapnel all over the inside. What a mess.

But, once that sensor was replaced, it's been acting fine.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
golfman 1 wrote:
When I put full load on gen it cuts off and throws a 33 code. I checked coolant and air filter as per manual both ok . What could be the problem?


Sounds like Scott has a handle on this.

It might help to know how quickly it cuts off.....and what you are connecting that you think constitutes a full load.

How many total hours on the gen might be interesting too.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
golfman 1 wrote:
When I put full load on gen it cuts off and throws a 33 code. I checked coolant and air filter as per manual both ok . What could be the problem?


golfman,
Code 33 on many of the 7.5QD Onans is what's labeled an "Overheat" condition. And, in the service and owners manuals, they list possible causes. About 99.99% of which, never are the cause.

1. Plugged cooling air intake
2. Plugged cooling air exhaust
3. Damaged cooling fan

And a few more.


A very large percentage of the time, the actual cause is the "Temp sensor". It's a sensor, located in the lower half of the thermostat housing, in the back (or front, depending on how you look at things) of the engine. Long story short, that sensor can get severely corroded, inside it's pocket in the housing and, cease to send correct signals to the little Kubotas ECM. When that happens, it sends false heating info to that ECM and, the ECM then shuts the engine down, even though it's running at the appropriate temp.

I'm not guaranteeing that this is your issue but, about 80% of the time, it turns out to be it.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Jamboree89
Explorer
Explorer
Debris laying on top of radiator, remove top panel and check for leaves grass, etc.
1998 Monaco Dynasty
Scion Xb
Collin and Alfie the dogs