New Owner of an Used (1990) RV here-What do I need to know?

Water leaks and or water damage are your biggest concern by far. You might start with a seal test to see how many water leaks it currently has. Once you have those under control, then start searching for previous water damage.
Next on the line IMHO would be to have the gas system pressure tested.
Everything else will come.

SirPorkalot wrote:
What are the typical issues/concerns with these models I need to stay in front of?

Welcome to the forum and congrats on yer new to you RV.

Typical issues and concerns for your type of RV is:

1. Water leaks.
2. Roof & window leaks, especially the front forward facing overhead window.
3. Water leaks.
4. Water leak damage behind walls and in sub-flooring.
5. Did I mention, water leaks?
6. Roof damage from lack of annual maintenance.
7. Water leaks.

Good luck.

Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)

Welcome to the forum.
As mentioned, water leaks are probably your biggest enemy. Use Eternabond and Dicor Self Leveling Caulk for your roof repairs and maintenance.

Also, check the age of your tires. RV tires usually age out before they wear out.

Aside from checking for water leaks, were there any maintenance records with the coach ? Do you know when the anti freeze and transmission fluids were flushed/changed? How old are the tires - tread depth isn't as important as age ? Best of luck with your MH.

Suggest you take at least one of the tires to a qualified shop to have them remove the tire from the rim and check the inside as well as the outside. If bad one can assume the others are also. Anything more than about 7 years old should probably be replaced.

donn0128 wrote:
Water leaks and or water damage are your biggest concern by far. You might start with a seal test to see how many water leaks it currently has. Once you have those under control, then start searching for previous water damage.
Next on the line IMHO would be to have the gas system pressure tested.
Everything else will come.

Yes during my search I came to realize most all of these older MHs have issues with leaks.
I drove several hundred miles looking at RVs while it was raining and shortly after heavy rains and inspected/drove about a dozen older Class Cs, most with active (wet) leaks and/or active mold.
We quickly learned to look under any new contact paper, under beds, in hard to access corners, etc..

The one I ended up purchasing did have some water damage in the section above the cab, but it had been fixed by the previous owner who also resealed the roof, windows etc.

While there is not any evidence that I could find of active leaks or mold, I am sure these will crop up.

When you say Gas system pressure test, I assume you are referring to the LP system.
Is this just a simple leak down test or is it more involved?

John

Dick_B wrote:
Suggest you take at least one of the tires to a qualified shop to have them remove the tire from the rim and check the inside as well as the outside. If bad one can assume the others are also. Anything more than about 7 years old should probably be replaced.

That seems to be good advice.
I have read about blow outs on these monsters and going down a mountain is not when I want to find out I have a bad tire.

:E

I will take it to the tire shop and have them inspect all 6 tires and the spare.

John

crickeydog wrote:

SirPorkalot wrote:
What are the typical issues/concerns with these models I need to stay in front of?

Welcome to the forum and congrats on yer new to you RV.

Typical issues and concerns for your type of RV is:

1. Water leaks.
2. Roof & window leaks, especially the front forward facing overhead window.
3. Water leaks.
4. Water leak damage behind walls and in sub-flooring.
5. Did I mention, water leaks?
6. Roof damage from lack of annual maintenance.
7. Water leaks.

Good luck.

Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)

So......

You are saying there may be leaks??

:h

I'll keep my good eye open for any new ones :C

SirPorkalot wrote:


When you say Gas system pressure test, I assume you are referring to the LP system.
Is this just a simple leak down test or is it more involved?

John

Most any dealer can do a pressure test for you for a reasonable charge. You might also call local propane dealers and see if they can do it too. Takes about an hour, they turn everything off and pressureize the system with compressed air and let it sit for about 30 minutes. If the Gage does not go down, no leaks. You really do not want a gas system leaking.

Have brake fluid flushed and replaced to prevent brake fade on grades,Have brake system checked and serviced as needed including replacement of front flex hoses. (flex lines can collapse inside causing sudden pulling in steering)Have all belts and hoses replaced if old/needed, radiator serviced as needed and replace belts and hoses as needed. Change oil in generator and check starting and proper function with roof A/C and microwave oven on. Check proper operation of furnace and water heater, fresh water pump, and total water system. Unfurl, inspect and and stow awning. Consider adding device to prevent unfurling underway. Have all tires inspected for sidewall cracking. Replace tires older than six year old per the date codes regardless of appearance/tread depth. Evaluate condition of house battery(s) and converter/charger. Consider installation of modern converter/charger that keeps batteries charged but not overcharged while plugged in to shore power for extended periods. Check condition of starting battery and replace if needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9245CV-Converter-Charge/dp/B000GANZZ6