Quality Class C 24’ for towing boat

Gjac wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:


One thing to consider is the approach angle launching a boat into the water. You might consider a front tow bar with a ball hitch so you can launch the boat with the front of the motor home facing the water. Launching rearward as is normal, the rear extended overhang of the RV could be a problem on certain boat ramps, causing the boat trailer hitch to go too high in the air before the RV starts down the ramp.

IMO, this is a very good point, not just for towing but for driving in general. Keeping the rear overhang (behind the rear wheels) to a minimum is important to minimize the chances of grounding the trailer hitch which happens when you traverse sharp grade changes. In a Class C, having higher ground clearance, a longer wheelbase, and less rear overhang will minimize the chances of grounding which is surprisingly easy to do. (and it's a little embarrassing if you get stuck)

Chum lee

What 24 ft Class C would meet these requirements?

I don't have a specific example for the OP in this case. My point was that the OP should consider the chassis dimensions, carefully, before deciding on a specific model. For example: My Class A (Ford F53) has a 178" wheelbase, it's 30'-9" long overall and has about an 11' overhang behind the rear wheels. If I used it for towing a boat, IMO, a better choice would have been a 208" wheelbase, 30'-9" long with a shorter rear overhang (+-8.5 feet in my case) As Phil mentions, (under some conditions) the potential to ground the center would be increased, but the safety margin for grounding the rear (in a towing situation) would be improved. Having larger wheels (22.5" instead of 19.5" in my case) would also help improve the ground clearance in a towing situation. I could opt for larger wheels in my Class A, but, I'm not sure a larger wheel option is available in a Class C.

My point being that if you don't understand/think about your limitations/options in advance, making the best buying decision tends to be reduced to nothing more than a lucky guess. It doesn't have to be.

Chum lee

Gjac wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:


One thing to consider is the approach angle launching a boat into the water. You might consider a front tow bar with a ball hitch so you can launch the boat with the front of the motor home facing the water. Launching rearward as is normal, the rear extended overhang of the RV could be a problem on certain boat ramps, causing the boat trailer hitch to go too high in the air before the RV starts down the ramp.

IMO, this is a very good point, not just for towing but for driving in general. Keeping the rear overhang (behind the rear wheels) to a minimum is important to minimize the chances of grounding the trailer hitch which happens when you traverse sharp grade changes. In a Class C, having higher ground clearance, a longer wheelbase, and less rear overhang will minimize the chances of grounding which is surprisingly easy to do. (and it's a little embarrassing if you get stuck)

Chum lee

What 24 ft Class C would meet these requirements?

It looks to me like most of the 23-25 foot Sprinter chassis based Class C motorhomes - for instance - have a longer wheelbase than the Ford/Chevy chassis based 23-25 foot lengths. So if you want to tow a boat with one of those one wouldn't have as many overhang issues.

The downside is for off-highway travel and camping when not towing, a longer wheelbase per any given Class C length will create more of a chance for high-centering on rough roads.

We do tow and (carefully) launch our boat with our 158" wheelbase 24 foot Class C ... and so far have not had any problems.

Chum lee wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:


One thing to consider is the approach angle launching a boat into the water. You might consider a front tow bar with a ball hitch so you can launch the boat with the front of the motor home facing the water. Launching rearward as is normal, the rear extended overhang of the RV could be a problem on certain boat ramps, causing the boat trailer hitch to go too high in the air before the RV starts down the ramp.

IMO, this is a very good point, not just for towing but for driving in general. Keeping the rear overhang (behind the rear wheels) to a minimum is important to minimize the chances of grounding the trailer hitch which happens when you traverse sharp grade changes. In a Class C, having higher ground clearance, a longer wheelbase, and less rear overhang will minimize the chances of grounding which is surprisingly easy to do. (and it's a little embarrassing if you get stuck)

Chum lee

What 24 ft Class C would meet these requirements?

ron.dittmer wrote:


One thing to consider is the approach angle launching a boat into the water. You might consider a front tow bar with a ball hitch so you can launch the boat with the front of the motor home facing the water. Launching rearward as is normal, the rear extended overhang of the RV could be a problem on certain boat ramps, causing the boat trailer hitch to go too high in the air before the RV starts down the ramp.

IMO, this is a very good point, not just for towing but for driving in general. Keeping the rear overhang (behind the rear wheels) to a minimum is important to minimize the chances of grounding the trailer hitch which happens when you traverse sharp grade changes. In a Class C, having higher ground clearance, a longer wheelbase, and less rear overhang will minimize the chances of grounding which is surprisingly easy to do. (and it's a little embarrassing if you get stuck)

Chum lee

We are very happy with our Winnebago Minnie Winnie 22M towing our 19ft bay boat. We towed with previous 32ft Gulfstream class C and it worked great, too. But I’ve come to like the shorter MH.

IAMICHABOD wrote:
The Jayco Redhawk would be a good choice if it would fit your needs,there is a few options in floorplans

It also comes on a Chevy Chassis which would give you a better ride,more room inside and you will get a tad bit better mileage among other things.

I like the Redhawk because it has a full fiberglass cap over the entire cab overhand. I may be wrong, but I like the idea of having no seams on the front edge of cab overhang. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that having no exposed seams to any driven water as you drive down the road in rainy weather is a good thing.

Also, there are some other class C's that at least have a partial cap that covers the front seams. Those would be acceptable to me.

Towing anything including a boat that weighs 3500 pounds should not be an issue with any DRW motor home including an E350 Ford and 3500 Chevy, as long as the tongue weight is under 500 pounds. For at least 12 years now, motor home hitches have a rating of 5000 pounds, and most recently increased to 7500 pounds.

One thing to consider is the approach angle launching a boat into the water. You might consider a front tow bar with a ball hitch so you can launch the boat with the front of the motor home facing the water. Launching rearward as is normal, the rear extended overhang of the RV could be a problem on certain boat ramps, causing the boat trailer hitch to go too high in the air before the RV starts down the ramp.

60” wide bed, secondary sleeping area. Not a big fan of the Sprinters/ Mercedes platforms.

24 ft bumper to bumper , 2350LE Sunseeker , F450, full QB 60x80 in the rear corner and a full QB 60x90 in the cabover, dry bath and large water tanks. The U-shaped dinette can sit 4. If you rotate the pedestal table if gives you more room.
The freshwater tank is under the QB with its weight supported by the floor allowing full water to be carried.

This model has a full spare tire and a full large pass-thru storage area.

7500# tow rating plus you will roll down the road very much under the 14,500 GVWR . I roll at 12,500 - 12,700 and I tow 3000# cargo trailer. I hardly feel the trailer back there. At 58 mph I get 9.0-9.5 mpg. at 65 mph, I get 8.0-8.5 mpg.
My 2018 Sunseeker has a limited slip rear 4.56, which is nice to haul a boat up a ramp. I have towed boats with it.

The Jayco Redhawk would be a good choice if it would fit your needs,there is a few options in floorplans

It also comes on a Chevy Chassis which would give you a better ride,more room inside and you will get a tad bit better mileage among other things.

PartyOf Five wrote:
Quality is very subjective and platforms cater to various needs. Can you add more requirements? Nexus and Winnebago and always well-rated here.

60” wide bed, secondary sleeping area. Not a big fan of the Sprinters/ Mercedes platforms.