Water in Cabover!

Man that sucks! If you can get it home, I would do the pressure/soap test. Close all the windows and doors good and tight, and rig up a leaf blower in one of the windows. This puts positive pressure inside the coach. Then start with soap bubbles in a spray bottle and go around the outside and spray every possible joint, light, roof hatch, etc. Where you find bubbles, you have leaks.
Take your time and seal each one.
Hope the damage isn't too bad and you can dry it all out.
Good Luck!!!

Get a pressure test ($100.00) from a dealer that will perform it and let you watch...JMO

Frequently it is the clearance lights that leak. Try resealing them

Look at the roof where it joins the cab and also around the front molding
on the cab-over. Also check the top clearance lights at the gaskets and
all windows.

It is also a good time to look for any soft paneling and cab-over flooring.


Good luck. Hope it turn out to be minor.

I just performed a pressure test yesterday. We used a high 7000 cfm blower door system designed for energy audits of residential and commercial buildings. So, I thought all of my marker lights were sealed because "they looked like they were". 3 on the rear were leaking and 1 in front. Also had bubbles coming from my left front seam at cab over. i have tried different ways to look for air/water seepage in my rig and the blower door was the only thing that truly worked. I am removing all of my original marker lights, cleaning the old sealant with acetone and installing all new LED lights. I am using no sag dicor for mine. After i fix the front seam and install all new lights we will test again. Leaks are very hard to find unless you use the right equipment.

Thanks guys! I am going to check marker lights and seams tomorrow. The flooring doesnt have any soft spots and the walls feel fine except 1 spot of very corner. I assume thats where it sits until it made its way in.

If I reseal the seams do I need to get old caulk/sealant off or just seal over it?

Dawghouse92 wrote:
Thanks guys! I am going to check marker lights and seams tomorrow. The flooring doesnt have any soft spots and the walls feel fine except 1 spot of very corner. I assume thats where it sits until it made its way in.

If I reseal the seams do I need to get old caulk/sealant off or just seal over it?

You absolutely have to remove all of the old sealer and residue if it is to be done correctly. I have had good luck with acetone

Explorer1016 wrote:

Dawghouse92 wrote:
Thanks guys! I am going to check marker lights and seams tomorrow. The flooring doesnt have any soft spots and the walls feel fine except 1 spot of very corner. I assume thats where it sits until it made its way in.

If I reseal the seams do I need to get old caulk/sealant off or just seal over it?

You absolutely have to remove all of the old sealer and residue if it is to be done correctly. I have had good luck with acetone

is acetone harmful to tpo or epdm roofs? a heat gun may help get old stuff off. use dicor

I have used acetone on several of my rubber roof membranes with great results. Have never caused damage but cleans very nice and removes old adhesive residue. That is my equipment, yours could be different. Test an area first then proceed.

One more important note;
Do not use any type of household caulk or silicone. Even if it product states it stays flexible. It will become hard, then brittle then dry out from sun and heat and crack and then you have new leaks.