Now have my latest toy, a modified PowerMax PM3-55 for the 5er.
I have it wired to the inverter next to it in the front cargo bay all near the batteries.
It does not do the usual "stages" anymore when it has been modified for voltage adjustment. It does do the first two stages. It just stays at the set voltage.
So your charging profile is to bring the batts up from 12.x to say 14.8 (pick any number your batts like) and then it stays at 14.8 forever till you lower it to a suitable float voltage. So you have to do that yourself unless you want to Float them at 14.8 ๐
I marked a couple voltages by the knob. You need to do that ahead of time, because when connected up, the volt meter will show battery voltage, and when charging, that will be lower than your knob setting until the battery voltage gets up to that.
It is something like the ones Randy sells at bestconverters.com but in this case I got it from Errin at PowerMax (who will make up a unit "to order" so to speak. You have to get his price from him and for shipping etc. ) Probably easier to get one of Randy's plus the three instead of two year warranty he offers, don't know.
This is a sort of junior edition of the 100amper I got a while back. I hope to be able to run both together for 155 amps powered by my Honda 3000, which should max out the 3000. That will do a 50-90 on my four 6s in two hours, matching the morning 9-11am gen time window at the BC provincial parks when I do any recharging needed.
I have it wired to the inverter next to it in the front cargo bay all near the batteries.
It does not do the usual "stages" anymore when it has been modified for voltage adjustment. It does do the first two stages. It just stays at the set voltage.
So your charging profile is to bring the batts up from 12.x to say 14.8 (pick any number your batts like) and then it stays at 14.8 forever till you lower it to a suitable float voltage. So you have to do that yourself unless you want to Float them at 14.8 ๐
I marked a couple voltages by the knob. You need to do that ahead of time, because when connected up, the volt meter will show battery voltage, and when charging, that will be lower than your knob setting until the battery voltage gets up to that.
It is something like the ones Randy sells at bestconverters.com but in this case I got it from Errin at PowerMax (who will make up a unit "to order" so to speak. You have to get his price from him and for shipping etc. ) Probably easier to get one of Randy's plus the three instead of two year warranty he offers, don't know.
This is a sort of junior edition of the 100amper I got a while back. I hope to be able to run both together for 155 amps powered by my Honda 3000, which should max out the 3000. That will do a 50-90 on my four 6s in two hours, matching the morning 9-11am gen time window at the BC provincial parks when I do any recharging needed.
I have a set of #4 cu jumper cables I may sacrifice. Cut them off a few feet from one end and use it that way. Those clamps should more than suffice and hopefully there'll be no problem getting the set screws to tighten down securely.
Only other thing, I was also planning on including one of these:
Not sure what the AWG is they are using, but it sure doesn't look like 4. May have to come up with a better way, possibly using a shunt.
Only other thing, I was also planning on including one of these:
Not sure what the AWG is they are using, but it sure doesn't look like 4. May have to come up with a better way, possibly using a shunt.
For best results with the 60 use #4 cu wire, not too long. As a portable, the wires need serious clamps. Clamps come with amps ratings. I like the heavy parrot style.
I used the chassis ground lug for a strain relief as shown here on my 100 amper with heavy wires (#2 cu-al). The set screw terminals can't seem to hold stranded wire very well, especially the silky cu-al kind. Actually, if you had those metal adaptors on the wire ends that fit into set- screw holes, then the set- screws could grab them tight enough so you wouldn't need the strain relief.
I used the chassis ground lug for a strain relief as shown here on my 100 amper with heavy wires (#2 cu-al). The set screw terminals can't seem to hold stranded wire very well, especially the silky cu-al kind. Actually, if you had those metal adaptors on the wire ends that fit into set- screw holes, then the set- screws could grab them tight enough so you wouldn't need the strain relief.
