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Lost power to HWH Leveling Jack Control Board 200 series

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer





Hi all, I recently took my 1995 Thor Residency to a shop and they accidentally disconnected the positive 12v lead to my HWH leveling jack Control board (200 series w manual joystick)

I need help in figuring out where to reconnect as I can't find the owner's manual or any detailed wiring schematics for my motorhome.

As you can see in the pictures above, the orphan red wire with a male spade is the positive lead wire to the control board. I determined this by testing with a multimeter for conductivity.

I suspect the wire may have been disconnected from the beige colored fuse block, but I'm hesitant to think that because I don't see any female fuse taps for the male spade to connect to. I only see two fuses with male fuse taps meant for incoming female spades.

Is this fuse block the likely place for the orphan positive wire? Is there another place I should be looking behind the dashboard? I've rumaged around a bit and couldn't locate any open female terminals for the orphan positive male spade behind the dashboard.

Is there a way to bypass and go direct to another part of the chain in the case I can't find the right place?

Thanks all.

1995 ford f53 (460) chassis.
12 REPLIES 12

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer
I'm only getting 11.9 volts to the fuse block.

I just installed a new battery about a month ago along with a new alternator. The alternator is charging at 14.4 volts with engine running.

The battery reads 12.6 volts at the posts.

Im losing voltage somewhere in the line.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Thorshegoes wrote:
Hi Doug, I made sure ribbon connectors are secured. Think it might be a faulty control board?


No, as much as I hate to say this. It is probably a GROUND(Negative) wire issue. HWH runs the grounds for the complete system to the Hydraulic Pump. You will see various WHITE wires connected to one of the 2 mount bolts that mount the pump to the steel mount frame. Make sure those white wires are all installed on that one bolt and that that Bolt is TIGHT. BTW, 11.9 volts is NOT good. You should have at minimum 12.6 to 12.9 volts. This indicates marginal battery, especially not fully charged. What service did you have done? Doug

PS will leave post because it has good info for someone else

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer
I doubt it's my parking break sensor. Maybe the solenoid down at the pump?

Nevermind, see pic. Power is back to control board! I didn't properly engage the tube fuse (see grey head which illustrates housing must be tightened).




Thanks to all for your help. Couldn't have done it without you.

Ray

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer
Hi Doug, I made sure ribbon connectors are secured. Think it might be a faulty control board?

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Remove the 4 screws that hold the control board. There is a Ribbon cable connection on the back of that board. Odds are it just came unplugged. Doug

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, here's what I did today.

1. Tested for an open slot that received 12 volts from ACC.
2. Connected male spade to open slot.
3. Tested voltage at positive lead to control board. Read approx 12 volts.
4. Tested tube fuse. Fuse is good.
5. Removed and secured ribbon connectors. Ribbons are secured.

Still no power to control board in either ACC or with engine running.



Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all for your help. I'm full timing with 2 toddlers and my wife so it's been tough making some time to troubleshoot this. I will make some time tomorrow to apply all of your insights and get back to you on the results.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Look to the right of the yellow 20 amp fuse. THAT is one of the many open female spades on a Ford Fuse block Those open spades are powered by one of the fuses on that fuse block. Just test which one has power when key is ON. Doug

Thorshegoes
Explorer
Explorer


Thanks for your replies all. I have some direction now.

Just for clarification, on the backside of the control board face is a 5 amp tube fuse. That is the wire which I tested for conductivity to the orphan wire in my opening post.

I will test an open slot on the fuse block for 12 volts when ignition is on. When I find that, how do I connect the male spade? Do I need a fuse with a female tap? Or is there a way to secure the spade with the fuse?

Thanks.

Don_s_Lock
Explorer
Explorer
There is a fuse inside the 200 lever box, check it out that wire mite be nothing.
Don
2016 Ford Focus
2013 Georgetown 335

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
You really need a Volt meter or 12 volt test light. YES, there are various OPEN female spades on that fuse block. HWH, what you want is a 12 volt circuit that has power in Ignition from the key switch. Most HWH are connected to the Ignition side ONLY on Joystick systems. Doug

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
You need to locate one that is ignition switched. Identify which side of a vacant one is positive. Use test light or voltmeter.
I personally do not like doing in this manner but it does work!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker