Hi all - I'm hoping someone can help me out. I bought a 2014 Rockwood Roo 19 a few weeks ago, and I'm having some electrical issues. At first, I hooked up to shore power from my house (running on 20 amp breakers with a heavy duty extension cord), and it kept on tripping the breaker after 30 minutes or less.I also bought a 3500 watt inverter generator, as we're planning to do some boondocking camping, and tried it last night and encountered some issues - which is no good as we're planning to take it out tonight for the weekend. I start the inverter up and plug it into the camper - and it will show that almost nothing is used. Once I turn on the AC, it runs fine for 30-45 minutes, showing around 14 amps being used -- but then the generator jumps and shows that the camper is needing 25 amps -- (which is the max for the inverter) for no apparent reason - and will trip the 120 volt circuit breaker on the generator if I don't turn off the AC. What's really odd is that once I turn the AC off, it shows that there's now 12 or so amps that the camper is using -- though there's absolutely nothing in the camper turned on, and the battery is disconnected. Definitely would appreciate anyone's advice. I've searched for answers and haven't been able to find anything - except that maybe there's an issue w/ the AC? But that wouldn't explain the issue where there's still a draw after I turn it off. Thank you in advance -

I would bet on electric side of water heater being on.

20 amp lines will have a hard time running an RV a/c. Especially starting and can supposedly damage the a/c eventually. So running that maxes out the power supply and running anything else significant will trip the breaker. You need a 30 amp line to run that a/c

Chris Bryant wrote:I would bet on electric side of water heater being on.X2Call me if you wish

Hmmm, I been running my 13500 ac for almost two decades plugged into the outlet in the garage. Matter of fact it has been running for a week as I type. :h

OP says the battery is disconnected; so the electric element of the refrigerator is also on line unless the refer is off. Also the power converter is also on line. 20 amps will generally carry an A/C but nothing else.

Newbie Electrical Issue - Advice Needed Please | Good Sam Community

garyemunson
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2019
X2 on fridge and/or water heater causing the issue. At home, using an extension cord is always a bad idea unless you have an industrial 12 gauge one. Often cords sold as "Heavy Duty" only means they are big around. See if wire size is stamped into the cord. 14g is only good for 15 amps so you are pretty close to limit already with one of those.
time2roll
Nomad
Sep 27, 2019
brows827 wrote:
And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?
Controls water heater electric element only.
You can still have hot water using propane which is probably controlled inside with an illuminated switch.
wnjj
Explorer II
Sep 27, 2019
brows827 wrote:
And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?

Correct. It's only for the 120V heating element on the water heater. I've never actually turned ours on in the 13 years we've had our camper. We're usually not on hookups and if we were I wouldn't want to use 12A before running anything else.

You also want to never have it on when the water is drained or the element will go poof. Some of those switches have a hole for a cotter pin to lock it "off" when drained.
brows827
Explorer
Sep 27, 2019
wnjj wrote:
Depending upon the water heater model, there may be a little switch in the outside compartment that turns on/off the AC element. The switch inside may only be for gas operation. That’s how ours is.

From what I found online, they use 12A on electric which is exactly what you said you have unexplained.

Search Google images for “suburban water heater outside switch”.

You're a genius! Went outside and found the heater compartment. This looks to be likely what was happening.

Thank you! And everyone!

And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?
MrWizard
Moderator
Sep 27, 2019
re: power converter online: I tried switching the circuit breaker for the converter to off, but that shut off a bunch of stuff. How should I handle shutting it off?

Most things in the TT need 12v , either from the battery or the converter/charger
Fridge controls, lp sensor, lights, water pump, Gauges, water heater control, furnace/heater
Battery should be connected unless RV is in storage without shore power,
You turn off converter with no battery, yes everything is going to stop working
once the battery has reached full charge
The converter will use very little 120v power, to maintain the battery
wnjj
Explorer II
Sep 27, 2019
brows827 wrote:
These are great responses - I can't thank yall enough for your responsiveness/willingness to help. It's frustrating how little info there is in manuals on this stuff.

I won't be home until this afternoon - but I will check the water heater switch near it (or if I can't find that, will look for the breaker) - that may be part of what was causing the issue, as I have never turned the interior switch for it on - which is why the hot water was surprising. It would make sense that may have been a contributor or the cause (would be really nice if that's all it is), since it seems to intermittently jump on after a while.

I'll also check the voltage in the rig and post my findings.

If you never turned on the water heater and yet you have hot water, I'm sure that's what is causing it and likely nothing else is wrong.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Sep 27, 2019
Look at your AC panel in the rig. Does it have any additional unused punch outs?
A/C breakers should have their own dedicated load. The air conditioner and nothing else
Same for the converter. The fact that you said "A bunch of other things shut off" when the breaker A/C breaker is opened proves this
What kind of protection does a high amp breaker offer smaller loads? NONE
You could have the A/C off and a short on the "other" circuits and it will not may, WILL cause a fire
Are other rigs like this? Designed by Doctor Kevorkian?
wing_zealot
Explorer
Sep 27, 2019
If you turn off the circuit breaker to the converter and "that shut off a bunch of stuff", then:
1. your battery is dead, or
2. the disconnect switch on the battery is turned off, or
3. the battery cable(s) are disconnected.
Any of those scenarios will mean the converter is under load and more than likely your 12 amp draw; and causing your overload issues.
brows827
Explorer
Sep 27, 2019
These are great responses - I can't thank yall enough for your responsiveness/willingness to help. It's frustrating how little info there is in manuals on this stuff.

I won't be home until this afternoon - but I will check the water heater switch near it (or if I can't find that, will look for the breaker) - that may be part of what was causing the issue, as I have never turned the interior switch for it on - which is why the hot water was surprising. It would make sense that may have been a contributor or the cause (would be really nice if that's all it is), since it seems to intermittently jump on after a while.

I'll also check the voltage in the rig and post my findings.
RKW
Explorer
Sep 27, 2019
What is the voltage from the generator? If it's low, than low voltage equals high current (amps). Check the voltage at an AC outlet in the RV.

You got some good responses in this thread. Most of them are encouraging you to perform load management. That's the most obvious and likely problem. Once you are absolutely sure nothing else is contributing to the amp spike, you need to consider the AC unit itself has a problem.

Check out THIS thread of a forum member with a similar problem.