No gas to hot water

I replaced the valve. Every thing is good now.

Thanks for the advice.

amdriven2liv wrote:
Yes it is a Suburban. Will cleaning it help the solenoid?

No, cleaning will not help. When the solenoid coil goes open it must be replaced. You might be able to replace just the coil if you can find one in a RV scrap yard. Otherwise the whole valve assembly will be the only part you can buy at an RV parts store.

Get a friend who knows how to use an Ohm Meter confirm a coil is open before you proceed down this path.

Yes it is a Suburban. Will cleaning it help the solenoid?

If this is a Suburban Water Heater it is very common for one of the two solenoid coils to fail open. As I recall they each measure about 40 Ohms, at least I know they are both the same resistance when intact.

I can hear the gas valve solenoid clicking on, then shutting off... I cannot smell any propane.

You have good 12V DC as evidenced by the sparking sound.......that means 12V DC fuse is good and that the 12V DC set of t-stats are good.

Gas valve solenoids get 12V DC for 6-8 seconds while Spark Electrode is firing.

IF no Main Flame occurs (and is proven) during that time the DC is dropped to gas valve.


Several attempts can be necessary if propane has not been used recently.


But you need to check a couple things.

Do you hear the gas valve solenoids CLICK.......should be able to feel them CLICK when energized by DC?

You can test by measuring DC Voltage (Red to Black)



Can you SMELL any propane when Spark Electrode when it is firing?
Main gas orifice could be obstructed (Need to remove burner tube then unscrew orifice and soak in alcohol to clean----then blow out with air)

If gas is flowing then Spark Electrode although sparking may NOT be positioned correctly...1/8" gap and directly in path of gas flow