Norcold 2118 problems?

E.crowder wrote:
I have a norcold 2118, What should the temperature be at the condenser fins for refrigerator to operate properly. With button thermostat bypassed I am running at 130 deg F.

I have NEVER had to factor in the Condensor temp.
1. In 99% of installs you cannot get access to the Condensor to take a measurement
2. The button Tstat just activates the rear cooling fans.
3. The purpose of the condenser is to REMOVE the heat. The air flows up from bottom and thru the Condensor fins and removes the heat and flows out the roof. Now, correct install is critical. You must make sure ALL the upward flow of air goes THRU the fins and cannot go between the back side of the fins and the sidewall of the RV. Doug

I have a norcold 2118, What should the temperature be at the condenser fins for refrigerator to operate properly. With button thermostat bypassed I am running at 130 deg F.

mroe67 wrote:
I have a Norcold 8801 as well. Unit level, evap fans working, condenser fans cycle on and off as heat rises in condenser area. Nothing blocking condenser vent shaft. Granted I have a side vent unit. But you would think if Norcold knew there was an issue, they would have a recall. Thermister in proper place, doors seal good as well as center flap. Still can't get it below 40, freezer is fine. Dealer says when they "checked it. It was at temp. Although they didn't say what the temp was or what all they checked. Not sure what else to check. Ready to contact RV manufacture or Norcold.

OK what is an 8801???
1. INSTALL issues have nothing to do with Norcold. All Norcold does is supply the refer with the INSTALL parameters. It is up to the RV maker to install to spec.
2. How old is the RV/refer?

I have a Norcold 8801 as well. Unit level, evap fans working, condenser fans cycle on and off as heat rises in condenser area. Nothing blocking condenser vent shaft. Granted I have a side vent unit. But you would think if Norcold knew there was an issue, they would have a recall. Thermister in proper place, doors seal good as well as center flap. Still can't get it below 40, freezer is fine. Dealer says when they "checked it. It was at temp. Although they didn't say what the temp was or what all they checked. Not sure what else to check. Ready to contact RV manufacture or Norcold.

freewayrandy wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

freewayrandy wrote:
All fans are working, fridge in on a solid wall, flap is closed. Mobile tech was just here, thinks I have another bad cooling unit.

Not likely. IF all parameters are correct, then either the tech did not install the CU correctly or there is another issue on the refer. I ALWAYS lean towards the rear ventilation and the baffles that are or are not installed correctly. I would also lean towards the roof cut out not aligned to the refer or some type of foam has pushed back and partially blocked the upper roof vent flow. I have seen insulation and foam push back and partially block the free air flow at the roof vent cut outs. Doug

Unit has side wall vent and it is clear.

Then THAT is probably the issue. That is why I asked if in a slide room. YOUR install is the same as a slide room install. With the upper door removed, can you take a Pic looking straight in (not down) and post it. When you have NO ROOF VENT, getting the hot air out and away is critical. Especially on Norcold large 4 door refers. The fans Norcold installs will not do a good job of exhausting the hot air out and thru that upper door. It also depends on WHERE the upper Condenser fins are located in relation to the top of that door. That is why I would like a pic. I always install an extra 12 volt fan just inside that upper door blowing out to force the hot air out. Usually the OEM factory will approve that. Norcold will not, because IF the rear of the cabionet and doors are installed to Norcold installation specs, that fan is not needed. rarely do ANY OEM's build the cabinet to Norcold specs with the required baffles and shims. What I would do here if your unit was in, I would just set a 120 small fan at the upper door(door removed), blowing out and would wire the 120 elements hot all the time for a 24 hour test. IF the refer works, ( I bet it will), then ventilation is the problem. Doug

dougrainer wrote:

freewayrandy wrote:
All fans are working, fridge in on a solid wall, flap is closed. Mobile tech was just here, thinks I have another bad cooling unit.

Not likely. IF all parameters are correct, then either the tech did not install the CU correctly or there is another issue on the refer. I ALWAYS lean towards the rear ventilation and the baffles that are or are not installed correctly. I would also lean towards the roof cut out not aligned to the refer or some type of foam has pushed back and partially blocked the upper roof vent flow. I have seen insulation and foam push back and partially block the free air flow at the roof vent cut outs. Doug

Unit has side wall vent and it is clear.

freewayrandy wrote:
All fans are working, fridge in on a solid wall, flap is closed. Mobile tech was just here, thinks I have another bad cooling unit.

Not likely. IF all parameters are correct, then either the tech did not install the CU correctly or there is another issue on the refer. I ALWAYS lean towards the rear ventilation and the baffles that are or are not installed correctly. I would also lean towards the roof cut out not aligned to the refer or some type of foam has pushed back and partially blocked the upper roof vent flow. I have seen insulation and foam push back and partially block the free air flow at the roof vent cut outs. Doug

All fans are working, fridge in on a solid wall, flap is closed. Mobile tech was just here, thinks I have another bad cooling unit.

Make sure the left door center flips closed.

SidecarFlip wrote:
Sounds pretty good to me for an absorbtion fridge

47 degrees is good?? Do not think so and is unacceptable.