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Steve92004's avatar
Steve92004
Explorer
May 12, 2017

Replacing my Converter/Charger - Help

Hi Guys/Gals
I have a 25' Weekend Warrior toy hauler and last week in Baja my my Iota DSL-30 converter/charger stopped working
I bought a PowerMax PM4 100A converter/charger to replace it
I was thinking about just putting it in the same spot as the old converter/charger but I started reading around and most said to move it closer to the battery.
It got kind of confusing on how to do that, they said to run power from the breaker that supplies the converter to the new location and use the existing wires to run the power back to the fuse box
I don't get that part
I'm also going to be replacing my one 12v Deep Cycle with two 6 Volt deep cycle batteries, that part makes sense to me
Could somebody help clarify the moving of the converter or if it's just ok to replace the old one in the same place
Thanks!

Here's a picture of what I have, sorry for the multimeter in the way, I took the photo when I was trouble shooting the problem

  • beemerphile1's avatar
    beemerphile1
    Explorer
    May 12, 2017
    You should be fine utilizing the original location. Any gain from moving it would be minimal if you have large cables.

    What size cables does it use? My WW came from the factory with 4 gauge from batteries to converter.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    May 12, 2017
    PM4 is well known to drop to trickle charge at about 3/4 full. Probably even less with 100 amps into just two batteries. Fine if plugged in but not so good on generator unless it runs all day. Possibly you purchased a manually controlled PM4?

    Since 100 amps is probably too much for the existing circuit you may as well mount it close to the battery with #4 or better 12v wire.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 12, 2017
    You are replacing a 30 amp converter (single 13.6v unless you had the IQ4) with a three stage 100 amp converter but only getting two 6s. Two 6s can accept about 75 amps to advantage, 100 is too much, but would be ok with a bigger battery bank.

    The 100 amper is borderline for needing a 20a 120v circuit but will work on a 15 but maxes it.

    You don't have to use the same 120v circuit as the old converter at the new location. Any circuit will do--but as above, with nothing else on it running at the same time as that 100 amper going full out at 14.6v. With just two 6s it wont be doing 100amps at 14.6 excpt at first, then it will taper amps quickly and drop to 13.6 too. But you could pop a breaker right at first if something else is on.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 12, 2017
    Steve92004 wrote:
    So should I pick up a smaller converter/charger?


    If you can return the 100 and get a 60 instead that would make more sense IMO. (Get the new PM3- LK model too, not the older PM3 or PM4 type--the LK has an adjustable voltage, which is great for matching to your battery charging specs)

    Another thing is what generator do you run the converter with off-grid? You could run your old 30 amper with a small gen, but a 55 or 60 amper will need a 2000w (1600 continuous)--a 1000 is not enough. I need my Honda 3000 to run my PowerMax 100 doing 100/14.8
  • Steve92004's avatar
    Steve92004
    Explorer
    May 12, 2017
    BFL13 wrote:
    Steve92004 wrote:
    So should I pick up a smaller converter/charger?


    If you can return the 100 and get a 60 instead that would make more sense IMO. (Get the new PM3- LK model too, not the older PM3 or PM4 type--the LK has an adjustable voltage, which is great for matching to your battery charging specs)

    Another thing is what generator do you run the converter with off-grid? You could run your old 30 amper with a small gen, but a 55 or 60 amper will need a 2000w (1600 continuous)--a 1000 is not enough. I need my Honda 3000 to run my PowerMax 100 doing 100/14.8


    The generator is a built in Onan 4000 Microquiet
  • Steve92004's avatar
    Steve92004
    Explorer
    May 12, 2017
    Referring to my original question of moving the converter forward...
    When they said use the original wires for running back to the DC panel are they referring to the original battery charging wires since I would be putting larger short cables from the new location to the batteries?
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 12, 2017
    Yes. The original battery to converter wires (which also did converter to battery) are sufficient gauge to run the rig's 12v from the battery when not on shore power/converter, so they stay as is.

    The new converter can run the rig's 12v by being on the battery which is connected to the fuse panel, so all is good.

    Use #4 short wire (under three feet each wire) from the 60 amp converter to the battery to be sure of getting your 60 amps. (if that is the size converter you get)
  • Steve92004's avatar
    Steve92004
    Explorer
    May 12, 2017
    BFL13 wrote:
    Yes. The original battery to converter wires (which also did converter to battery) are sufficient gauge to run the rig's 12v from the battery when not on shore power/converter, so they stay as is.

    The new converter can run the rig's 12v by being on the battery which is connected to the fuse panel, so all is good.

    Use #4 short wire (under three feet each wire) from the 60 amp converter to the battery to be sure of getting your 60 amps. (if that is the size converter you get)


    Thanks!
    If I try the 100 amp first in that configuration will it mess anything up?
    Reviews are saying it only puts out 80 amps tested and works fine on 15 amp circuits

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