battery charging

Yes, just two 12vdc wires from the solenoid. However, the emergency start button has to have a wire somewhere. I'll try to digest the pictures. Thanks.

probably different from coachman, but these pics may help you guys figure some things together

this is the wiring a fellow r-vision owner put together for our RV


this is the electronic unit


this is a user manual
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB8QFjAAahUKEwj_y_DrvurGAhVXEpIKHWRBCQY&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.intellitec.com%2Fassets%2Fpdf%2F5301087new3.pdf&ei=VFKtVf_RB9ekyATkgqUw&usg=AFQjCNGWGaaYV7Ip3jd6lki6CWCdd7coIg&bvm=bv.98197061,d.aWw

How many wires are coming out of the solenoid in all? Just two?

One of the two 12VDC wires at the Battery control solenoid goes to the generator panel and the other goes in the direction of the converter. These two devices provide charging to the coach batteries. There does not seem to be anything heading toward the engine. I wonder if the engine charge feature was omitted for some reason although the owner's manual says it is included. Maybe a wire of a different color makes it to the engine from one of the other chargers. A wiring schematic would be helpful. Any further suggestions? I've sure learned a lot so far and thank you all.

Dave22 wrote:
Pushing the booster button with the engine on increases the voltage out of the isolator to 14.xx from 12.79. Voltages were measured at the isolator.

Then that makes me think there is no voltage from the ignition to trigger the isolator relay. There should be some kind of lighter gauge wire from the ignition to the isolater that shows 12+ volts when the switch is turned on. It could be picking up that ignition signal from any fused ignition-on circuit. That wire would be well worth tracing back and see why power isn't present on it when ign is switched on. The booster button is essentially bypassing that trigger.

I'm going on assumption you have something like this:

Dave22 wrote:
Pushing the booster button with the engine on increases the voltage out of the isolator to 14.xx from 12.79. Voltages were measured at the isolator.

The relay/solenoid/isolator often exhibits a high resistance due to burnt contacts before it fails completely.

Your readings indicate that it's contacts aren't making a good connection.

If you search around on here a bit you might find other threads that talk about how to "fix" that solenoid......if you are into doing things like that. In my book, a new one is a better solution.

Pushing the booster button with the engine on increases the voltage out of the isolator to 14.xx from 12.79. Voltages were measured at the isolator.

If you push the booster switch with engine on what happens to voltage out of isolator?

From what I'm reading so far it sounds like defective isolator (provided you are measuring out voltage right at isolator). But it also could be no trigger from ign to isolator.

Booster switch enabled locating the solenoid isolator. Pressing the booster sw retracted the step. With engine off, volt into isolator = 12.80, out of iso = 12.47. With engine running and charge voltage of 14.9, volt into iso = 14.9, out of iso = 12.79. I think there may be more than one problem. The battery disconnect is one of those momentary contact switches and the position of the switch did not effect the above readings. I still do not know the resolution to this problem and I hope this helps. Thanks to you all.

First look to be sure your battery disconnect switch is ON.

When mine did that it indeed was the "battery relay" solenoid and was a relatively inexpensive fix.....even at CW.